DACP difficult to remove?

B

bunker

New member
I detailed a car Monday with quite a few scratches all over. I decided to us Megs DACP for the first time because it is more aggressive than other products I use. I found it VERY difficult to wipe off. I wound up using 50/50 mixture of water and alcohol to remove the residue. Could it be I worked the product too long?

Oh, I used a PC with yellow pads.

I finally switched to 3m Swirl Mark Remover instead.

Any ideas?

Thanks
 
Work it until nearly clear and dry and it should wipe off with ease. I used it with a PC on dboat's Mustang and had no problems wiping it off. I usually use it by hand though. Just work one section, then wipe off. If you leave it on and move to another section, it can be hard to wipe off cleanly.
 
Try using a bit less. Hard to say without seeing exactly what you were doing, but DACP is not normally hard to remove.
 
Sounds like you might be using too much product and working it a little too long or letting it sit too long. Try using less product and working a smaller area.



I use 4 dime size dabs per 2x2 area and work it for about 3 minutes with the PC on 4 and then 1 minute with the PC on 5.5. I never let it haze, just work i till it's almost clear and it wipes off pretty easilly. Not as easy as say S100, but still fairly easilly.



What method are you using?



Michael
 
Didn't Geekysteve or somebody report having problems with his newer bottle of DACP but not with his older bottle?



Could be a formula "tweak" or something. Try searching to find this - it wasn't long ago. :confused:
 
I use DACP with a yellow cutting pad, and have NEVER had any problems with any residue, because I work it in until it's basically all gone. You'll start to see white powder thrown to the sides of the area you are working- that's how you'll know it's all nearly all gone.

Are you using too much? Start with speed 4.0 until it's almost gone, then crank it up to 5 or 6 for the final few passes. There should be no residue left to wipe off, basically.

Good luck.

Don't give up on DACP yet, it's a great product, IMHO.
 
I had a similar problem, It got really chalky and was a PITA to remove.

My problem I think came from not using a totally dry pad. I wasn't using too much product for the area, and only got it a couple of times.
 
I've used DACP extensively and eventually came up with these ideas.



1)Dampen the pad before you use it.



2)Dont use too much product!



3)Wipe each panel after your done compunding it - seems when DACP dries out it sticks like glue :(



4)Clean yer pad often!

I have to clean a pad at least once while doing a vehicle, even twice if its a big truck.

A quick wash in warm water and some liquid soap, followed by a rinse and spin dry on the PC makes lifes SO much easier.



Just some ideas. ... They work for me :)
 
I use it on a dry yellow pad, even on really oxidized cars, and have never had a problem. I work the DACP until there is nothing but a fine dust, which just blows off the paint without buffing. So I just do a quick wipe with an MF, and I am good to go with a sealant.
 
By the way the posts are coming in, I think I may be using too much product. I'll try again this weekend to experiment. Nice to have other peoples cars to experiment on.;)

Thanks again for the help.

Scott
 
BlackRegal said:
I don't usually have problems with DACP, but SFP is a whole different story...
Click to expand...



SFP hard to use? I'm planning to get try SFP but like to hear some comments.



I'm the one of newbie DACP user who isn't happy with the result. I'll try it again next week.



hey bunker, how's your DACP? better now?
 
I've used the product on three cars with a PC and a yellow pad on setting 4 and NEVER had any problems. I used one ring of product around the pad per panel and worked it in well and buffed with a 100% cotton towel immediately.
 
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