Compounds aggressiveness, using Megs products

C

Cameronswmp9

New member
Im new to the world of paint correction, and wanting to dive in and do my truck and possibly the wifes truck. Truck is an 02 Suburban, 200k and been a family truckster the last two years, and the wifes is an 06 Pilot, 150k andfamily hauler before we bought it, and even moreso now.

In looking at the paint, there is micromarring and some swirls, but its not as bad as I really thought it would be for the age and miles. Mine is white so it will hide the imperfections better, hers is the Honda gold so it hides well, but shows some more. Hearing the Honda paint is soft and thin, I am a bit timid of jumping in hard with a M105/205 combo, didnt know if the Megs UC would be a bit less aggressive than the 105. Or if jumping straight to the polish to see if that would be a better choice?

Im not looking for perfection, with the use and the miles the only way to get perfect would be new paint, as there are some rock chips and deep scratches. She has a scuff from where someone drove the door into hers in a parking lot. Dented and all (I hate some people, disrespectful %&#$!!s)

I know starting as least aggressive is the policy, but without the experience this is a hard call to make.

Will be a DA, and will take opinions on pads for this as well. I am looking at the GG DA, have not purchased just yet. LSP probably Megs GC or some Black fire products.
 
Heres a chart to help. I just took Autopias big chart and cut everything but Megs out since thats what you want to use.

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RDKC said:
Heres a chart to help. I just took Autopias big chart and cut everything but Megs out since thats what you want to use.

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Im not set on Megs, that is what I have used for other things.

Ive read on other compounds and polishes, Monzerna and a few others, but have zero experience with how they are for cut, and I have been reading about them as well. I do know both will do a great job for the I tended purpose.

In fact, I saw this as a recommended thread, reading it now: http://www.autopia.org/forums/car-d...ernate-compounds-polishes-megs-m105-m205.html

Attached are pictures, on the phone they looked OK (just OK, not great) but here they look like it just shows the color not really the condition.
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Well, heres the thread that the whole chart I referenced is located:
http://www.autopia.org/forums/paint...d-9-2015-autopia-polish-comparison-chart.html

I am far from the best around here and I still havent tried too many different products but, I can say that I started with Meguiars UC and UP and they were a pretty great product to learn with. They should be effective enough for what I can see in those pictures (though I cant see much. Nice to see Im not the only one that cant capture the defects on light paint. ;) )

My first DA polish ever was with a GG6, Megs UC on LC Orange flat pads. It definitely took a lot of my hesitation out after those results.

Youre headed in the right direction though, watch videos on youtube, read around the forums and go for it. There are so many options that I wouldnt think itd be too easy to make the "wrong" choice.
 
Id say start with the least aggressive and work your way up. Depending on your DA you shouldnt have any issues using M105 without a paint thickness gage, IMHO (not a promise but Ive risked worse before).

It all boils down to how effective your technique is and how soft that clear is.
 
For what you want as a result I highly recommend the da system from Meguiars. Top it off with the wax or sealant of your choice. Much easier to use and will get the results you want.
 
So first off.. Welcome to the wide world of Detailing.
In answer to your question : The Poorboy SSR 4oz. sample kit, it starts out at very light cut #1 thru heavy cut #3, the #3 very effective with long work time which as a beginner myself works.
HD has an 8oz set, HD cut & HD polish both my favorites, long work times, easy to wipe off plus pad dependent.
BriteMax has some goodies too, the MaxShine sealant yeah ! Poly, Monton wax, & Nuba all in1.
Megs microfiber pads gotta be the best.
Buff & shine microfiber pad is my DA choice.
Just some in a vast selection. ;)
 
Some hints/tips when before polishing with a compound:
1) Clean and treat/seal plastic/vinyl trim pieces first. You can use an All-Purpose Cleaner (APC) like Megs Detailer Line D101) to thoroughly clean with a brush, wipe it down with a damp microfiber cloth, and then seal it with a trim protectant/sealant/restorer Like Megs over-the-counter (OTC) Ultimate Black Trim Protectant or Poorboys World Trim Restorer, or Aerospace 303 Vinyl Protectant). Makes follow-up cleaning of trim easier.
2) If you DO not clean trim, then I would suggest taping trim edges and rubber seals with painters tape (3M Blue or even masking tape in a pinch)., rubber seals especially! These will blacken your pads if you get on them during polishing . If youve used a trim sealant first, you will find that the tape will not adhere (stick) properly.

Thats why some detailers DO NOT clean trim, but tape it instead; others clean and seal it, forgoing the tape of vinyl trim.

3) Tape all chrome vehicle make and model or option level notation (like "TL" or "SS" or "Platinum") emblems/decal edges/stainless edge guards/ These emblems can grab your pad and rip it up and you do not want to get compound in them, as it can be difficult to remove.
4) When applying compound to your pad, DO NOT overdo it to start. There are pad-priming techniques that you will become experienced in. also , some mist the pad with water or a quick detailer to aid in lubrication and distribution of the compound. If you get the pad too wet, when you start the PC or DA that you are using, it will sling/splatter excessive compound/water everywhere. its just some thing you will need to learn and master, depending on the make of the compound you choose.
5) Start your PC or DA at a slow speed and work you way up. What speed to work up to and how much pressure to push down on the PC/Da are , again, all things you will need to learn and master, depending on:
a) Pad choice
b) Compound manufacturer and grit size
c) how much you have to correct (Like deep scratches or just major swirls)
d) Hardness or softness of the clear-coat (or paint, if its an older vehicle with single-stage paint) or if an area has been repainted, which may "react" differently than an original clear-coat/paint.

Its not as "easy" at it looks to just start using a PC/DA on a vehicle; kind of like golfing for the first time. it just take hands-on experience and practice. The more you do it, the better you will get. You just need to start doing it.

6) After compounding or polishing, clean the polished surfaces with a cleaner to remove lubricating oils that are in some compounds or polishes. Megs M205 is notorious for its Trade Secrete Oils (TSOs) and these can cause "compatibility" problems with your Last-Step Product (LSP or better known as wax/sealant/coating). If youve taped, remove the tape.
To clean your car you can:
a) Wipe down with a dedicated oil removing cleaner like CarPros Erase
b) Wipe down with 70% isopropyl alcohol (IPA), (Yes, its rubbing alcohol like you get from the drug store) I prefer this method because its cheap and time-saving.
c) Rewash the vehicle with car soap-and-APC mix again. This last one is the best way to do it because you also remove any polishing dust from every where on the vehicle.

Its a lot of work and effort, but the results will speak for themselves and produce the WOW-factor and you will garner comments like "what do you use on your car?" from car admirers. Its all in the prep work, and not just a simple wash-n-wax that separate the good looking cars from the stop-and-stare cars.
 
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