compound question

M

mustanginky

New member
okay guys, i've used a PC for about 2 years. Have used Poorboys SSR 2.5 and 1 with good results with a 6.5" pad. Just bought some 4" pads in yellow, orange, white, and black.



Of course now i'm looking for some compound, i've heard good things about Megs 105, reasonably priced. Of course, lots of Menzerna and Optimum guys around as well. So what's your take? can i keep my SSR's and use them for follow up for haze removal? the 2.5 and 1 just aren't getting rid of my deeper scratches and RIDS.



thanks for any advice, i don't post much here but certainly use the search function alot.



also if you can provide any advice on good quick detailers, i know this isn't the right section, but throw it in there with your other advice, i won't tattle to the mods :)
 
mustanginky said:
...i'm looking for some compound, i've heard good things about Megs 105, reasonably priced. Of course, lots of Menzerna and Optimum guys around as well. So what's your take? can i keep my SSR's and use them for follow up for haze removal?
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Almost certainly. The hazing from M105 isn't all *that* deep.
 
While keep in mind that there are so many great compounds out there. Although I use Ardex almost exclusively, I would have to say that you can find in my cabinet, M105, Hi lustre finish-it which is a great product. I have heard exceptional things about menzerna as well. If i could make a suggestion by a few sanplers and play with them then fins something you like and stick with it! Good luck on your adventure.
 
Get some M105, because you can always learn how to implement the Kevin Brown Method for outstanding cut and a great finish.



BTW, what exactly to you want a quick detailer to be for? For taking off bird crap, etc, I use ONR. For just touching up the car after a wash, I use DoDo Juice Red Mist.
 
3M Fine Cut Compound works great. I've used 2.5 before and after you try 3M you'll never go back to PB. I have only seen hazing w/it once before but it was after my 3rd pass so it was expected. 3M products are great so far.
 
mustanginky- Eh...I don't use QDs for that. Too great a chance of marring the paint.



xspwrstang said:
3M Fine Cut Compound works great. I've used 2.5 before and after you try 3M you'll never go back to PB. I have only seen hazing w/it once before but it was after my 3rd pass so it was expected. 3M products are great so far.
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If you mean the PI-II Fine Cut Rubbing Compound, remember that it uses silca-based abrasives and thus requires the use of a proper mask. Silica can kill you dead just like asbestos and while the PI-II FCRC does work OK, I've quit using it. To be honest, I liked the PI-III RC 05933 better anyhow, but that stuff's getting hard to find.
 
Accumulator said:
mustanginky- Eh...I don't use QDs for that. Too great a chance of marring the paint.







If you mean the PI-II Fine Cut Rubbing Compound, remember that it uses silca-based abrasives and thus requires the use of a proper mask. Silica can kill you dead just like asbestos and while the PI-II FCRC does work OK, I've quit using it. To be honest, I liked the PI-III RC 05933 better anyhow, but that stuff's getting hard to find.
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im with accumulator on this. i love 3m. but thats what i learned with and have used since so im biased. i use PI-III RC followed with the SMR and then UF. ill use their extra cut if the car needs serious help. and i usually wear a mask any time i compound, silica or no silica. not a fan of breathing that dust.
 
5150kon said:
.. i usually wear a mask any time i compound, silica or no silica. not a fan of breathing that dust.
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I sure won't argue with that. Just breathing the buffed-off paint probably isn't good. Not that I wear a mask myself, but that's just *my* stupidity :o
 
Bumping this thread up. I'm having the exact same problem as the OP. I spent 3 hours polishing the hood of my G35 with PB SSR 2.5/1 and it just wouldnt finish down. I'm contemplating M105/205 just because of KB Method can help speed things up.
 
Menzerna or Presta for 1500 grit correction of small scratches and marring. Of course friction plays a role in any paint correction and the ability to use a power polisher. The da may take longer thats why I dont own one ....TIME is money! It is what it is. Sometimes I use Ardex for dark colors then seal.
 
paintxpert said:
... The da may take longer thats why I dont own one...
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Eh...the people posting on this thread aren't gonna buy/learn/master a rotary; they need some solution that'll work out for them with what they already have.



No reason at all why somebody can't get great results via DA, just takes the right products. In the time it takes to learn the rotary, many people can do three lifetimes' worth of correction with their PCs.



For pros it's different, though a whole lotta pros (who previously swore by their rotaries) are now using DAs given the recent changes in products.
 
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