Detailing process (revised)

GregCavi

GregCavi

Pinnacle Detailing Owner
Hello everyone

I posted not long ago saying i was gonna use ssr3 on my paint and I know that is way to strong. I ordered some #83 now and will be in tommaorw from napa. SO my new process is the below.

-Wash GC
(no clay it was done about a month ago)
-#83 via LC orange cut
-#9 if doesnt remove hazing then HT LC, If hazing still remains HT MC via LC white polishing pad
-VMx2 24 hours between coats? hand applied?
-EXPx? 24 hours between . hand applied?
-TSX3 or so

Is this a reasonable attack plan. The car is my red cavalier. First time removing all the spider webs.

Thanks

Greg
 
I wouldn't ever suggest skipping the clay just because it was done a month ago. Clay should be done on a 'need at the time' basis. I clayed my car and then three days later got hit by some overspray from a steel processing building. Sometimes there is a need to clay more often than others. As long as you are going to do a full detail then it is worth checking. It will only take 10 minutes if the car doesn't really need it that bad.

Anything that doesn't involve swirl removal can generally be used by hand. Because of the speed needed to generate the heat required to break down the abrasives, it is best to use a PC or similar tool to polish the paint. Waxes, sealants and glazes are easy to apply by hand and merely faster to apply by PC. The only thing I use by hand anymore is clay and paste wax.
 
Jngrbrdman said:
I wouldn't ever suggest skipping the clay just because it was done a month ago. Clay should be done on a 'need at the time' basis. I clayed my car and then three days later got hit by some overspray from a steel processing building. Sometimes there is a need to clay more often than others. As long as you are going to do a full detail then it is worth checking. It will only take 10 minutes if the car doesn't really need it that bad.

Anything that doesn't involve swirl removal can generally be used by hand. Because of the speed needed to generate the heat required to break down the abrasives, it is best to use a PC or similar tool to polish the paint. Waxes, sealants and glazes are easy to apply by hand and merely faster to apply by PC. The only thing I use by hand anymore is clay and paste wax.
Click to expand...

Clay it is then. thanks for the tips. So i can use Vm glaze by pc? would i use a polishing or finishing pad for that? I guess im just confused on what to use to apply EXP and VM with. I prefer buffer. SO any further suggestions would be great.

Thanks

Greg
 
GregCavi said:
.......So i can use Vm glaze by pc? would i use a polishing or finishing pad for that? I guess im just confused on what to use to apply EXP and VM with.......
Click to expand...
VM works great by PC with a polish pad. I also like to use the PC to apply EX-P (with a finishing pad), I find I can apply a thinner coat with the PC than by hand.
 
Eliot Ness said:
VM works great by PC with a polish pad. I also like to use the PC to apply EX-P (with a finishing pad), I find I can apply a thinner coat with the PC than by hand.
Click to expand...

I love the thin coats as well just wanted to make sure it was ok.

Thanks

Greg
 
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