Detailed with Jeffs Werktatt = how do I get more OOOHs

koen_dr

New member
Well, I recently ( 3weeks ago ) completely detailed my car, it took me 1.5 day, so I personally think I did a good and thorough job...



I own a new 2007 C70 D5 convertible, silver metallic paint and dark brown leather interior



I used a complete Jeffs Werkstatt Acrylic kit, boosted with polycharger



Products used exterior:

poorboys wheel cleaner, detail spray, trim restorer and wheel wax

Jeffs Werkstatt Auto body wash

Jeffs Werkstatt Acrylic Jett trigger set

swissvax clay kit

megiuars metal polish

Polycharger H2O and CH2 ( = didn't get a chance to use the CH2 yet )

Rain-X for windows side and rear



Products interior:

Jeffs Werkstatt Satin Protection

swissvax leather kit (= cleaner and protection + all the necesary things = GREAT VALUE)





This is what I did:



Washed wheels with "spray and rinse" from poorboys

Washed car with Auto body wash from Jeff Werkstatt ( with two bucket method )

Clayed car with clay kit and detail spray from swissol/swissvax



Prepared the surface after the claying with acrylic prime from Jeffs, I applied this with a foampad and I did this very thorougly and let it "stand" when I went around the entire car. I took it off with a microfiber. ( important, I boosted the prime with polycharger as described in the manual )



I now polycharged the acrylic jett and did not apply this with the trigger, because I mixed just enough for what I needed to use, so I applied a first coat with a applicator foampad. After I did the entire car, I took it off with a microfiber. It did one second coat exactly like this. After the second coat, I did one none polycharged coat with the trigger system and a microfiber, without "curing" time.



After this I used the Acrylic gloss to finish it off, spraying it on and taking it off straight away with a microfiber.



=> My paint looked amazing, but I personally think it can be a lot slicker, it feels smooth, but not slick...



After this timeconsuming detail, I finally put one coat of wheel wax by poorboys on my rims, which was very hard to remove after the curing. I recently did a second coating with one night curing, but don't really see any difference with before, when I didn't use anything... Any advice on this would be GREAT, because my wheels grab a lot of brake dust... Looking for another go for this subject...





Well, I now ordered a new bottle of acrylic Jett Trigger and Gloss Trigger, because I want to put a few more layeres on top of the existing AJT. I'm going to do this in two weeks from now, and want some advice on how I can make it look SUPER ...



Do I put something on top over the layers of AJT or do I need to do something else??? Can I put a carnauba wax on top of this??? I wan't to spend a little more money over the already purchased products; because I love my car and want it to look the best!



I was thinking about 3 - 5 more thin layers of AJT ( of which some again boosted with polycharger, I still got some left ) and then either gloss, or another wax on top??
 
Did you notice the polycharger to impact the appearance at all. I've never used JW, but I've seen some pics on here and it seems to look AWESOME on silver.
 
You could put some carnuaba on as a topper over the AJ - but, IMO, it is pretty hard to improve over AJ on silver paint.



Also remember that once you put a nuba on - you can't put any more AJ on top without stripping everything off with Prime and starting over. AJ will not bond to a nuba.



I would stick with putting on more AJ/AJT. You can be secure in the knowledge that you are using a product that (if put on a properly prepared vehicle) looks as good on silver as any other product out there. It's also easy to apply and a lot more durable than a nuba.



JW is not the slickest product out there in my experience - but who cares if it looks great and protects your paint. Unless you have a fetish about running your hand along slick paint - who cares about the level of slickness - particularly since AJ/AJT does a great job of repelling dirt/grit in my experience.
 
Milestones said:
You could put some carnuaba on as a topper over the AJ - but, IMO, it is pretty hard to improve over AJ on silver paint.



Also remember that once you put a nuba on - you can't put any more AJ on top without stripping everything off with Prime and starting over. AJ will not bond to a nuba.



I would stick with putting on more AJ/AJT. You can be secure in the knowledge that you are using a product that (if put on a properly prepared vehicle) looks as good on silver as any other product out there. It's also easy to apply and a lot more durable than a nuba.



JW is not the slickest product out there in my experience - but who cares if it looks great and protects your paint. Unless you have a fetish about running your hand along slick paint - who cares about the level of slickness - particularly since AJ/AJT does a great job of repelling dirt/grit in my experience.



You can top AJ with CJ, and then add additional layers of AJ-T on top without having to re-Prime.



RE: slickness; I've found polycharger to improve on slickness when using JW products. I use it in AJ, AJ-T as well as AG. Durability hasn't really been tested since I usually reapply AJ-T after a wash once every month or so.



Dave
 
crew219 said:
You can top AJ with CJ, and then add additional layers of AJ-T on top without having to re-Prime.



RE: slickness; I've found polycharger to improve on slickness when using JW products. I use it in AJ, AJ-T as well as AG. Durability hasn't really been tested since I usually reapply AJ-T after a wash once every month or so.



Dave





I guess that's true but that would seem a really round about way to apply more AJ/AJT - especially since CJ wouldn't add much if anything to silver paint and by many accounts CJ can be a PITA to use.
 
You don't need to put that many layers on in a day.



Next time you wash put another layer of polycharged Acrylic Jett and see then.
 
Acrylic Jett isn't super slick like some products, as you've noted, the finish feels more smooth than slick. However, it will hold that feeling and appearance for a really long time. 6-8 months solid durability with no QDs or other gloss enhancers on my customer's cars.



The one product that I think adds noticable wetness to AJ is Optimum's Opti-Seal and it won't interfere with bonding should you want to use AJ or AJT again over it.
 
i've put on 3 coats of AJT with 1 week interval between coats and have notice significant improvement in slickness and wetness.
 
Seems you may be neglecting prep, I would say to hit it with some 106ff or OP and then prime, and AJ again.



While prime does help prep the surface a little, it is not very much, nothing like a true, dedicated polish.
 
Thanks for all your replies! I will wash up the entire car, and will top up with two new layers of

Acrylic Jett Trigger + polycharger, and I will also polycharge the gloss trigger, but can you point out how many drops should be added to the detail gloss spray? Because I probably best

polycharge the entire bottle?



By the way, any advice on the wheels? I'm looking for a good look and brake dust repellent...
 
Well, one last remark, would you guys suggest to apply it like I did before: I washed the car, using a microfiber to finish of and then let it dry for a little while, when I clean my enterior. I then mix the acrylic jett with polycharger in a mixing bottle, with 2 drops per oz, and then applied it with an applicator foampad instead of the spray and wipe method, described on the bottle... Went around the entire car, let it haze and the took it all back off with a microfiber... repeat this multiple times...



Should I keep doing it this way, or should I use the wipe on - wipe off method???
 
koen_dr said:
Thanks for all your replies! I will wash up the entire car, and will top up with two new layers of

Acrylic Jett Trigger + polycharger, and I will also polycharge the gloss trigger, but can you point out how many drops should be added to the detail gloss spray? Because I probably best

polycharge the entire bottle?



By the way, any advice on the wheels? I'm looking for a good look and brake dust repellent...



I used 1/2 the normal dose for AG.



Dave
 
I can post pics of how she looks now, and I will post pics when I do my work next week... I bought swissvax "autobahn" wheel wax today, can i polycharge this with CH2??
 
Now, with a quick touch up yesterday with Megiuars QD because I'm waiting for my new delivery of AJT and gloss...

Also, with your advice and reading this forum, I also ordered Zaino Z8 from a German company. Will wash my car next week, put some new layers of polycharged Acrylic jet on top and the top it of with gloss. After a couple of hours i will put the Zaino Z8 on top...
 

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koen_dr said:
Because I probably best

polycharge the entire bottle?



By the way, any advice on the wheels? I'm looking for a good look and brake dust repellent...
Its my understanding that polycharged sealants have a short shelf life, a few days perhaps. So wouldn't PC'ing the full bottle be a waste?



Use the same product on you wheels. There's isnt a good brake dust repellent that I've used. Waxing/Sealing wheels just makes it ALOT easier to clean next time.
 
I ordered Swissvax cleaner fluid and Autobahn wheel wax, will have a go with it next week :)



I found a company in Germany that can send me Zaino Z8 by mailorder, is this a good deal to put on top af the Acrylic trigger and gloss?
 
Cactus1 said:
Will the AJT layer over other sealants such as FMJ?



In my understanding, AJT has no cleaning power so it can be layered over any sealant.

Be sure you have given previous layer enough curing time before applying though.:)
 
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