Couple of question about applying polish/wax with PC

M

mark2003

New member
Im going to be using a PC for the first time pretty soon. I'll be putting on Z-PC followed by Z-2...Now im wondering how the procedure actually goes.



Do you work the Z-PC in till its all almost worked itself right into the paint, and then buff the remains with a cloth, or are you supposed to stop and buff off when its more of a haze?



Do you work a couple of feet of the car at a time, or should you go ahead and do the whole panel at once when using Z-PC?
 
I haven't used Z-PC myself, but if it's just like a typical polish, you'd work it until it's nearly clear. Until you can barely see it on the paint anymore. Buff it off right away after you're done working it.



Yes, work a couple square feet at a time. And be patient, move slow. The PC takes a while to break down polishes. Don't be afraid to use speed 6.
 
Agreed.....I opt for applying no additional pressure to the PC either, accept to manipulate its movement. I feel its plenty heavy on its own....Porter cable doesnt even recommend using additional pressure. (Im not sure if some of you other users are aware of this).
 
a.k.a. Patrick said:
Agreed.....I opt for applying no additional pressure to the PC either, accept to manipulate its movement. I feel its plenty heavy on its own....Porter cable doesnt even recommend using additional pressure. (Im not sure if some of you other users are aware of this).
Click to expand...





I have used the ZPC and I feel it is very user friendly, does dust quick similar to SSR2.5 but it does leave a very nice smooth finish to start the Z process. just remember to do a Z6 wipedown after you are happy with the ZPC finish on the whole car. I have to admit the no or very little ( for some scatches only) pressure approach has worked for me, maybe because I do not have too many very bad cases that I am working with. it just worries me to hear everbody using pressure all the time even for just lsp removal or applying over the entire car . the way I look at it you only have on cc. the Autopian motto is always use the least aggressive products/ pad combo you can get away with, some defects are just to deep to remove. I have read the article by Meguiars stating that you need to use pressure and it makes sense but 5-6 lbs all the time ? 20 lbs seems like a lot. yes the scratches are removed but if you do not have a paint thickness gauge to see where you started and where you are at how do you know how much cc is left ? guess I like to err on the side of caution. I would like to see people chime in to see their views as well. sorry did not try to hijack this thread
 
Thanks for the help :)



Another question...what do you guys do around those parts of the car where the whole pad is unable to be on the surface of the paint? Looking at my car, there are edges and such where it just wont be possible without only have like half of the pad touching the car. Do you just do those parts by hand?
 
It's ok to have only part of the pad in contact with the surface. Just be sure and reduce the pressure applied to compensate for the smaller contact area.
 
Black240SX said:
It's ok to have only part of the pad in contact with the surface. Just be sure and reduce the pressure applied to compensate for the smaller contact area.
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Is there a certain speed to run before polish is going to start spraying at me from the part of the pad thats not touching?
 
Oh yeah, it helps to reduce the speed by one or two settings. If possible, start the polisher in an open section, and then move into the narrow area. With a little practice, you shouldn't have any splatter.
 
It may also help to get some 4" pads and a 2.25" backing plate for the PC. It allows you to get into smaller areas pretty well.



Some areas you have to do by hand. There's no way around it.
 
White95Max said:
It may also help to get some 4" pads and a 2.25" backing plate for the PC. It allows you to get into smaller areas pretty well.



Some areas you have to do by hand. There's no way around it.
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Where have you found 2.25" plates? I have some 3" but smaller would be great.
 
a.k.a. Patrick said:
Agreed.....I opt for applying no additional pressure to the PC either, accept to manipulate its movement. I feel its plenty heavy on its own....Porter cable doesnt even recommend using additional pressure. (Im not sure if some of you other users are aware of this).
Click to expand...



Patrick,



Porter Cable's perspective comes from using the PC as a sander, not an automotive polisher.



Regardless of how Porter Cable designed the machine to be used, anyone using the PC as a serious tool to polish paint applies pressure. It's necessary to apply pressure in order to get enough friction to heat a cutting polish so that the abrasives will break down and polish out.



I agree that a "paint cleaner" polish like Z-PC does not require much friction to do its job, which is why it also works by hand.



db
 
mark2003 said:
Is there a certain speed to run before polish is going to start spraying at me from the part of the pad thats not touching?
Click to expand...



Generally, in my experience splatter isn't an issue with the PC unless you have too much product on the pad. I use the edge/etc. of the pad all the time, with the rest of the pad off the panel, and I only get splatter if I've used too much stuff. But I suppose the product in question will have a lot to do with this too.
 
DavidB said:
Patrick,



Porter Cable's perspective comes from using the PC as a sander, not an automotive polisher.



db
Click to expand...

Well...Actually this comes from the 7336sp model owners manual, which also comes equipped with a "white polishing pad" which we all have yet to find a use for. Not to be argumentative Dave, but users/owners manuals are a good starting point for advice.



Application products, and techniques all very from job to job. Some products advise against an occasional spritz of water in conjunction with there use. I had a concerned DIY'er the other day call and ask for some advice on a polish, I told him to use "an occasional spritz of water". He called me back several moments later to thank me for the advice as everything else he had tried, failed. The "occasional spritz of water" was successful for him (as it is for me).



As for anyone using the PC as a serious tool to polish paint applies pressure. It's necessary to apply pressure in order to get enough friction to heat a cutting polish so that the abrasives will break down and polish out. Its always been my belief that abrasives broke down with friction more so then with heat. And the heat is a by-product of friction. We can all attest to that just by the heat of the PC body itself, during its use.



I use the PC to remove defects, but without added pressure. My question is:

Would it be safer to step my product up one level of aggressivness (This may add one step in my polishing routine), step up my pad selection one level (this may add one additional step in my polishing routine), or add additional pressure to the PC (may risk premature pad failure or premature PC servicing) ?



My current status is, I have never suffered a pad failure (Except early days Megs pads, which were diagnosed with an adhesive problem and promptly replaced), an occasional additional polishing step has always been beneficial to my end product (avoidable? not really known), and after all this time (machine hrs) my PC finally needs some servicing (brushes).



Please dont regard this reply as argumentative, but as rather constructive learning. Quick summary, I dont apply additional pressure when polishing, have had great results, happy clients, and a machine that has lasted well over its recommended 100 hr "check up".

Although additional pressure is not recommended by the manufacturer, we all need to adjust our needs, for our purpose. We all hold our hamburgers a little differently, but hopefull, they all taste the same!
 
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