Corvettes/Fiberglass any different?

Bill must be on his break :smile:

Remember you're still just polishing paint. Vettes are typically very hard and I'd agree with Angelo i.e. M105/205.
 
Yeah, yeah, yeah!!! I'm here!

There's no difference in paint polishing on metal or fiberglas. (After 1982, fiberglas was replaced with a plastic material that they refer to as "composite".) So you're dealing with a composite material.

But, as stated above, Corvette paint for C5's and C6's is extremely hard and requires a lot of time and effort (slow passes/hard pressure) to correct swirls. M105/205 is definitely the ticket for late model Vettes.

The Vette-Master:drool5:
 
Hey Luster, what about pre 1982? My Mother-in-law has a 78 that looks like someone took 80 grit too the paint. Going to try to wet sand and polish with UDM and M105, is that an issue?
 
Composites such as SMR, fiberglass, and carbon fiber will not dissipate heat at the same rate as a metal such as steel or aluminum. This is more of an issue when polishing with a rotary as the panel will become warmer (because it is holding the heat longer).

With a DA you are not going to notice much of a difference.
 
th0001 said:
Composites such as SMR, fiberglass, and carbon fiber will not dissipate heat at the same rate as a metal such as steel or aluminum. This is more of an issue when polishing with a rotary as the panel will become warmer (because it is holding the heat longer).

With a DA you are not going to notice much of a difference.
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which is why i got pads specifically for fiberglass cuz mine is a 71
 
Indy YZF said:
Hey Luster, what about pre 1982? My Mother-in-law has a 78 that looks like someone took 80 grit too the paint. Going to try to wet sand and polish with UDM and M105, is that an issue?
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Up to '82 they were all fiberglas. However, the real issue is the condition of the paint. UDM + M105 should work great on it after wet-sanding.

Is it a Pace Car? Is the paint original? The paint on the '70's GM cars..... well.... let's just say it wasn't the best quality!

Don't get overly aggressive and don't expect perfection.

Try the M105 first with moderate pressure on a test patch... If it needs more, go to fairly heavy pressure. I'd only wet-sand as a last resort, because you're removing quite a bit of paint by doing that and unless you have a paint thickness guage for fiberglas (cost about $4-grand), you never know how thick or thin that old paint is.

Just saying to err on the side of caution.:biggrin:
 
It's definately a re-spray, a bad one at that. I'm going to try a small corner of the removable top, see how that goes, then try a corner of the hood.

Yeah I know what you mean about paint thickness, I'm going to go slow and try to remove as little as possible. I'll see if it even makes a difference, if not, then I won't bother.
 
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