Detail Werkz : 2008 Land Rover LR3 : 4 u Cyclo Lovers

ok so seriously, we all know how on every detail post people have comments about how the paint was "hammered" or looked like it was cleaned with a "Brillo pad"



but seriously.... that was HAMMERED! was it being washed with a brillo pad b4 this? :D



nice turn around. more proof you should have to have a "certified to have this color" card if you want a black car. i'm starting to grow a tad bit tired of people wanting the best "mirror" color without wanting to do the upkeep!
 
Land Rover's clear is really soft from what I have found. But great job, the gloss-it products seem to be getting a lot of attention now.



Brandon
 
Well BHARE.... this thread has made up my mind for me. I was debating between the Cyclo and the Flex. I've have been reading forum after forum and thread after thread about the two, and I keep reading about Back Plate issues with the Flex, but don't ever read anything problem wise about the Cyclo. People keep saying that the Cyclo can't correct like the Flex, but after seeing your work and you saying that you "rushed" it, makes me think that the Cyclo is the way to go for me. Granted I am no pro like yourself, but I think I feel that I can do a fantastic job taking my time on my Black Jeep SRT8. It is by NO MEANS as bad as that LR3 was. Gloss-It and the Cyclo looks like the way to go for me. Question though... maybe I missed it but what pads did you use on the LR3 and would a 2nd coat of the 1 Step take care of the rest? Thanks for any info.... I appreciate it.
 
Outstanding job! I guess the Cyclo is not the antique that people say it is. One question about your wash - you stated 230 degree water? Water boils at 212, or so I thought. Just curious about the affects on the plastic trim. Obviously none. :)
 
HarrisonZ said:
Well BHARE.... this thread has made up my mind for me. I was debating between the Cyclo and the Flex. I've have been reading forum after forum and thread after thread about the two, and I keep reading about Back Plate issues with the Flex, but don't ever read anything problem wise about the Cyclo. People keep saying that the Cyclo can't correct like the Flex, but after seeing your work and you saying that you "rushed" it, makes me think that the Cyclo is the way to go for me. Granted I am no pro like yourself, but I think I feel that I can do a fantastic job taking my time on my Black Jeep SRT8. It is by NO MEANS as bad as that LR3 was. Gloss-It and the Cyclo looks like the way to go for me. Question though... maybe I missed it but what pads did you use on the LR3 and would a 2nd coat of the 1 Step take care of the rest? Thanks for any info.... I appreciate it.
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Had I more time, I could have gone around the vehicle again with the one-step machine polish and just worked each panel longer. I was using the Orange/Orange double sided pads with the optional adapter for the Cyclo in order to use the pads. I like the Cyclo better as it does not kill you in the end of the detail. The Flex likes to walk around the car and takes more control and more concentration esp when working on doors and vertical panel. The Cyclo more or less floats across the panels and you can really lean into it to work out issues in the paint and not worry about it trying to walk away from you like the Flex tends to do.



Yes I know Wade pretty good! I have been explaining to him why to get the Cyclo over the Flex so maybe you can ask him. I am going to ship him my Flex to use for a bit so he can see if he likes it. Price wise both the Cyclo and Flex are very similar to pricing.
 
karburn said:
Outstanding job! I guess the Cyclo is not the antique that people say it is. One question about your wash - you stated 230 degree water? Water boils at 212, or so I thought. Just curious about the affects on the plastic trim. Obviously none. :)
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I have an option to heat up the water up to 250 degrees in the tank. Yes the water is boiling somewhat, but you are talking about 500 or so gallons of water that hot, so it just bubbling a bit, but you don't want to stick your hand into the tank water.



Normally I keep the temp gauge around 220-230. It will be down to around 200 - 150 by the time it goes thru the pump, the filters and comes out of the nozzle. If not careful you can burn yourself on the brass ends next to the nozzle.
 
Yeah Brian.... I think he's a little jealous I got the Cyclo. He said it was a real tough toss up between the two. Hopefully after he sees my job, he'll hook up.
 
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