Cutting pad to remove waterspots from windows?

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imported_Surfer

New member
I posted this at AG but figured I'd post it here as well for extra help:



Finally found what works decently to remove spots, #0000 steel wool and AIO. Seems to only work if I put a little on the wool and rub the glass like hell, if I put it straight on the glass with a polishing pad, the wool doesn't seem to do anything (which I actually thought would work with AIO sitting on it a bit to break down the etching). BUT my arms are killing me (almost hard to turn the steering wheel when driving lol).



Is there an easier way I was thinking of picking up the spot buff kit at AG and still not sure of the pad's will cut it to remove the waterspot etching. I was just worried about scratching the glass. My front windshield definitley needs it (the areas where the wipers don't clean).



Any help, thanks in advance
 
Your on the right track Ive had the best luck with 0000 wool and QD. If that doesnt work ive used a rotary. Im not sure if a DA will do anything.
 
cj99si said:
Your on the right track Ive had the best luck with 0000 wool and QD. If that doesnt work ive used a rotary. Im not sure if a DA will do anything.
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Yeh but the problem is it's a biatch, and I only did two rear windows on my suv. Still have the others and mainly the front windshield to do :waxing: , gotta be an easier way lol. Arms are killing me right now, feels like I've been wakeboarding 24/7 for a week straight. I saw a post that scottwax used Optimum Compound on the glass? I have Optimum Polish but was worried about scratching the glass.



I'm still thinking of picking up the spot buff kit from AG anyway, I can at least use the pads on a drill so.....
 
Be careful with the fine steel wool. Some auto glass is mightly soft these days and it's a hassle to get it replaced.



I'd use a rotary with a cutting pad and Meg's #4, which is what Mike Phillips always does. And I'd take measures to keep it off the paint, that's pretty nasty stuff. The spot buff kit would basically be the same thing.
 
Be careful with the Spot Buffs kit. I bought it and the backing plate/adapter it comes with IMO is crap. The first time I used it the backing plate spun right off the adapter and scratched the @#$!% out of my car. When I contacted the manufacturer (Lake Country) they refused to reimburse me for damages.



Also, have you tried glass polish? I've used the Detailer's Pride glass polish and it does a great job restoring clarity to older glass.
 
Mikeyc said:
Be careful with the Spot Buffs kit. I bought it and the backing plate/adapter it comes with IMO is crap. The first time I used it the backing plate spun right off the adapter and scratched the @#$!% out of my car. When I contacted the manufacturer (Lake Country) they refused to reimburse me for damages.



Also, have you tried glass polish? I've used the Detailer's Pride glass polish and it does a great job restoring clarity to older glass.
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That's actually why I bought the new Edge pad kit that screws on (plus the pads are double sided). I heard from others that had the velcro back seperate or the pad tear causing the PC to gash the car. But I like the spot buff kit b/c you can attach it to a drill (which in a real circular motion might do a slight better job then the 4" pad on a PC). Still deciding on whether to pick it up, plus there are parts on my truck like above the windows where the regular pads are too big even in 6" form.



I looked at the Detailers Pride stuff, but wasn't sure if it would be strong enough to remove waterspots that have been on the glass for over a year. #0000 Steel Wool and AIO seem to be working well, just a pain in the ***. Do you think the Detailers Pride Glass Polish will be strong enough?
 
Surfer said:
That's actually why I bought the new Edge pad kit that screws on (plus the pads are double sided). I heard from others that had the velcro back seperate or the pad tear causing the PC to gash the car. But I like the spot buff kit b/c you can attach it to a drill (which in a real circular motion might do a slight better job then the 4" pad on a PC). Still deciding on whether to pick it up, plus there are parts on my truck like above the windows where the regular pads are too big even in 6" form.



I looked at the Detailers Pride stuff, but wasn't sure if it would be strong enough to remove waterspots that have been on the glass for over a year. #0000 Steel Wool and AIO seem to be working well, just a pain in the ***. Do you think the Detailers Pride Glass Polish will be strong enough?
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Actually, I didn't have a problem with the velcro backing seperating. The kit comes with two adapters. One is for use with a drill and the other for PC use. The adapter is then screwed into the packing plate which in turn attaches to the pad via velcro. When I had a problem, the backing plate unscrewed from the adapter during use.



FYI . . . I've seen people using 4" Edge 2000 pads. I just don't know who sells them. I would contact Aaron at Edgepads.com. He could probably tell you where to get them. Also, make sure you have the new shorter Edge adapter. The old one according to what I've read had some problems. If you do have the old one Edge will exchange it for the new one at no charge.



I've used the DP Glass polish to remove water spots. They weren't really bad ones, but the polish made short work of them. I applied it with my PC and an orange LC pad.
 
Mikeyc said:
Actually, I didn't have a problem with the velcro backing seperating. The kit comes with two adapters. One is for use with a drill and the other for PC use. The adapter is then screwed into the packing plate which in turn attaches to the pad via velcro. When I had a problem, the backing plate unscrewed from the adapter during use.



FYI . . . I've seen people using 4" Edge 2000 pads. I just don't know who sells them. I would contact Aaron at Edgepads.com. He could probably tell you where to get them. Also, make sure you have the new shorter Edge adapter. The old one according to what I've read had some problems. If you do have the old one Edge will exchange it for the new one at no charge.



I've used the DP Glass polish to remove water spots. They weren't really bad ones, but the polish made short work of them. I applied it with my PC and an orange LC pad.
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Yup, actually just bought the new kit which comes with the new adapter. I think they had an free exchange program if you had the old one. I'll definitley keep DP Glass Polish in mind.
 
I just ordered some DP glass restorer. I will try it on my dads passat mirrors and will take before/after pictures.
 
I am with Accumulator on this one, Meguiars #4 heavy cut cleaner. You can either use it with a rotary or work it hard by hand and a terry cloth towel-I took some nasty water spots and wiper marks off a windhield this weekend.
 
74 thing said:
I am with Accumulator on this one, Meguiars #4 heavy cut cleaner. You can either use it with a rotary or work it hard by hand and a terry cloth towel-I took some nasty water spots and wiper marks off a windhield this weekend.
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How would Megs #4 do with a light cutting/polishing pad? I've never used it before but I always see people mention it and how strong it is. Just worried about scratching the glass. Might just order some DP Glass Restorer as I talked to somebody ese who used it on corvetteforum to take out some serious waterspo etching.
 
74Thing- Good to know that it'll work OK by hand for this, thanks for posting that. Makes sense as it's not the same "abrasive breakdown" issue that you'd have with paint.



Surfer- Mike Phillips is *VERY* careful about what he recommends lest Meguiar's get spanked for bad advice. When he says it's his go-to solution to glass I'd take that to the bank. If the steel wool doesn't scratch it (and it *will* mar many types of automotive glass, I've seen it) then IMO the #4 sure won't.
 
I'm reluctant to use steel wool near my paint since if any of it flakes off, it's an invitation to scratches or swirls. Anyway, I used an orange light cutting pad on my PC with some DP Glass Restorer and it worked quite nicely.
 
I know this is probrably a no-no for Autotopians but here is what has always worked for me. Fight fire with fire. #0000 steel wool & wheel acid diluted 50/50 or more. Wet the vehicle spray one window at a time with acid, rub with steel wool, rinse. There is no need for hard scrubbing and it's fast. I have never done a windshield like this rumor has it that the pits will turn white. I have done this on many many many vehicles with no problems.



My windshield has a huge scratch in it from clay.
 
jvriii1942 said:
My windshield has a huge scratch in it from clay.
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More like from a piece of abrasive grit that got picked up by the clay. Just as with claying paint, I only do very small areas and very short strokes at a time. If the clay picks up something abrasive in the first inch, and you continue moving it for two more inches, you get a two-inch long scratch.



Heh heh, I'm too cautious to try your window regimen.
 
Don't like the idea of a cutting pad, I'd stick with a polish pad

DP glass restorer is really good (seems stronger at this than 1Z glas and Sonus G & C polish) but I normally use Menzerna or Optimum polishes and compounds to fix heavy spotting

Sonus SFX 1 - 3 are great for glass and plastics - unbeatable gloss



If that doesn't work, move up to Diamondite D3 compound glaze by machine or if needed, cerious oxide mixed with water



Don't know how many do it but I like to finish any polishing on glass with clearkote or an ultra fine finishing polish by machine and then AIO by hand before applying any acrylic sealant (don't wipe the AIO off)









thepolishingshop.co.uk

gave me some good ideas
 
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