Decals on black paint for 2 years +

F

Flexin

New member
Ok. I stripped the vinyl off of Kia Suv for a customer. The SUV is black and has had the vinyl on for about 2 years. So as you can guess this thing has faded around the vinyl. It looks like hell to me. They want me to buff it so I tried some of it but its not looking that good. They are asking me to try wet sanding now. I have done some before and don't mind doing small scratches but a whole SUV is going to piss me off. :furious: Would this even fix it enough to be worth it? I'll try to post some pictues in a few minutes.



James
 
Here are some pictues.



flycow1.JPG




flycow2.JPG




flycow3.JPG




James
 
Scottwax said:
:eek:



Honestly, you'd probably have to charge them more to wetsand and buff it out than it is actually worth.
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Thats what I was thinking. But even if I charged 5X more. Whats 5X0? :doh I'm trying Malco Rejuvenator right now. It seems to be working a bit. I took a few pictures. I'm not sure if you can see it will. Let me resize them.



James
 
Do you have any pictures of the area that you buffed? I'm thinking that it's not so much fading but the difference between paint that has been exposed to the elements and washing for 2 years and paint that hasn't. *I* think that compounding with a rotary and subsequent polishing will work wonders but who am I??
 
SpoiledMan said:
Do you have any pictures of the area that you buffed? I'm thinking that it's not so much fading but the difference between paint that has been exposed to the elements and washing for 2 years and paint that hasn't. *I* think that compounding with a rotary and subsequent polishing will work wonders but who am I??
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I do but it didn't come out all that great. The paint didn't look good after buffing with the rotary. I thought the same thing but was surprised to find out that I wasn't right. I'm trying Malco Rejuvenator right now and that seems to be making some what of a difference. I'm going to do a little more then haul it out in the light and see how its coming.



James
 
SpoiledMan said:
Let's see the pics showing the results so we can suggest further.
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Ok. Keep in mind that these are quick test spots.



Untouched.



test2.JPG




Meguiars Daul Actioni #83



test3.JPG




Malco Rejuvenator



test1.JPG




James
 
I just took it outside to look at the door that I was working on. It is looking better but I still have a lot to do. The Rejuvenator seems to be working plus I tested NXT on an area that I worked and that looks a bit better. I would still rather use a match but I think I might be able to do enough to get it out of my shop.



James
 
First off. :scared: :scared: :scared: Then :hairpull :hairpull :hairpull Now:



I say get some very heavy compound. Get it nice and hazed, but no swirls, and then bring it back with a medium abrasive and then a light finishing abrasive. Then top 'er with a glaze and filler wax.
 
ScubaStevo said:
I say get some very heavy compound. Get it nice and hazed, but no swirls, and then bring it back with a medium abrasive and then a light finishing abrasive. Then top 'er with a glaze and filler wax.
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I tried Tru-GRIT but it didn't do what I had hoped it would.



James
 
Flexin said:
I tried Tru-GRIT but it didn't do what I had hoped it would.



James
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I'm not compleltly sure what Tru-GRIT is, so I can't comment on it. But I'd say, even if you went to a compound like SSR3, or Meguires #84, and work it with a wool or heavy cutting pad, it should definatly cut that out. I've worked on worse, and had no problems with getting it back to life. Not saying it will ever be perfect, thats for sure, but it will be worth it to the customers when they see a vehicle overhauled like that.
 
Anouther thing. If you're going with a super heavy abrasive compound, its pretty much light wetsanding, so I think you should have no problem. But like said above, who am I to say what may or may not work. You have to get there and try it.
 
ScubaStevo said:
I'm not compleltly sure what Tru-GRIT is, so I can't comment on it. But I'd say, even if you went to a compound like SSR3, or Meguires #84, and work it with a wool or heavy cutting pad, it should definatly cut that out. I've worked on worse, and had no problems with getting it back to life. Not saying it will ever be perfect, thats for sure, but it will be worth it to the customers when they see a vehicle overhauled like that.
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Tru-Grit is Malco's toughest product. Kind of like liquid sand paper. Works well when my other stuff doesn't. But its not helping much here. I maybe could have tried longer but didn't. I had this thing so long as it is.



James
 
ScubaStevo said:
Anouther thing. If you're going with a super heavy abrasive compound, its pretty much light wetsanding, so I think you should have no problem. But like said above, who am I to say what may or may not work. You have to get there and try it.
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It always helps to hear ideas. Sometimes you get so crazy on a tough job :hairpull that you can forget something simple. So I listen to everything even if I tried it.



James
 
Flexin said:
It always helps to hear ideas. Sometimes you get so crazy on a tough job :hairpull that you can forget something simple. So I listen to everything even if I tried it.



James
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Have you tried wool? If wool and a heavy compound, which are often "liquid sandpaper", isn't taking it out, then I think you're SOL.
 
ScubaStevo said:
Have you tried wool? If wool and a heavy compound, which are often "liquid sandpaper", isn't taking it out, then I think you're SOL.
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No I used it with a yellow foam pad which is close to what my wool is. I didn't want to get into the work that it takes to remove the marks from the tru-grit wool combo on this one if I could avoid it.



James
 
I thought I would add some more pics.



Me working.



buffing.JPG




You can see the paint condition and the outline of Rosie the Cows behind.



cowass.JPG




Here you can still see the outline if you look hard enough.



cowass1.JPG




Still a work in progress. Light a match.



gettingbetter.JPG




James
 
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