Detailing a Harley.. HELP????

godd1000

New member
My friend has a really nice Harley and wants me to detail it for him. I want to because i love detailing but I've never done a bike before. I have just about everything you need to do a professional job on a car or truck and have been at it for about 8 years.



First question: Is there a link that will outline the propper way to do a Harley?



Second question: Can I use automotive products or do i need special products.



Any suggestions would be helpfull. Next year I would like to start my own business and doing bike would help open up for new customers than my regulars now.



Cheers,

Jamie
 
What model? Car products work fine, most bike specific products are just relabeled and overpriced.



The key words are nooks & crannies, lots of tight spots and knuckle busters, especially around wheels. You need to know where not to get water. Lots of electronics. Everything is easier if you can get it immobilized upright or tied down on a lift. Being able to turn the wheels vs having to move the whole bike is a lot easier. Don't sit fiberglass saddlebags on the ground, the bottoms scratch easily. If you're unfamiliar have the owner remove bags & seat. Cast aluminum wheels are a PITA if brake dust and road grime has etched. S100/P21S polishing soap is a good start. Stay away from TAW or S100 Bike Wash full strength, it discolors aluminum. S100 Engine Brightener works well on wrinkle black. Glare Pro Polish, despite it's snake-oil claims works great on chrome exhausts and doesn't appear to burn right off like everything else. Before polishing spokes make sure they're chrome. The OEM spokes are cadmium plated and thin, polish too aggressively and you remove the cadmium. Chrome spokes were an upgrade. No dressings on pegs/footboards, hand grips or tires. Slippery is bad. PB's Natural Look darkens nicely without being slippery.



Most components respond well to auto-type detailing and products, just smaller and tighter and lots of fine hand-work. Figure on a first attempt taking twice as long as you figured. Many Harley finishes are extremely soft, particularly the metal parts on dresser and Softail tanks. It's clear powdercoat vs normal clearcoat. Vivid Black is the worst. While some have gotten swirl and mar-free finishes using M80 by hand others (including me) have tore their hair out trying to get a mar-free finish as some of the softest finishes swirl when you wipe off polish or wax residue. Best way I've found to get around that is remove residue with QD & waffle weave.



TL
 
godd1000 said:
Second question: Can I use automotive products or do i need special products.



I use the same products on bikes that I use on cars. A bike lift really helps. Four inch pads are a must for machine polishing where you can on tanks, fenders, body panels but you'll need to polish by hand in a lot of tight spaces. Never apply tire dressings on motorcycle tires.
 
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