DACP - Whats a harsher alternative?

M

MattieUK

New member
Had a go at detailing my wifes car bonnet last night. Its a metallic navy Ford KA. Now this bonnet has a lot of scratches mostly small swirls, which the DACP cleared no problem. However there is a number of scratchs left that no matter how I worked the product, or how many passes with the PC on a orange sonus pad (3 in total) I could not shift or soften them. When I do the nail test my nail does not catch, so I assume these are not deep.



My questions is what would you recommend prior to DACP to try to get these sctaches out, would Megs Scratch X using the PC be a good choice?



Thanks



Matt
 
Matt, I don't really have a stronger polish to recommend. I use DACP as my most aggressive polish. I just purchased Poorboy's 3.0 but I have not tried it yet. Scratch X was developed to use by hand and Mike Phillips with Meg's recommends not using it with a PC. You could try it by hand. I have used and it does pretty well for using arm power. Good luck, Wes
 
Scratch X isn't more abrasive than DACP. You might try doing more than one application of DACP rather than looking for something more abrasive. Thinking about it, I don't know that anything more abrasive is recommended to be used by PC.



EDIT: Just reread your post and saw that you have already done more than one application. You might want to look at "feather" sanding the scratches and then polishing. You will have to search here or on MOL for the technique. Mike Phillips has done write ups on the process and it's very effective for situations such as yours.
 
Some people think Poorboy's SSR2.5 is a little more aggressive than DACP. SSR3 feels (between your fingers) like liquid sandpaper, and Poorboy really recommends it with a rotary, but ScubaStevo :rolleyes: has used it recently on a lighter color here and seems to have recovered it ok. Don't know if you can get that stuff in Jolly Ol'.
 
Corey Bit Spank said:
That paint didn't even look that bad before...
Click to expand...



Yeah, but think what it could have looked like AFTER liquid sandpaper! I was playing around with some acid rain/bird pits, scratches, etc. on my old car, and DACP with a Meg's burgundy pad wasn't really denting it with the PC, so I bought some SSR3 and tried a little by hand, and never did feel brave enough to use it more than that. Maybe when I'm ready to get rid of the car...although that sounds like a rotary practice session!
 
I have removed scratches with SSR3 and a PC.



Needed to go to a 4" orange pad and use multiple passes. The 4" pad allows you to concentrate the energy of the PC into a smaller, more effective area and break down the SSR3.



However, I still needed to follow the SSR3 with a finer polish before applying LSP.
 
3m makes a lquid scratch remover that seems similar to their pro rubbing compound-claims to remove 1500 sanding marks- that might do the trick- next more aggressive would be the 3m fine cut for 1200 sanding marks
 
Use an extreme cut product via hand - SSR3, PowerGloss, any of the 3M heavy compounds. Rub in vigorously via terry towel. Smooth out compund marring via PC and DACP, then finish with a mild SMR. The only way to really get those easily would be a rotary and powergloss, but thats a story for another time.......
 
The Big O isn't really strong enough, unless you use it via wool pad and rotary. Given a rotary, Optimum will do miracles in one step. Via PC, its solid, but don't expect miracles.
 
The next step for me after DACP with a PC is Malco Rejuvenator or Foam Pad Polish and a rotary, if that doesn't get the scratch out I give up. You can use some 2000 grit sandpaper to wet sand the scratch out but if you polish/sand too much clear coat off you run 2 risks, the major one is you will hit the color coat and that's dull, no wax will make that shiny again, the second risk is you reduce the thickness of the clearcoat where the UV protectors in the clearcoat can't protect as well so your paint won't last as long. So you have to ask yourself, is removing that last scratch worth the risk of having to repaint that panel? I speak from experience, been there, done that, had hood repainted.
 
I second the 4" pad suggestion with a PC. I can do rotary-like corrections with a 4" pad/PC, especially something so localised.



Get yourself a 4" orange pad or SFX yellow. You can use #83 and it'll be more aggressive with the PC at high speed than what you're getting now. I really think that'll remove all marring that doesn't catch your fingernail.



You don't need to go harsher, just smarter.



I hope you get the results you're after. :up
 
I have to say I find SSR2.5 way more effective than DACP and would give it a go before stepping up to something more aggressive.



Ben
 
I may be wrong, but isn't 3M Perfect It III Rubbing Compound (#05933) slightly more aggressive than DACP and PC friendly as well?



I'll be working on that assumption this weekend when I tackle the "Professional Detailer" installed swirls on my black Subaru. :angry I've already used DACP on some of the car, but I'm looking for something a little more effective (less time consuming) AND user friendly.
 
superstring said:
I may be wrong, but isn't 3M Perfect It III Rubbing Compound (#05933) slightly more aggressive than DACP and PC friendly as well?



I'll be working on that assumption this weekend when I tackle the "Professional Detailer" installed swirls on my black Subaru. :angry I've already used DACP on some of the car, but I'm looking for something a little more effective (less time consuming) AND user friendly.
Click to expand...



I have very limited experience with #83 and that was a long time ago...but the 05933 works well for me on stuff that doesn't require a rotary. I use it with a 4" pad.
 
Yes the 3M Fine Compound works wonders. Turn the PC to about 3-4 and work the compound into the paint. You may experience hazing, so beware that you may have to polish the car a couple times.
 
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