Cyclo/PC Differences

I see about a year ago there is a thread Cyclo verse the PC and during that thread a lot of people said they were thinking about buying one. I would like to know the differences between them and maybe some of the new users of the Cyclo could chime in and give there thoughts on the differences.
 
The Cyclo's only real disadvantages are having only one speed and being a lot bigger and hard to fit in tight spaces. Other than that, and price, it absolutely blows the PC away. It's faster, better balanced, and for me much more comfortable to use. It's not a tool that everyone can justify, but personally, I haven't touched my PC once for paint work since I bought my cyclo.
 
themightytimmah said:
The Cyclo's only real disadvantages are having only one speed and being a lot bigger and hard to fit in tight spaces. Other than that, and price, it absolutely blows the PC away. It's faster, better balanced, and for me much more comfortable to use. It's not a tool that everyone can justify, but personally, I haven't touched my PC once for paint work since I bought my cyclo.



...and now that I can lay down a nice, even and thin layer of 845 with the Cyclo the PC is struggling for LSP use these days...
 
When it comes to aggressive correction, the only way the PC can compare with the Cyclo is when the PC is fitted with 4" pads. This still leaves the PC much less user-friendly in many (most?) people's opinions.



But the Cyclo's inability to deal with certain panel contours is a valid concern. There are areas of my XJS that the Cyclo simply can't do, and that (oh-so-cool) hotrod of yours might have similarly non-Cyclo-friendly contours.



Not trying to dissuade you from getting the Cyclo, and I sure love mine. Just want to make sure the potential issues don't get overlooked.



I like mine so much that I might even get a *third* one :eek: I like to have one set up for application (polishes and LSPs), one set up for LSP removal (w/MF bonnets) and I'd like to keep one dedicated to carpet scrubbing with the available brushes. If anybody knows of an *old* Model 5 with the aluminum top handle and the engraved metal ID plate, let me know...
 
Contours has always been a problem of mine. The space on the front fenders between the engine cowling and fender is probably one of the worst areas to polish, the PC will not fit and I’m sure the Cyclo also will not be able to fit. I have been trying to do them by hand and use of glazes to cover up what is left over. How do you get in to those tight contours? As you can see the angles are impossible to polish by using a PC…. Any suggestions???





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The only machine that's going to be able to get in there is a rotary. Just looking at that paintjob, if I were you, I'd try to find someone who was VERY good with one. Not something I'd trust to the average Joe.
 
DennisH- Yeah, those're exactly the spots I was thinking about. I'd be very hesitant to try those spots with a rotary, and I don't scare that easily ;)



I'd put a big pad on the PC and use the edge/back side of it. Not optimal, but safe and better than working by hand, which you'll still have to do in some places.



If the cost doesn't give you pause, I'd still consider a Cyclo. Just finished using mine and *man* do I like using that machine.
 
themightytimmah said:
The Cyclo's only real disadvantages are having only one speed and being a lot bigger and hard to fit in tight spaces. Other than that, and price, it absolutely blows the PC away. It's faster, better balanced, and for me much more comfortable to use. It's not a tool that everyone can justify, but personally, I haven't touched my PC once for paint work since I bought my cyclo.





I'm basically of the same opinion. It is also difficult to fit in certain spaces, but that in no way changes the fact that it blows the PC away in most other ways.



On that rod, a PC or even a rotary would probably give you some trouble in those spaces; any of that work can be accomplished BY HAND, instead :scared:, it just takes a little time and effort.



Todd
 
The angles are deceiving, I used my PC and laid a ruler across the pad to see how wide the pad would have to be if I was using rotary to get into those tight spots. Leaving a safe distance from the vertical panel the pad would have to be about 16 inches wide. I have been doing the areas by hand then using RMG to cover up what is left. We put a cyclo on order anyway.



I use to pay a detailer once or twice year to detail my rides and I decided to save some bucks and do it myself. I have spent 800.00 bucks this year alone on detailing supplies to save a few bucks – probably another 800.00 last year. I could paid one of you guys to fly up and detail for me and probably saved money!!!! :faint:
 
DennisH said:
I have been doing the areas by hand then using RMG to cover up what is left. We put a cyclo on order anyway.



I use to pay a detailer ... I have spent 800.00 bucks this year alone on detailing supplies to save a few bucks – probably another 800.00 last year.



Hope you like the Cyclo. You might oughta find some products that work especially well by hand for those tight spots.



The money notwithstanding, IMO you're *way* ahead doing this stuff yourself, if only because you truly *know* what's being done to your vehicles. Ignorance isn't really bliss ;)
 
I think you'll find that it's safer than you'd expect :D Does give the impression of being a real piece of machinery though, huh? Don't try to grab the spinning pads the way you can with a PC...people seem to do that for some reason, and they usually regret it for quite a while ;)
 
Hi Dennis, any update on the cyclo ? It is almost coming to half a month since you got your cyclo, care to comment on the difference between the cyclo and PC ? And which one you prefer ? Thanks.
 
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