DACP vs. Perfect-It III: Which is better?

Thanks again Ntwrkguy I started at 4 and stayed at about 5 until there was nothing left. I liked the way it left the paint I just didn't get the swirls out. What part of NC are you located?
 
Thanks.....we like it here. Plus, I'm only 4 miles from work, so I can go home and detail at lunchtime!! Myrtle Beach is nice......if I ever golf as well as I detail, I'll spend a lot of time there! :)
 
Like Tort, PI-III MG is my "workhorse polish" as well due to the no fillers content...however, I have had better results using the CMA white pad rather than the Yellow Pad...for me the yellow pad did 100% swirl removal but left very slight hazing in certain spots where as the white pad, which also removed swirls, gave me a perfect finish to apply my sealant/wax...



I also tried different techiques with the PC where I would start at speed 3 and end at 6(the first technique I learned when I first bought the PC)...but I have had better results just using 5-5.5 the whole way through...
 
KG/CM²: Do you find that the MG flashes really fast at 5 - 5.5? It would seem like it might, though I've never tried it like that. Are you spritzing your white pad with a little distilled water first?
 
That is a very good question...I wondered about that too -- if I had worked the product in enough...however, what ->I<- have noticed the last time I used the PI-III MG was was that it took roughly the same amount of time to work both in ... the temp was ~60° sunny, low humidity...with my concern, I did the front passenger door one techique (speed 5/5.5) and the rear passenger door the other technique(speed 3-6) and took it out in the sun...both ended up looking nearly identical with (to ->me<-) a slightly better finish to the 5-5.5 speed...before I started, I spritzed alil' QD on my pad...YMMV...
 
Thanks all for joining in this discussion. I'll go back and try the white pad and see if that removes the slight hazing I got with the yellow pad.



Nick T, those twin 500W Halogens I bought are incredible to see my work but also agonizing to now be able to see every defect :).
 
Do you find that the MG flashes really fast at 5 - 5.5?
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I don't mean to ask a dumb question but can you explain to me what "flash" refers to with a polish like 3M PI III??? TIA
 
"Flashing" refers to that point at which the product goes from 'wet' to 'dry'. Typically, if you set the PC at a lower speed, the product will remain 'wet' for a little while longer, giving you a chance to work it.



hth,



DavidM
 
Nick T. said:
When I used a halogen the first time it almost made me give up on detailing! All that hard work and my paint looked like [oops!] <IMG SRC=http://home.jps.net/~ntaylor/images/frustrated2.gif>



Now I have a dual 500W, a dual 250W, and a 500W hand-held - and wouldn’t be without them.
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I sure can relate to that! I had spent the better part of a week with the PC and Meguiars #9 working on the car a little each night. I went out and bought a Craftsman dual 650W to help with the lighting in the garage. My jaw dropped. :eek: I thought I was almost done at that point until I saw what was still left to do. That is when I discovered DACP and CMA pads. :xyxthumbs Now I don't fear the halogen, it is my friend :cool:
 
PIII MG? I likey! :xyxthumbs



PIII MG, SEC, EX, S100 on my RX 300.

It's hard to find a flat surface to photograph.



http://www.autopia.org/gallery/data/501/2406piii.jpg



http://www.autopia.org/gallery/data/501/2406piii3.jpg



2406piii2.jpg
 
So just to clarify...DACP and 3M FI III MG are the same in abrasiveness??????



In reading the replies it seems that 3M MG might be alittle easier to use.
 
Pats300zx said:
So just to clarify...DACP and 3M FI III MG are the same in abrasiveness??????



In reading the replies it seems that 3M MG might be alittle easier to use.
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I don't use DACP (tried it once, disliked it intensely, returned to store . . . but I seem to be the exception), but I gather from reading past threads that most rate it slightly more agressive than MG.



Tort
 
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