Damage evaluation & recommendation (Noob Q)

[tnforever]

Hey all, I'm pretty much brand new here, and hopefully you can answer some of my questions.



1) I currently use IG for glass cleaning, but my MF "bites" my glass a lot, and the swipes are far from smooth. Is this due to my glass or my mf?



2) Are the vroom towels good enough for the final wipe with an LSP?



3) What's the difference/uses between MF and foam pads (by hand?)



4) Finally, pictured here is a 2006 Capri Blue MBZ, it's difficult to take good pictures (some hints?), but I believe these pictures are representative of the overall damage. Taken from A-pillar and hood.



I want to venture into using DG's 105, but I'm curious what what I can use as a polish/glaze to complement the DG. I'll be limited to OTC and hand application (the day I buy a PC will burn a huge hole in my pocket ), or if I should just give up. and also what to top it off with (I have mother's CA gold right now as my wax).

I know this is a lot of questions. I've done hours and hours of ready, and feel like I'm finally ready to begin. Thanks for all your help!

 

[Accumulator]

Hey all, I'm pretty much brand new here, and hopefully you can answer some of my questions...

I'll give 'em a shot but some of this stuff is outside my range of experience.

1) I currently use IG for glass cleaning, but my MF "bites" my glass a lot, and the swipes are far from smooth. Is this due to my glass or my mf?

I'd *guess* that it's a combo of the glass/MF/IG. There are innumerable methods to clean glass (worth the dreaded search) but it sounds like your exact combo might not be optimal. Try changing something and see if it gets better/worse. Heh heh, I know, not much of an answer

2) Are the vroom towels good enough for the final wipe with an LSP?

Beats me, but there are really only two criteria: 1) do they get the LSP off OK and 2) do they do it without marring your paint. You could test them on the data side of a CD, which is usually softer than auto paint; if they mar that I wouldn't use them.

3) What's the difference/uses between MF and foam pads (by hand?)

I find that MF is slightly more gentle but tends to load up/cake with product worse. I apply LSPs (Last Step Products, i.e, waxes) with foam. I usually do by-hand polishing with MF but I have to keep finding a new/clean area of the towel(s) to use. Others do both the opposite so it's whatever *you* prefer.

4) Finally, pictured here is a 2006 Capri Blue MBZ, it's difficult to take good pictures (some hints?), but I believe these pictures are representative of the overall damage. Taken from A-pillar and hood.

Hey, I think those are pretty good pics! Easy enough to see the marring in question, that's for sure :xyxthumbs

I want to venture into using DG's 105, but I'm curious what what I can use as a polish/glaze to complement the DG. I'll be limited to OTC and hand application (the day I buy a PC will burn a huge hole in my pocket ), or if I should just give up. and also what to top it off with (I have mother's CA gold right now as my wax).

Eh, I dunno from DuraGloss stuff (others here do, maybe they'll chime in) nor do I know if your paint is the CeramiClear stuff that's so very hard.



Recent advances in abrasive products (e.g., Meguiar's M105/Ultimate Compound, M205) have made incredible changes in what can be done by hand. IF (maybe a big "if") you put in the time, you can do all sorts of stuff without a machine.



Concentrate on getting the marring out and developing a wash/dry regimen that doesn't reintroduce it.



For waxes, I generally recommend Collinite. Cheap, *very* durable, looks good. I'd just polish until the marring is acceptable, then wax with Collinite, then work on gentle washes.

 

[imported_etml12]

Some additional food for thought to add to Accumulator's response. Since you are limited to hand app. you could look into (i.e. do a search) the use of a glaze to fill some of the defects prior to LSP.

 

[tnforever]

^^ Yup, my original question was what type of glaze will be compatible with DG's line, since I don't know if DG would lift the fillers in a glaze.



Thanks to all the responses so far!



I've read favorable reviews about vroom towels, so I'll work with them. And yes, I have to develop a proper wash method since for the first two years the car was washed by bath towels (before I got into detailing) Now I use a double bucket and MFs, might get a mitt soon.



I guess I'll read more about glass cleaning...

 

[Accumulator]

.., my original question was what type of glaze will be compatible with DG's line, since I don't know if DG would lift the fillers in a glaze....

Re glazes, IME most of 'em don't *really* hide all that much, but they can be helpful.



Some products that aren't always thought of as "glazes" also do some concealing...I'm thinking here of Autoglym Super Resin Polish. It's like KAIO but with *slightly* more abrasion (you'll still never notice it) and a bit less chemical cleaning (don't worry about that either). One thing to worry about is that SRP *will* stain trim, whereas KAIO won't.



But other than that it might fit the bill. It hides a bit of minor stuff, it lasts by itself (if you're too pooped to top it you can wait until after the next wash), and it's not all that finicky about what LSP you put over top of it. SRP topped with Collinite or NXT v2.0 oughta hide minor flaws pretty well.



I dunno if I'd be determined to try the DG stuff until you consider the whole picture; I'd use the right stuff for the situation no matter who makes it.

 

[tnforever]

Well I just checked the Carquest today and it turns out the price is about the same if I shipped it from the internet as if I ordered from the store.



So now I'm basically back at the starting line. I'm still curious about the DG stuff because of its reputation for durability, and AW seems to be one of the best gloss maintenance tools available.



So, any suggestions for me?



How come it seems like you're the only one around, accumulator?



Now my goal is to get it all from one vendor, so the shipping doesnt kill me. Sucks that neither RMG nor SRP is available on AG.



http://www.autopia.org/forum/detailing-articles-videos/77859-test-swirl-removal-hand.html

 

[Kaze_RSX]

I'm in a similar boat as you I lack a polisher and have some mild swirls...



For the glass, as well as the rest of the car:

Buy a Clay Magic kit locally at car quest



VRoom MF towels: I have a few of these too, they aren't the best for paint, but the marring on my soft honda clear still is pretty light, indicating to me that if gently used they wont be *too* damaging.



For the swirls, take your time using ScatchX as seen in the guide. Its locally available and as you can see, does a half decent job at hiding some of those swirl marks.



I'd also recommend ordering this Detailing Bucket Gifts and picking up a 5 gallon bucket from... wherever really... Then carefully learn the two bucket method and proper washing techniques.



For an LSP thats easy to use, a good price, and has decent durability I recommend PROFESSIONAL CAR WAX - WET DEEP GLOSS BUTTER WET WAX CAR WAX AND AUTO POLISH It wont last as long as Collinite, but two layers will have your car looking nice and protected for about 6 weeks (in my experiences at least)



Can't help you on the DuraGloss stuff either. All I can vouch for is their bumper and trim dressing (#271), silicone free dressing (#321 *love this stuff!*) and car wash concentrate (#901) which in my opinion is the best (relatively) OTC car wash available.



Hope this helps :wavey & Accumulator, your post was very informative as always, thank you!

 

[Cleaning Fool]

Vroom towels are just fine. If you want get get your glass top notch, get Duragloss Nu Glass. Best glass product/polish Ive used. Your glass prolly has contaminants that reg cleaning will not remove. Duragloss is top notch, good choice. I would save my money and get the Porter Cable before I went the hand route, but Im 40 something,and hate doing polishing by hand. Save 20 bucks a week and in 2 months your good to go.

 

[tnforever]

What product can I use in the mean time to reduce the appearance of the swirls? I've thought about the effort involved in using a machine as well, and think it's probably not worth it.



I found some sites which get the 3 items shipped to me for a little less than AG, but I'm thinking of picking up some Cobra Miracle towels while I'm at it. How are they in terms of absorbancy? I tend to double some up as drying towels.

 

[Accumulator]

..So, any suggestions for me?

First, I'd determine whether or not you have CeramiClear. If you do, and you're working by hand, then you'll have pretty limited options.



You could get some of Meguiar's new "Ultimate Compound" for the worst marring (or even the whole car) and then follow it with the new version of Scratch-X (or try their #80). Then top with their NXT v2.0. That'll improve things a *LOT*.



The older version of Scratch-X never impresed me (favorably) and hard clear just laughs at it anyhow



You don't have to do the whole car at once. I'd probably do a panel or two after each of a series of regular washes.

 

[tnforever]

^^ yes, working by hand'll be a PITA. I'll probably work on it in 3 different sessions. I was going to try the SwirlX, do you think the Ultimate compound is a better path?

I've yet to really see any solid reviews on the net (incl Meg's site) to see the corrective power these products have...

 

[tnforever]

Just checked, and yes, as far as I can tell, it IS ceramiclear. No wonder the car doesn't look that bad given the abuse it's taken the first couple years...

 

[Accumulator]

^^ yes, working by hand'll be a PITA. I'll probably work on it in 3 different sessions. I was going to try the SwirlX, do you think the Ultimate compound is a better path?...

I'd *MUCH* rather do one (or more) time each with both the Ultimate Compound and the Swirl-X than four (or *many* more) times with just the latter



That example is just a guess as I haven't used either, but you should *NOT* underestimate how tough such stuff is and I wouldn't hesitate to do the initial work with the more aggressive product.