Cyclo tips?

PJS- I've had good results with the Blue Sonus brand finishing pads.



Anf FWIW, I like bonnets over the *yellow* pads, but I'm using them to *remove* product, not apply it.
 
Ah, but bear in mind I only have the DP sytem - didn't fancy faffing around with velcro and off-centred pads.
 
Cheers Accumulator - but of no use to me since I went straight for the DP set-up, and therefore restricted to what Cyclo puts out.

Never tried the regular mf bonnets to remove the LSP, again, a lot of faffing about unless you have a spare set of pads with the bonnet already on them.



That said, it'll be interesting to see how I find the alternative to the suede bonnets, seeing if they do indeed glide more effortlessly over the surface as suggested.
 
PJS said:
..

Never tried the regular mf bonnets to remove the LSP, again, a lot of faffing about unless you have a spare set of pads with the bonnet already on them.



That said, it'll be interesting to see how I find the alternative to the suede bonnets, seeing if they do indeed glide more effortlessly over the surface as suggested.
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When I'm LSPing, I keep the second Cyclo set up with pads/bonnets for removal :D



The suede-style bonnets work well for buffing off sealant residue, but I never saw any big differences in the different types of bonnets, they all seem to work about the same when it comes to product removal.



I never tried the bonnets for product *application* though :think:
 
Just in case I wasn't clear, I buff the LSP manually (might bother one of these days to try the white pads), then go over again with the microsuedes.

Maybe you're right about the bonnets, but I still believe microsuede is better in light of the method outlined above.



As for application by bonnet - don't think I would. I find the manual method for those I've tried, is perfectly fine and preferable, since you get an immediate feel for when you need more product applied to the applicator or panel in question.

With the machine, it's not quite as easily discernible as to when that point is reached.



These new Ultrafine wool pads coming will be to replace the bonnet approach, and we'll see if they do anything better/worse on the appearance side.
 
PJS said:
Just in case I wasn't clear, I buff the LSP manually (might bother one of these days to try the white pads), then go over again with the microsuedes...
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OK, you and I just reverse the steps; I buff the LSP off with the Cyclo/microsuede and then go over it again by hand. Probably works out about the same either way (at least I could never see a difference).



These new Ultrafine wool pads coming will be to replace the bonnet approach, and we'll see if they do anything better/worse on the appearance side.
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Just to make sure we're on the same page, what are you gonna use the Ultrafine wool pads for?
 
As said, the UF pads will replace the microsuede - so for all intent purposes nothing regime wise will change, only the choice of material with which to do it.

So, polish, apply LSP, buff manually, final buff with UF pads.
 
PJS said:
As said, the UF pads will replace the microsuede - so for all intent purposes nothing regime wise will change, only the choice of material with which to do it.

So, polish, apply LSP, buff manually, final buff with UF pads.
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Hmm..I dunno....I've never felt *any* wool pads that I'd let touch my paint like that. I don't even trust most foam or some MFs once the paint is 100% the way I want it and I've started LSPing!



I'd worry that any wool, no matter how fine, would instill microscopic marring :think: Even plush MF bonnets aren't soft enough for me on some cars, and those pass the CD test even under magnification.



I'd sure be careful if/when you try those out!
 
Cheers Accumulator - I understand where you're coming from, but hey, we'll find out soon enough, I guess.
 
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