I have been reading the forum for the past few days, and didn't see anything on detailing cars that don't have a clearcoat finish (I want to clean up my dad's '65 Corvair a bit). I want to make sure that I don't do anything to the paint. If anyone could let me know what to stay away from and what to use it would be a great help.
Custom '74 Black Corvette....
- Thread starter larryvb
- Start date
JasonC8301
New member
I have detailed a 1990 Mazda MX-6 with no clear coat, black. The hood is grey from paint failure and parts of the top of the car also have clearcoat failure along with parts of the trunk, but gosh the side of the car is very shiny. I used Meguiars #7 and Meguiars #26 on the sides of the car. Made it wet and deep looking, but only lasted a month or two.
I am sure One Grand Blitz can be used on a non-clear along with Klasse.
Zaino has the Z3 polish for non-clears.
Whats the condition of the corvair? as I am sure you can a light rubbing compound on it for any defects. Don't have to worry about cutting through the clear, but be careful with RC anyhow. Clear or not
Jason
I am sure One Grand Blitz can be used on a non-clear along with Klasse.
Zaino has the Z3 polish for non-clears.
Whats the condition of the corvair? as I am sure you can a light rubbing compound on it for any defects. Don't have to worry about cutting through the clear, but be careful with RC anyhow. Clear or not
Jason
ISLANDSBEST
New member
As JasonC8301 said, Zaino makes a polish specifically for single stage (non-clear coat) paint. Its called Z3.
Zaino is easy to use. I highly recommend it. Your procedure would be:
Get the paint in shape as needed. You will need clean paint to start with. This may mean using a mild abrasive to remove oxidation (which happens with single stage paint).
1. Dawn wash
2. Clay, using Z7 car shampoo as the lube.
3. Wash with Z7, rinse and dry.
4. Apply Z1. Do not remove. No need to let dry.
5. Apply Z3.
6. Let the Z1/Z3 dry.
7. Polish off the excess Z1/Z3 with 100% cotton towels.
8. Wipe the car down with Z6, wipe dry, for a brilliant gloss.
Thereafter, after you wash your car, throw on a coat of Z3, let dry (dries quickly in most climates), and remove. Wipe on the Z6. When the car gets as glossy as you want, you can stop adding coats of Z3. I have ten coats of Z, but you only need one for protection purposes and the car will look great with just one.
But, after the initial session, putting on additional coats is, by comparison, easy, so some people put on great numbers of coats.
The great thing about Z is that you can just keep layering coats, as long as you allow enough curing time between coats. Sal Zaino says 24 hours. DK and I, and Ron, I believe, and others, think that auto protectant polymers continue to cure for longer than 24 hrs. I give a full week between coats . . . this allows the prior coat to get really hard, so I am building up layers.
[Edited by darbh on 08-09-2001 at 01:00 AM]
Zaino is easy to use. I highly recommend it. Your procedure would be:
Get the paint in shape as needed. You will need clean paint to start with. This may mean using a mild abrasive to remove oxidation (which happens with single stage paint).
1. Dawn wash
2. Clay, using Z7 car shampoo as the lube.
3. Wash with Z7, rinse and dry.
4. Apply Z1. Do not remove. No need to let dry.
5. Apply Z3.
6. Let the Z1/Z3 dry.
7. Polish off the excess Z1/Z3 with 100% cotton towels.
8. Wipe the car down with Z6, wipe dry, for a brilliant gloss.
Thereafter, after you wash your car, throw on a coat of Z3, let dry (dries quickly in most climates), and remove. Wipe on the Z6. When the car gets as glossy as you want, you can stop adding coats of Z3. I have ten coats of Z, but you only need one for protection purposes and the car will look great with just one.
But, after the initial session, putting on additional coats is, by comparison, easy, so some people put on great numbers of coats.
The great thing about Z is that you can just keep layering coats, as long as you allow enough curing time between coats. Sal Zaino says 24 hours. DK and I, and Ron, I believe, and others, think that auto protectant polymers continue to cure for longer than 24 hrs. I give a full week between coats . . . this allows the prior coat to get really hard, so I am building up layers.
[Edited by darbh on 08-09-2001 at 01:00 AM]
Brad B
New member
I have used Meguiars #20 polymer, Klasse Sealant and many, many different carnubas on my non-clearcoated Jag. They all work fine.
By the way, I used to own a '65 Corvair Corsa. They are fun cars.
http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=781637&a=13475239&p=51601589
By the way, I used to own a '65 Corvair Corsa. They are fun cars.
http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=781637&a=13475239&p=51601589
Brad B
New member
They usually send a terry applicator but I always use pure foam applicators.
ISLANDSBEST
New member
I use the cotton applicators that Sal sells. I find the cotton tuffs of the applicator usefull, because even on a supposedly clean car, I still pick up dirt on the applicator, and the cotton tuffs provide somewhere for the dirt to go.
Brad B
New member
darbh...
That might be somewhat true if the car was dirty. When applying any type of sealant, wax or compound to the car, the assumption is the car is already pre-washed and spotlessly clean. There should be absolutely no loose debris on the surface.
The reason to use foam applicators is that the surface that carries the application product is much more <strong class='bbc'>uniform[/b] and presents a much more consistant <strong class='bbc'>amount[/b], and <strong class='bbc'>pressure[/b] of product against the paint.
This is naturally much more important when applying compounds but comes into play using anything.
If you use terry for wax application be cautious to use <strong class='bbc'>very[/b] light application pressure since the nibs (which arent as soft as you think) provide uneven pressure points or "hot spots". Be sure to also replace the terry applicator often since it quickly saturates with product and deforms rather quickly.
That might be somewhat true if the car was dirty. When applying any type of sealant, wax or compound to the car, the assumption is the car is already pre-washed and spotlessly clean. There should be absolutely no loose debris on the surface.
The reason to use foam applicators is that the surface that carries the application product is much more <strong class='bbc'>uniform[/b] and presents a much more consistant <strong class='bbc'>amount[/b], and <strong class='bbc'>pressure[/b] of product against the paint.
This is naturally much more important when applying compounds but comes into play using anything.
If you use terry for wax application be cautious to use <strong class='bbc'>very[/b] light application pressure since the nibs (which arent as soft as you think) provide uneven pressure points or "hot spots". Be sure to also replace the terry applicator often since it quickly saturates with product and deforms rather quickly.
ISLANDSBEST
New member
Hi Brad B -- Thanks for the input. After throughly washing my car, the applicator still gets a bit dirty. I suspect that washing, at least with Z7 car wash shampoo, does not remove some road films, etc. from the paint and that this is what is accumulating on the polish applicator.
imported_Brad1
New member
Don...
I do compete on a national level with the Jag. And have with this Jag and a couple others for many years. I won a National Championship with my '66 Jaguar S-Type and the National XK Sculpture Award with my XK 150. All told, I have over 60 individual Jaguar Clubs North America Concours wins. I typically score in the 99.7 to 99.85 range.
Thanks for the compliments
I do compete on a national level with the Jag. And have with this Jag and a couple others for many years. I won a National Championship with my '66 Jaguar S-Type and the National XK Sculpture Award with my XK 150. All told, I have over 60 individual Jaguar Clubs North America Concours wins. I typically score in the 99.7 to 99.85 range.
Thanks for the compliments
No problem Brad. One thing though, if you think I didn't know your credentials, then I apologize for not expressing my attempt at kind sarcasm a bit more directly. Certainly, I'm aware of this. You are the man! I remember you won a recent big event within the past year. One of the few times that you've expressed one of your triumphs here. Remember, I do spend a LITTLE BIT of time here on this forum. A fact that one member, in particular, attempted to criticize. Anyhow I don't know if you remember this or not as you're getting up there with old age and all (Hehe!), but I often mention comments such as, "Even our resident Concours winner Brad B. uses Finesse It 2 on new cars. If its perfectly safe enough for him, then its certainly safe enough for you." Laters.
imported_Brad1
New member
Hehe! Thanks, Don.
imported_Luster
New member
This detail was for a wash and sealant only.
Pretty nice ride if you like customs. (I don't care for the headlights... old school custom, but I do like just about everything else.) 350 Crate Motor 350 RamJet. 370hp.
ONR wash
Blackfire Wet Diamond x2
Pretty nice ride if you like customs. (I don't care for the headlights... old school custom, but I do like just about everything else.) 350 Crate Motor 350 RamJet. 370hp.
ONR wash
Blackfire Wet Diamond x2
imported_broker99
New member
is that rear bumper off of a C4 vette?
imported_Jokeman
New member
bmw5541
New member
Bill,
I'm with you on those head lights. Other then that, the car kills.
Very nice work:clap:
I'm with you on those head lights. Other then that, the car kills.
Very nice work:clap:
Old Pirate
AMG Classic Car Detailing
Same here, lose the cover's and she's perfect! Great job Bill:clap: