Hi All -
I'm a NewB here, having been inspired to detail my new-used 2006 Honda by OCDetails' posts on the Honda Pilot forum. I bought the SUV with some deep key-like scratches running the length of the passenger side, around 2 ft from the ground. My intent is to get them looking as good as possible without spending a few thousand on a repaint, and I'm seeking advice.
Photos of scratches loaded on Flickr - HERE
Thus far, I've invested 2 days in experimenting with the Honda "Desert Rock Metallic" (Gold) brush touch-up paint and DupliColor clear brush touch-up, each squeeged into the cracks with a plastic card. Excess was removed from the surface with a fine dress shirt wrapped over the card and moistened with Langka. In various iterations, I've tried mixing the paint with the clear as Langka recommends, but have found layering to produce better results. I've taken one scratch pretty far (see last photo in stream), but am not satisfied with the results because (1) the texture of the brush base color is too different from the spray metallic and (2) the demarcation between the edge of the scratch is too visible through the clear-coat. I understand that Langka discolors some paints but don't think that's the problem, as the touch-up paint is still below the edge of the scratch so I'm not really touching it when cleaning off the excess.
I'd like to do better.
Inspired by BMWBear's post and Brad's work, I'm thinking of buying a Paasch airbrush and trying again. My goal is to better match the texture of the sprayed metallic base coat, and perhaps blend the clear-coat a little better. I'm wondering if I'll be able to get the spray into the keyed crack and perhaps remove the over-spray with squeegee, 2000 grit, or Langka so that the repair doesn't grow in size, then level and overfill with the same clear that Brad used. Final leveling of the clear would be with 2000 grit followed by PC applied polishing compound.
Looking for input from anyone who's done this or can recommend other posts. I'm most interested in how I can best match the texture of the original paint, limit the growth in size of the repair by confining spray of the color to the gouges, and level the final clearcoat.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks for your time and consideration in reading and responding.
khjr
I'm a NewB here, having been inspired to detail my new-used 2006 Honda by OCDetails' posts on the Honda Pilot forum. I bought the SUV with some deep key-like scratches running the length of the passenger side, around 2 ft from the ground. My intent is to get them looking as good as possible without spending a few thousand on a repaint, and I'm seeking advice.
Photos of scratches loaded on Flickr - HERE
Thus far, I've invested 2 days in experimenting with the Honda "Desert Rock Metallic" (Gold) brush touch-up paint and DupliColor clear brush touch-up, each squeeged into the cracks with a plastic card. Excess was removed from the surface with a fine dress shirt wrapped over the card and moistened with Langka. In various iterations, I've tried mixing the paint with the clear as Langka recommends, but have found layering to produce better results. I've taken one scratch pretty far (see last photo in stream), but am not satisfied with the results because (1) the texture of the brush base color is too different from the spray metallic and (2) the demarcation between the edge of the scratch is too visible through the clear-coat. I understand that Langka discolors some paints but don't think that's the problem, as the touch-up paint is still below the edge of the scratch so I'm not really touching it when cleaning off the excess.
I'd like to do better.
Inspired by BMWBear's post and Brad's work, I'm thinking of buying a Paasch airbrush and trying again. My goal is to better match the texture of the sprayed metallic base coat, and perhaps blend the clear-coat a little better. I'm wondering if I'll be able to get the spray into the keyed crack and perhaps remove the over-spray with squeegee, 2000 grit, or Langka so that the repair doesn't grow in size, then level and overfill with the same clear that Brad used. Final leveling of the clear would be with 2000 grit followed by PC applied polishing compound.
Looking for input from anyone who's done this or can recommend other posts. I'm most interested in how I can best match the texture of the original paint, limit the growth in size of the repair by confining spray of the color to the gouges, and level the final clearcoat.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks for your time and consideration in reading and responding.
khjr
) "good luck!" Anything of real value I already posted on that thread you checked out.