Detailing a 60's vette, seeking advice.

[Japy]

I've used these forums before, done quite a bit of detailing in the past few years. Recently I was offered the chance to detail a 60's stingray Corvette. Naturally I accepted, but I need some opinions before I get to work on it.

The corvette is all original, original leather interior, original paint. It's a T-Top. The paint is red, and its pretty sun faded and dull looking, Its gonna need some rehab thats for sure.

I own and use a Makita Polisher like its a wizards wand. I use poorboys EX/EX-P Sealants, Nattys blue and regular paste carnuba. I used to use meguiars gold class car wash, but that vanished from my storage. The things I need help with:

What clay should I use on this paint? (I wish I had pictures) Its garaged most of the year and doesn't see the rain very often, but as I said its extremely old and dulled paint. I have several polishes and compounds already available, but what kinds of polishes and compounds would you guys recommend along with pad selection for the makita on the paint, since it is original. What kind of car wash should I use? I don't have hard water, I use a mitt and a power washer (gentle pressure nothing extreme).

Sorry if this post is a little scatter brained I'm having one of those days :hmmm:

I've detailed many vehicles with varying degrees of paint-horridness. Including paint fresh out of the paint booth (the painters in the body shop didn't like to polish things very well). I've also polished some pretty old paint but nothing as old as the sixties, thats why I'm asking for the help, I definitely want to make a very good impression for this customer and I'm personally a corvette fan so I want this to come out near perfect.

(Last minute side thought) Should I use any kinds of dressing on the rubber pieces around this vehicle or should I stay away from that kind of stuff based on the age, and should I dress any parts of the engine bay?

Thanks in advance I appreciate any and all suggestions.

 

[JimmyS5600]

Last summer I had a 70 come in,light blue color,original paint also. I ended up useing
Megs. Color X. It came out nice.
Hope this helps

 

[holland_patrick]

Ok

on red I would use PB propolish to knock down the Oxy.. wool if you have it
then i would inspect for marring and the like and work it like normal paint.
it's your choice on LSP

rubber is rubber..I would make sure i did that first and tape things up nicely..

 

[tuscarora dave]

nice job on the T/A. It's good to read this thread because I have a 69 Stingray to do a full detail on as soon as it comes home from the vette hospital. Thanks

 

[CharlesW]

Hopefully Japy received enough information to do his old Corvette without any real problems.

Just a few comments about Corvette detailing.
1. If things are original, leave them original. Don't remove any overspray or crayon markings from any part of the vehicle. It should go without saying that any stickers should be left alone.
2. Be very careful about trying to make anything fit better. They had a lot of misaligned parts when they were new and you may get into a real problem if you try to improve anything. It might be worth noting some of the flaws with the owner before you start so he doesn't think you are responsible.
3. If the Corvette is older than 1981, it will have single stage paint on it unless it has been repainted. Some 81's, (St, Louis built), will be single stage, some will be BC/CC, (Bowling Green built). After 1982, they were BC/CC. If they have been repainted, who knows. If the owner tells you he has a 1983, send him somewhere else.
4. Visit with the owner to see for sure what he wants and expects. If he is a new owner of the vehicle and wants to make any changes from the original configuration, it might be worth making sure he knows that some of those changes can have a major impact on the value of the car.
5. Rubber is rubber, but remember you may be dealing with 20 to 50 year old rubber. It can be pretty brittle and somewhat fragile. Treat it with care.
6. When washing, one area that causes a lot of problems is the windshield sealing caulk. The old caulking is quite often dried out and allows water to come in around the windshield. If this happens,be sure to (a) dry the interior area that gets wet, (b) tell the owner. Some of these vehicles haven't seen rain or a hose in years. Many owners don't even know they have a problem.

Contrary to popular belief, Corvettes do rust. They have a lot of metal areas that are prone to collect and trap water. Frame rails, door frames, windshield frames, lots of structural parts. If you want to keep them rust free, keep them dry.

FWIW, I drive mine year round and wash it with a hose. What the heck good is a car you can't drive?

 

[Beemerboy]

Ok

on red I would use PB propolish to knock down the Oxy.. wool if you have it
then i would inspect for marring and the like and work it like normal paint.
it's your choice on LSP

rubber is rubber..I would make sure i did that first and tape things up nicely..

Hopefully Japy received enough information to do his old Corvette without any real problems.

Just a few comments about Corvette detailing.
1. If things are original, leave them original. Don't remove any overspray or crayon markings from any part of the vehicle. It should go without saying that any stickers should be left alone.
2. Be very careful about trying to make anything fit better. They had a lot of misaligned parts when they were new and you may get into a real problem if you try to improve anything. It might be worth noting some of the flaws with the owner before you start so he doesn't think you are responsible.
3. If the Corvette is older than 1981, it will have single stage paint on it unless it has been repainted. Some 81's, (St, Louis built), will be single stage, some will be BC/CC, (Bowling Green built). After 1982, they were BC/CC. If they have been repainted, who knows. If the owner tells you he has a 1983, send him somewhere else.
4. Visit with the owner to see for sure what he wants and expects. If he is a new owner of the vehicle and wants to make any changes from the original configuration, it might be worth making sure he knows that some of those changes can have a major impact on the value of the car.
5. Rubber is rubber, but remember you may be dealing with 20 to 50 year old rubber. It can be pretty brittle and somewhat fragile. Treat it with care.
6. When washing, one area that causes a lot of problems is the windshield sealing caulk. The old caulking is quite often dried out and allows water to come in around the windshield. If this happens,be sure to (a) dry the interior area that gets wet, (b) tell the owner. Some of these vehicles haven't seen rain or a hose in years. Many owners don't even know they have a problem.

Contrary to popular belief, Corvettes do rust. They have a lot of metal areas that are prone to collect and trap water. Frame rails, door frames, windshield frames, lots of structural parts. If you want to keep them rust free, keep them dry.

FWIW, I drive mine year round and wash it with a hose. What the heck good is a car you can't drive?

Both Charles and Patrick have offered up stellar advice...single stage paint and working on older American OEM cars is a different duck than the new ones...by all means take pics of this classic!

 

[dr_detail]

Unless it absolutly positivily needs it, I would leave the hose coiled up. Instead wash with wet (not dripping) towels dipped in a bucket (often), followed with drying the area washed imediatly. Single stage paint isn't (IMO) any diffrent in working with than base/ clear except for pads and towels will change color, and the laquer check that single stages may surcome to. CHECK CAREFULLY FOR CHECKING BEFORE APPLYING ANY WAX. It will fill in the minute cracks and be almost imposible to remove. Spend the time and the few extra bucks to mask all edges and trim, yes almost all parts are available as reproduction, but tape is cheap -- much cheaper than replacing and or re-painting. The painted swooping lines of a stingray can and tend to be very thin on the fender peaks and one oops -- well just use the tape (1/4" works great). Don't rush the job -- take your time -- start with the least intrusive polish and work your way up. Whatever you would use on an oxidized clear is safe on SS. As for clay, use what works, I have some purple clay that I like for heavy work, and dark blue or red for medium, and light blue and grey for fine work. With t-tops I'm guessing it's late 60's ('68-'69?) so if you do pressure clean the motor, be sure to remove and blow out (WITH AIR!!) the distributor cap, coil wire ends, and wire ends (boots) and maybe srpay a little WD40 in the cap before putting it all back together. And hey, 60's paint ain't all that old... now if it was a pre-war vehicle, in my book, that would be old paint!! Just remember "it's just another car, with just another paint job... only the owner will kick my ar$$e if I frigg it up so I won't frigg it up...."

Oh, almost forgot, post some pics.... when your done...

Here's a 70 Mustang I worked on last Friday for a show last Sunday...Doug's 70 Boss 302 Factory Race Car