Cutting/Polishing Pad...Doesnt matter?????

B

breakneckvtec

New member
I think I read somewhere that SSR2.5 can be used with either a cutting or a polishing pad and will work with both. Polishing giving less cut, cutting giving obviously more. Is this true or should it always be used with a cutting pad?

What about the in betweener SSR2? Either as well? Or one of the other? If so, which?

Just curious, thanks.
 
If we are talking about the PC, then I only use a cutting pad on vehicles that are "lost casues." With the rotary I will use a cutting pad more often.

IMO 2.5 and 2 work best with the PC when a polishiing pad is used. If you use a cutting pad with the PC using 2.5 expect to follow up with a final polish. With a polishing pad you can often go straight to your LSP.
 
You can use either pad with SSR2 or 2.5. I always try the least aggressive solution (polishing pad) and it usually works. When using a cutting pad, you'll have to follow up with a polishing pad to remove hazing.
 
I am also curious, how often do you guys polish?

I find that its not uncommon for me to do a good 3-4 polishing sessions during the detailing months per year. I worry though that I will run into problems with clear coat failure. I am using the PC, and some seem to do it ALOT and never have a problem. Opinions?
 
I agree with the above replies...never use a cutting pad unless it is needed, as it can induce its own swirls into the finish. As far as going through a clearcoat with a PC, :nono you'd have to use something like SSR3 or a heavy compound with a cutting pad very often to cut all the way through a clearcoat , assuming that the clearcoat is not really old or in horrible condition to start...
 
I polish about 3 times a year with something like SSR1 on my own cars. IIRC you had an EBP SI at one time too so I am sure that you can attest to the "scratch sensitive" quality of that paint. Sometimes I think that if you breath on Honda paint that it will swirl. I am probably overly cautious with my washing/drying techniques, but it helps me to not have to polish too frequently.
 
I did have an EBP Si...then a lady talking on her cell phone rear ended me and totalled it :mad: :ticked :mad:

I lost alot of money on the mods I had in that car, swore it off, and am back at it again with my 1.8T Jetta.

But yeah, I polished the crap out of my SI and never had a problem. That paint does swirl easy, your right. My VW has alot better paint. I guess my big concern is that my observations of my car lead me to believe that my front bumper, hood, passenger door, and fender MAY have been repainted. The shop did great work though if it was because I am going off of subtle cues. The dealer said it was never in an accident, so I am not so sure. I guess my main worry is that if there are any resprayed areas how those would take to polishing, since I would have know clue who did the work and if it was done right.

I guess I worry to much :)
 
Actually the dealer maybe right and wrong...it could have been a factory repaint which happens more than you could imagine. There are often flaws in the finish and that's where quality control comes in and spots the problems, tries to repair them and then if needed, they send them back to be repainted..I talked to a friend of mine who runs a Ford plant and he confirmed this and said you wouldn't believe the percentage of vehicles that need repairs before leaving the plant, thus also factory swirl marks too:dunno
 
This would make alot of sense

Because Carfax picked up nothing

But I think the rubstrip on the passenger door and the front bumper were repainted. Oh well, looks mint so no worries I suppose.
 
Poorboy said:
Actually the dealer maybe right and wrong...it could have been a factory repaint which happens more than you could imagine. There are often flaws in the finish and that's where quality control comes in and spots the problems, tries to repair them and then if needed, they send them back to be repainted..I talked to a friend of mine who runs a Ford plant and he confirmed this and said you wouldn't believe the percentage of vehicles that need repairs before leaving the plant, thus also factory swirl marks too:dunno
Click to expand...

Yep, if you ever spot a transporter hauling cars in the full sun chances are that a few of them will have buffer swirls in small isolated areas.

I would think that if the car was painted elsewhere that the clear would be thicker than factory and should respond well to polishing. :dunno
 
Thats good to know, I havent experienced any problems yet...

Well I feel eased, I would have been polishing away anyway :)

If I ever run into a problem I will handle it when it arises.

Thanks for the info on the polishes. I gave the paint a good cut with the cutting pad and SSR2.5 X 2 when I got it. The swirls I have now are wash induced and very light so I think I will go with SSR2 or 2.5 and a polishing pad come spring.

Its too cold to do anything now...and it rains every other day in NJ this time of year so its pointless to try...
 
Dont give up guys from NJ, NEPA is just as bad and i'll be in the garage with my two space heaters cranking every weekend!

To answer this thread I agree with the above responses, after trying both the pads use the polishing (white or green Lake Country) for the 2.5
 
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