Dealer using 1500 grit wet sanding

If you have good eyes they wont be able to cover it up 100%.



When you get it back inspect the area in all kinds of lighting and angles.
 
My5ABaby said:
Well... yeah... But they can cover up a screw up can't they?



Only sometimes. If the area of the car in question looks dull, foggy or anything like hundreds of thin fine scratches then they screwed it up. It should look new again since it is new right.



Don't freak out too much though, if anythings wrong I'm sure it can get corrected by a real pro detailer at the dealerships expense.
 
My5ABaby said:
Well... yeah... But they can cover up a screw up can't they?



Better bet is to go get your car before they do anything and remove the contaminant yourself... or at the very least have a professional detailer do it. Paying a qualified professional to correct the problem now is much better than paying a body shop to reshoot your clear coat later IMO.
 
JoshVette said:
Only sometimes. If the area of the car in question looks dull, foggy or anything like hundreds of thin fine scratches then they screwed it up. It should look new again since it is new right.



Don't freak out too much though, if anythings wrong I'm sure it can get corrected by a real pro detailer at the dealerships expense.

Thanks, that's what I was looking for. If I'm not happy with the results I'm not going to stop complaining until something changes. I can look up MNAO's # if need be... :p



Dylan06SS said:
Better bet is to go get your car before they do anything and remove the contaminant yourself... or at the very least have a professional detailer do it. Paying a qualified professional to correct the problem now is much better than paying a body shop to reshoot your clear coat later IMO.

I don't know how to remove it myself and I don't have the money to pay a detailer.
 
They have mislead you on numerous occaisions, I would get my car back immediately and save your pennies for a detailer.



If you insist on letting them sand the vehicle, make sure to strip whatever LSP they put on (if any) to ensure that no fillers were used to hide holos etc. If you find something, take pictures and tell them you are taking it to a pro and sending them the bill. Sometimes it helps to go to the regional rep too.
 
JDookie said:
+1



Brake cleaner is some really nasty stuff. I've actually used brake cleaner to purposely remove paint before.



Also, there *are* different types of brake cleaner too. This may have something to do with varying results. I find some cleaners to be extremely strong, and others extremely mild. All I know is that the stuff I get from NAPA is super strong.





Most brake cleaners now days contain toluene and an aliphatic mineral spirit. The older brake cleaners contained a chlorinated solvent like Triehtane 1-1-1.
 
cgage said:
They have mislead you on numerous occaisions, I would get my car back immediately and save your pennies for a detailer.



If you insist on letting them sand the vehicle, make sure to strip whatever LSP they put on (if any) to ensure that no fillers were used to hide holos etc. If you find something, take pictures and tell them you are taking it to a pro and sending them the bill. Sometimes it helps to go to the regional rep too.



I'm not agreeing to let them sand my vehicle. When I called earlier he said they weren't going to do that.



How do I strip LSP?
 
My5ABaby said:
Oh, and he also said to not worry about the 1500 grit and "we also have used 800 grit without hurting the clear coat". :bat



Whoa! .... I don't know of anyone who uses 800 grit except to remove bondo.



Here's what I'd tell the Service Mgr: That you plan to pick up the car and use a paint thickness guage prior to acceptance. Tell him you will measure a new car on the lot and then measure your car. If he is good to his word, there should be no measurement differences.



That might frighten him into re-considering his statements.



Toto
 
Totoland Mach said:
Whoa! .... I don't know of anyone who uses 800 grit except to remove bondo.



Here's what I'd tell the Service Mgr: That you plan to pick up the car and use a paint thickness guage prior to acceptance. Tell him you will measure a new car on the lot and then measure your car. If he is good to his word, there should be no measurement differences.



That might frighten him into re-considering his statements.



Toto

He mentioned something about the 800 grit being used for orange peel. :nixweiss



Where can I get a paint thickness gauge within the next few hours?
 
Alright, to strip your lsp mix rubbing alcohol and water 1:1 in a spray bottle. That will strip off any wax or glaze that they put on your car to mask the scratch marks they will most likely put in it. 800 grit paper to remove orange peel is rediculous, that will strip down to the metal. When you pick up the car make sure it looks like the rest of the car or at least the rest of that panel. Look at it in direct sunlight from different angles and make sure that there is no haziness or swirling after you wipe down the area with the alcohol mix and a soft microfibre. And you can just bluf on the ptg.
 
GTFreddy said:
Alright, to strip your lsp mix rubbing alcohol and water 1:1 in a spray bottle. That will strip off any wax or glaze that they put on your car to mask the scratch marks they will most likely put in it. 800 grit paper to remove orange peel is rediculous, that will strip down to the metal. When you pick up the car make sure it looks like the rest of the car or at least the rest of that panel. Look at it in direct sunlight from different angles and make sure that there is no haziness or swirling after you wipe down the area with the alcohol mix and a soft microfibre. And you can just bluf on the ptg.

Thanks for the tip on the rubbing alcohol/water. Considering my current situation I think it'd be better to mix alcohol (ethanol) and water, 1000:1, and just drink it instead. That'd make it hurt less.



I can only hope their department doesn't blow.
 
Well... I'm off to the dealer after stopping for some rubbing alcohol, drinking alcohol, MF cloths, and a spray bottle.
 
reminds me of a thread where a guy wetsanded the front of his Z06 with 800 grit sandpaper. After suggesting that was a bit too aggressive for the clearcoats sake and that he shouldn't use anything stronger than 1500 grit he acted as if I was the one without a clue.
 
Well I called before I went and Mazda said that their detail shop couldn't get it out so they sent it to a nearby (the hill behind the dealership) body shop. So... I went to the body shop. They were able to get most of it out by buffing but some stuff had to be sanded with 3000 grit. I went and look and it looked fine.



It gives me peace of mind that it's with a company that gets paid to do work as opposed to a grease monkey that gets paid hourly and could care less. At least I think it does...



:confused:



This could of all been avoided if Mazda wasn't stupid enough to park their ****ing cars under trees. We're not talking rocket science here... I'm going to get some pictures of said trees/lot when I go get my car later today (hopefully).
 
Totoland Mach said:
Good for you My5ABaby: 3000 grit is what I use almost daily and with a competent body shop, you should be fine.



Sometimes car stories do have positive endings!



Toto

:xyxthumbs



Much more reassuring. It was Cars Inc. if anyone has had dealings with them.



Now I just have to learn enough and get the right supplies to try to salvage the paint (Sapphire Blue Metallic: 5A) on my 86 RX7. I'd post pics but I'd probably be banned due to their graphic nature. :p
 
My5ABaby said:
It gives me peace of mind that it's with a company that gets paid to do work as opposed to a grease monkey that gets paid hourly and could care less. At least I think it does...

Grease Monkey? What did the working guy do to you? Reading this post, it sounds like you turned your car over to someone, then asked a forum about what he said, then called the service mgr, repeated what the forum said, got an answer, posted on the forum, then called the service manager with what the forum said...



At the 800 grit comment, they were probably yanking your chain to see what would happen next. Then the body shop manager and him would have a good yuck when you called back.



I expect to get flamed for this, but calling some working guy who MAY want to do a good job but is either rushed or not allowed to do as good a job as he wants because of management, sets me off.



The detailers with their own business do it more so out of passion for doing a good job, and a lot a times their posts say they under estimated the time it would take to do a job RIGHT. Since they bid it wrong, they eat the loss, and that is the risk of being in business for yourself. But, they want it done right when it leaves their shop. Shoot, I bet there is someone out there that was a "grease monkey", learned the trade, didn't lose the passion, got sick of not being able to do a good job, and left to do it the right way, and probably struggled to make it on their own.
 
auto eddie said:
Grease Monkey? What did the working guy do to you?

The grease monkey comment was probably uncalled for and it stemmed from my annoyment at the whole situation. He/she didn't do anything to me but he/she happened to be who I vented on. I'm very annoyed at the situation because I've been misled, lied to, and had my new car less than 24 hours before I took it back for them to fix their mistake. They didn't even call me and tell me that the car was moved to an independent company. I would think that would be pretty obvious for something to do, but that's me. Regardless, it was wrong for me to target them but that's how it came out.



This is also the first new car I've ever owned so I'm kind of freaking out about it. My only other car is a 1986 Mazda RX-7. I love it to death but it's 21 years old, has no A/C or heat, a lot of things are worn out (note: everything I haven't replaced), etc. I'll never trade it or sell it, but that doesn't mean I don't want, and/or need, another car. Cars that old, regardless of what they are, will eventually break in some way or another.



auto eddie said:
Reading this post, it sounds like you turned your car over to someone, then asked a forum about what he said, then called the service mgr, repeated what the forum said, got an answer, posted on the forum, then called the service manager with what the forum said...

That's exactly what I did. I don't know anything about detailing (sans what I've learned from the forum in the last week) so I decided to ask people who know what they're talking about. I don't see the problem in asking professionals, or intelligent hobbyists, for help. I'd much rather ask someone to help me learn something that go headlong into it and screw something up. Doing research (or whatever you want to call it) before jumping into things seems like the intelligent thing to do. At least that's my opinion.



Let's make a hypothetical situation and say you don't know calculus. Let's also say you have a test the next day. If you want to learn how to do calculus are you going to whip out a book and try to learn it yourself or have someone help you? I personally see no problem in asking people who know what they're talking about for help. That's the reason I'm on this forum, to learn from people who have experience and knowledge in the area of detailing.



auto eddie said:
At the 800 grit comment, they were probably yanking your chain to see what would happen next. Then the body shop manager and him would have a good yuck when you called back.

I talked to the service manager at Mazda, not the detailing shop manager. They have a "detailing" shop who probably does good work but isn't really into the area of any paint work beyond clay baring, at least that's how it seemed as how it was explained to me. The dealership doesn't have a body shop. Hell, that's probably why the non-Mazda body shop is probably located up the hill behind the dealership. Judging from the cars I saw at the body shop they get good business from Mazda.



It's also my experience that some (a lot?) managers don't know a damn thing about what they're managing. He, referring to the service manager, could of worked in the parts department and got promoted from there. He could of worked as a mechanic and got promoted from there. Neither of those necessarily, or probably, give him any reason to have knowledge about body work.

When I went to the actual body shop I did talk to the manager and he laid everything out for me as it is. He was very helpful and even let me see the car which he probably could of said no and made up (or not) some random insurance reason why I couldn't go into their shop.



auto eddie said:
I expect to get flamed for this, but calling some working guy who MAY want to do a good job but is either rushed or not allowed to do as good a job as he wants because of management, sets me off.



auto eddie said:
The detailers with their own business do it more so out of passion for doing a good job, and a lot a times their posts say they under estimated the time it would take to do a job RIGHT. Since they bid it wrong, they eat the loss, and that is the risk of being in business for yourself. But, they want it done right when it leaves their shop. Shoot, I bet there is someone out there that was a "grease monkey", learned the trade, didn't lose the passion, got sick of not being able to do a good job, and left to do it the right way, and probably struggled to make it on their own.

The detailers I was referring to work for Mazda. Unless I'm mistaken about something, in which case please (absolutely no sarcasm there) correct me because I don't like to be ignorant, they get paid by the hour.



I respect what private detailers do (why do you think I'm here?). That's a totally different arena than someone working for a dealership. For example, when I was younger I worked for Arby's and got paid hourly. I didn't give a crap about the job because they treated me like crap and my work showed it. Now if I had owned the Arby's it would of been vastly different.



Granted not all people that work at dealerships are like that. But I guarantee at least 1 person there is and that means there's a chance that said person would be working on my car.



---



Once again I'd like to reiterate that I talked to the service manager at Mazda, Mazda doesn't have a body shop, and the independent company body shop manager was very cool and informative.
 
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