Detailing Process

B

boxer

New member
Well, prior to this spring, detailing my car included a wash, then claybar, then wax.



I now have a PC, and want to move up a level. I have a silver golf with minor swirls. Does my process sound about right?



Wash

Clay

polish with SSR2 on a LC orange pad (maybe SSR 2.5 depending on how the SSR2 works)

Polish with SSR1 on a LC polishing pad

Apply Klasse AIO on a LC finishing Pad

Apply Klasse SG (do I use the PC for this, or do this by hand?)

Finish off with NXT Tech Wax.



My questions for now are, do I apply the SG with the PC using a finishing pad, or do I apply it by hand? I would assume that I can get thinner coats using the PC.

Also, how long should I wait after applying the SG before applying the NXT wax?



On a related note, I might layer the SG, but I have read that at least a 12 hour curing period is needed. My car sits outside, and it bound to get pollen on it. Can I just use a QD to take off the pollen then put on another layer of SG, or will the QD prevent the SG from bonding well?



Any input is greatly appreciated:xyxthumbs
 
I've read so many different things about SG curing time. Some people wait 12 hours, and some feel you can wipe on wipe off just like with AIO. I personally would apply the SG by hand because you can control it better. I have yet to find a way to apply AIO by PC, let alone SG by PC. IMO you need to much of the product to prime the pad and avoid running a dry pad across your paint.
 
Tasty said:
I've read so many different things about SG curing time. Some people wait 12 hours, and some feel you can wipe on wipe off just like with AIO. I personally would apply the SG by hand because you can control it better. I have yet to find a way to apply AIO by PC, let alone SG by PC. IMO you need to much of the product to prime the pad and avoid running a dry pad across your paint.
Click to expand...



Very true, I would tell you to apply both AIO and SG by hand. If you layer SG, I would let it cure about 12 hours, no less than 8. While the debate is still fierce over how long (if at all) you should let it cure, you can definitely still WOWO it. There's a difference between the time you apply the product and remove it (which is pretty inconsequential) and the time that you let the product cure (we're talking on a molecular level here, down to the proper cross-linking and such) before you apply another layer while maximizing performance. To be on the safe-side, which I find for myself it works best to take the side of caution, I would wait at least 8 hours, but preferably 12.



Between layers of SG I would use some Sonus Acrylic Spritz. The Spritz is formulated for use with Klasse and will not hinder bonding between layers.
 
Thanks for the tips guys.

So as it stands now I will apply the AIO by hand, the SG by hand, and would like to layer the SG.

Unfortunately, I don't have the Sonus Acrylic Spritz, would a California Duster do the job of removing the pollen that falls on the car overnight?



Thanks for the help guys!:xyxthumbs
 
Instead of starting a new thread, I figured it would be good to just bump this one with my new question:D



I am about to head out and get to work now that after 2 weeks of rain, the sun it almost shining! Last question before I start is about pad prep.

For the SSR Polishes, should I dampen the pads before applying the polishes? I don't thing so, but better safe than sorry.



What about dampening the pads when I am using the AIO or KSG?



Thanks a bunch guys!:bow
 
boxer said:
Well, prior to this spring, detailing my car included a wash, then claybar, then wax.



I now have a PC, and want to move up a level. I have a silver golf with minor swirls. Does my process sound about right?
Click to expand...





What part of the process is causing the minor swirls?
 
boxer said:
What about dampening the pads when I am using the AIO or KSG?
Click to expand...



Can't help with the SSRs, but AIO- dampen with water, SG- dry pad.



Oh, and I wouldn't top the SG with NXT, I'd just layer SG until you're tired of doing it and then consider a carnauba topper.



I'd wash it before every coat of SG, no CCD/QDing for me, too great a risk of marring.



And watch that wash routine so you don't mar the paint again ;)
 
Thanks for the tips guys!:up



The marring and swirl marks are definitly from my wash method. I accept full blame.

Unfortunately, I live in an apt. the car sits outside 24/7, and to wash it, I have to bring it to one of those want wash places.

No matter how much you try to avoid it, swirls and marring are going to happen at those places.:(

The best I can do is to try to minimize the problem, and have a good system to replenish the paint on a semi-regular basis!



Living in an apt. is part of the reason that I bought a silver car. Once I get into a home, where I can wash it at home, I will get into colors that need more attention, but really shine:xyxthumbs
 
Accumulator said:
Can't help with the SSRs, but AIO- dampen with water, SG- dry pad.



And watch that wash routine so you don't mar the paint again ;)
Click to expand...



I like to moisten the applicator pad (MF) used for the SG with the Sonus Acryic Spritz, it helps reduce the thickness of the layer and applies the SG more evenly.:xyxthumbs
 
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