Detail Steps

B

Bradley

New member
Aloha All



It has been some time since I have put in a trend. Please see the below and provide feedback on my steps to a detail (I do not do engines):



-Spray/rinse wheels and tires

-Wash rims (exterior side), with detail brushes and cloth

-Rinse and clean all exterior plastics

-Spray/rinse outside of vehicle

-Wash vehicle with 100% sheepskin wash mitt and Meguires Gel lubricating soap

-Dry vehicle with waffle-weave micro fiber towels

-Utilizing Clay Magic Detailing Clay (fine grade), Showroom Shine Spray Wax, and micro fiber towels, clay and buff exterior of vehicle (by hand)

-Apply Poorboys SSR2.5 (clear coat safe) polishing/cleaning treatment, and or Griots Machine Polish 3, attempting to remove any visible water spots. Hand foam applicators and or Porter Cable orbital buffer with high-end fine grade pads will be utilized to apply product followed by buffing utilizing numerous micro fiber towels

-Apply 303 Aerospace Protectant to all exterior plastic trim and buff with micro fiber towel. If plastic does not come clean will utilize Mother’s brand “Back to Black� treatment followed by towel buffing

-Apply Klasse All-In-One cleaner/wax with micro fiber hand applicator pad (or German foam applicator) while hand buffing with two micro fiber towels

-Apply Klasse High Gloss Sealant Glaze with micro fiber hand applicator pad while hand buffing with two micro fiber towels (requires 14 hours to cure)

-Clean and utilize Showroom Shine Spray Wax, and micro fiber towels on all door wells, inside edges of rear hatch/trunk, and hood wells

-Detail all rims (exterior side), polish, and use a final coat of Poorboys Wheel Sealant followed by micro fiber buffing

-Treat all rubber tires with Tire Shine Dressing followed by wiping with dry towel

-Clean inside, treat all interior plastics with 303 Aerospace Protectant and buff with micro fiber towel

-Treat all interior carpet stains with Folex liquid carpet spot cleaner

-Wash and scrub all floor mats and hang dry outside (will not be installed until completely dry)

-Clean and treat all interior leather with Malco Leather Conditioner followed by towel buffing

-Wash all interior windows with ammonia free (tint safe), cleaner

-Once exterior treatment cured, wash vehicle with 100% sheepskin wash mitt and Meguires Gel lubricating soap

-Dry vehicle with waffle-weave micro fiber towels

-Apply P21S Carnauba wax with micro fiber applicator followed by buffing with two separate micro fiber towels (let cure for 10 hours)

-Once exterior treatment cured, wash vehicle with 100% sheepskin wash mitt and Meguires Gel lubricating soap

-Dry vehicle with waffle-weave micro fiber towels

-Wash and dry all exterior glass

-Apply P21S Carnauba wax (2nd coat), with micro fiber applicator followed by buffing with two separate micro fiber towels and Porter Cable micro fiber buffing bonnets (let cure for 10 hours)

-Apply Klasse All-In-One to front windshield and buff utilizing ultra fine micro fiber towels
 
Wow..thats quite a detailed list.Just some thoughts...

I am assuming you are doing this now...as in winter months.

I would clay as you wash..ie wash hood, rinse, use soap and clay, rinse again.

I would use your PC for the AIO (windows could be done at same time).

Till spring I would skip the SG and just go with a paste wax. (assuming you are doing this outside)

Unless something is bad with windows they should be cleaned as your wash.

Not sure about why you re-wash after treating tires and tirm.



May be more but I am sure others will chime in.
 
Thanks for the reply



I have in the past clayed while I washed the vehicle making sure that I used a thick gel car soap. I utilize these procedures here in Hawaii so the weather is not a problem. I wash a lot in between steps due to the dust that acumulates during the SG and wax cure times. I read where a lot of detailers take only six hours to detail. It takes me 22-27 hours to complete all of these steps.



Thanks again for the response.
 
You posted this in "Professional Detailers" so I'm summing you are Detailing for a living. My average time is 6 hrs. Fields you are doing like polishing, leather care, carpet cleaning can be an all day job by its self. One thing you have to know is get a project done as fast as you can and get to the other project ASAP but one thing to it is do a good job. Getting your time down just takes experience detailing, more you detail cars for a living the faster and better you get, Its also the products you use too. Try to void neglected cars if you can and try to get in cars that are in the high end class or cars that people take care of. Detailing vary neglected cars cost to much $ for what people are willing to pay so….

Spending time with an experience Detailer or going to detailing seminars is a most, “food for the brain� and well worth it.
 
Clay while washing and skip the SG like mentioned above. I always do the interior first to get it out of the way. I would never ask a customer to keep their car for 24+ hours unless it was for a concours detail or a garage queen.



Time is money so if the process you listed is for a customer I would hope you are getting at least $300 a car.



Lorne
 
I appreciate all the feedback. I may have jumped the gun and put this thread under the incorrect section. I consider myself a hobbyist but a professional detailer said that I was putting too much effort and time in (too detailed). I did a Volvo SUV that the owner stated that they do not wash but once every six months or so. It was stained with red dirt and had paint overspray all over the windows and vehicle exterior. I did the steps that I listed plus an extra clay. I spent approximately 25 hours on it and asked for $200. They were so happy they gave me a $50 tip. I think word is traveling, I have three vehicles scheduled for various weekends next month. I have been in the Navy for almost 23 years but on occasional weekends I like to put in a lot of time and labor on a vehicle!!!! If I have a problem it's good knowing that all of you are out there for advice!!!



Thanks
 
According to the figures you just gave us, you made 10.00 per hour less product used, equipment, insurance cost, etc.......probably end up you made less than minimum wage.
 
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