Collinite's 476S Super Doublecoat Auto Wax Review

LangMan37 said:
anyone layer another paste or liquid carnuaba over collinate? Something like nattys or #16/#26 or souveran? Would these be the best of both worlds? Protection and beauty :nixweiss



I put some Insulator wax over the 476. Looks good. :)
 
I did Souveran over 476S (spitshine method) on the Volvo we used to have. It must've made a difference as my wife came in, looked at it, and said it never looked that nice before (she doesn't offer BS compliments ;) ). It was pretty subtle though, and I wasn't sure if I was only seeing an improvement because I wanted to until she said something.
 
thanks for the review!!!

can someone review the collinite cleaner wax? 870 or



#ss-126 Liquid Sapphire Auto Wax



This heavy duty, DETERGENT PROOF formulation cleans, waxes and protects the finish in one easy application. Removes all foreign elements from paint while leaving a brilliant protective coating that assures protection from salt, rain, bugs, tree sap, etc. An occasional hand or mechanical washing will maintain its gleaming luster.
 
Does anybody have a comparison with photos between results with Nattys (or Nattys Blue) and a Collinite wax?

I've Nattys in my black car (I preffer Nattys than Nattys Blue, I sold it), and I'm using EX-P as sealant. I'm thinking about this process:

1.- Seal with EX-P;

2.- Wax with 476S x 2 (it will fill the mini-swrils that I have now);

3- Wax with Nattys x 2: It will add more depth, wet look and mores flakes.

A question: Does 476S, or Insulator Wax, acts as sealant? If affirmative, what is the point of using EX-P?

I thought that the seal process is with a sinthetic wax, and the waxing with a natural wax. Could anybody explain the difference?

Thanks !!
 
maesal said:
Does anybody have a comparison with photos between results with Nattys (or Nattys Blue) and a Collinite wax?

I've Nattys in my black car (I preffer Nattys than Nattys Blue, I sold it), and I'm using EX-P as sealant. I'm thinking about this process:

1.- Seal with EX-P;

2.- Wax with 476S x 2 (it will fill the mini-swrils that I have now);

3- Wax with Nattys x 2: It will add more depth, wet look and mores flakes.

A question: Does 476S, or Insulator Wax, acts as sealant? If affirmative, what is the point of using EX-P?

I thought that the seal process is with a sinthetic wax, and the waxing with a natural wax. Could anybody explain the difference?

Thanks !!



As you know sealants are more durable than organic waxes such as carnuabas, but sealants lack the warmth associated with old school carnuabas. Also, sealants pose a problems for professional detailers in that they must wait a day for it to cure before they can layer it with a coat of carnauba for that finishing touch. So, this is where Collinite 476S or 845IW comes in, the durability of a polymer sealant and the warmth of a carnuaba ! I usually use NXT as sealant to bring out the darker color on my red paint and top it with 845IW or 476S depending on the season.
 
no photos, but right now for lsp's I have 476s * 1 + 845iw * 2 + natty's blue * 1 on nighthawk black pearl. the 476s alone is sharp and cold and pretty. adding 845iw adds a bit of depth and warmth. natty's puts it over the top. looks terrific. for now. I have some fx100 and 425 and pinkwax to try next.
 
maesal said:
Then, do you think that Collinites are very similar to S100/P21S in looking?



Let's see if I can explain my take on this....I haven't used P21S all that much but to me it looks a lot like Meguiar's #16, which I *do* use a lot. The P21s might look a little better, but they're close, very reflective and "clean" looking for carnauba.



I had #16 on my wife's silver A8, it looked great. I decided to put 476S over top of it for added protection in the winter. It muted the look, really made it look far less impressive. I was kinda shocked at how much worse it looked, as I really like 476S. I was so disappointed that this last winter I just stayed with the #16.



I still like 476S but that was a real eye-opener for me. I'm *still* surprised that the 476S disappointed me so much....but that won't stop me from putting it on some of our cars ;)
 
Accumulator said:
Let's see if I can explain my take on this....I haven't used P21S all that much but to me it looks a lot like Meguiar's #16, which I *do* use a lot. The P21s might look a little better, but they're close, very reflective and "clean" looking for carnauba.



I had #16 on my wife's silver A8, it looked great. I decided to put 476S over top of it for added protection in the winter. It muted the look, really made it look far less impressive. I was kinda shocked at how much worse it looked, as I really like 476S. I was so disappointed that this last winter I just stayed with the #16.



I still like 476S but that was a real eye-opener for me. I'm *still* surprised that the 476S disappointed me so much....but that won't stop me from putting it on some of our cars ;)



My god... I'm very surprised about this opinion... And, how many months does #16 will survive? Could it be a 476S competitor in duration?
 
Accumulator said:
I had #16 on my wife's silver A8, it looked great. I decided to put 476S over top of it for added protection in the winter. It muted the look, really made it look far less impressive. I was kinda shocked at how much worse it looked, as I really like 476S. I was so disappointed that this last winter I just stayed with the #16.



surprising, indeed. you know it's been a while since I've applied #16 as my lsp and I've been wondering how I'll feel about it when I try it again. maybe I'll try a little test on the jeep. it has a single layer of 476s now and used to look pretty darned good with #16. perhaps I'll top the 476s with #16 and see if I have a similar problem - now I'm kind of wondering about 845iw as well.



do you suppose reversing the order of application would make a significant difference in appearance (#16 over 476s v. 476s over #16)? if so, it would be yet another definitive statement about actually layering carnubas. looks like I already know what this weekend's 'unexpected' project will be.
 
First off, don't get too stressed about my disappointment as explained above, it was just a FYI and one that's merely one person's take on a single situation. It was one of those direct comparisons on a paint I *know* and I doubt if most other people would've seen it the same way. Still, *I* did.



I've had good results topping 476S with spit-shined Souveran. But I dunno if mixing up the order of #16 and 476S will make any difference, I kinda doubt it but I'd put the 476S on first if you want to try it. Actualy, it just *might* work out really well, no way to tell until you try.



Actually, the least two cars I did with 476S looked great with just that on it, so again, don't write it off just because of what I saw on the A8. Note that I found KSG unacceptable on that paint too, I'm really fussy about Audi silver and I've seen that particular paint looking the way I like it forever and a day so I'm perhaps uniquely opinionated about it (and you know what they say about opinions anyhow).



#16 can't compete with 476S when it comes to durability. #16 isn't bad, but 476S is in a whole 'nother league.



marko- Heh heh, I sincerely doubt that when you used 476S instead of the #16 you were disappointed, right? If you don't see a problem then don't worry about what I saw.
 
nonono. you're absolutely right. it would take far more effort than I'm willing to extend to find a way to be disappointed in collinite, but it's too late. the thought's already been planted in my mind (and I have an open tin of #16).



ok, I take that back now that I think about it. from time to time over summer months I'm somewhat disappointed that topping collinite with something else alters those amazing beads. does that count?
 
marko said:
it has a single layer of 476s now and used to look pretty darned good with #16. perhaps I'll top the 476s with #16 and see if I have a similar problem.



Sorry marko, I don't understanf that, my english is a bit limited... could you explain it in other way? I don't know about your comments if you prefer 476s or #16 looking. What does darned mean? And LSP (I read the acronyms, but I don't see that...)?

I was thinking about topping 476S with P21S, I hope I won't have any problem.

Thanks !!
 
maesal said:
Sorry marko, I don't understanf that, my english is a bit limited... could you explain it in other way? I don't know about your comments if you prefer 476s or #16 looking. What does darned mean? And LSP (I read the acronyms, but I don't see that...)?

I was thinking about topping 476S with P21S, I hope I won't have any problem.

Thanks !!



Hope Marko doesn't mind my answering.



He's saying that he really liked how it looked with the #16 and he's worried that it might not look as good now (with the 476S). He's considering putting #16 over the 476S to see how it looks.



"Darned" = polite way of saying "damned". Here, both mean "rather"- Pretty darned good = very good.
 
Accumulator said:
Hope Marko doesn't mind my answering.



He's saying that he really liked how it looked with the #16 and he's worried that it might not look as good now (with the 476S). He's considering putting #16 over the 476S to see how it looks.



"Darned" = polite way of saying "damned". Here, both mean "rather"- Pretty darned good = very good.



Thanks man !! You're also my new english teacher :hifive:

I'll try maybe P21S over 476S.

Thanks again !!
 
many thanks for the clarification. I'm telling you... some days I wonder where my press secretary went.



I've never tried p21s, but I'm a big fan of 476s and 845iw and #16 and have a reasonable cache of each. (probably more than my fair share of 845iw and definitely more #16 than I deserve.) then, of course, accumulator mentioned a variation (476s over #16) I've never tried, so aside from translating my meaning he also presented me with a little experiment for the weekend. right now I have 476s alone on a gunmetal grey metallic jeep, so I'm going to top it with #16 and then add another layer of 476s to test.



I like 476s as a stand-alone last step product (lsp). I also like 845iw by itself, and 476s under 845iw is pretty standard fare for my cars through the winter or if I'm unable to detail as often as I'd like. #16 over nxt was my choice for frost white, but I had to lose that car a couple of years ago.



I've never really found a flaw with any of these products and have been using them all for years, so I'm curious. at the very least, I'll have plenty of incredibly durable wax on the jeep, which my girlfriend regularly neglects when I travel. so it's all good.



just nobody mention another combination - at least until after the weekend.
 
marko said:
right now I have 476s alone on a gunmetal grey metallic jeep, so I'm going to top it with #16 and then add another layer of 476s to test..



I'll look forward to hearing what you think after you do that.



maesal- Similar to the above, I'd like to hear what you think the P21s does/doesn't add to the 476S.
 
Just thought I would add my "mini review":



I applied 476s for the first time yesterday, and did a side-by-side comparison on my hood with one of the OTC products that tout "long lasting". Both products were applied with a first coat by hand, second coat a day later with PC and finishing pad. Time will tell on the durability, but upon initial comparison, the 476s is much slicker, smoother to the touch. Visually it is much crisper and reflective.... the OTC product almost appears hazy in comparison. And beading? OMG! Unbelievable compared to the OTC product! Water just rolls right off the car! The difference is amazing.



I found the 476s product fairly hard to work with though.... the tin opening is small, and difficult to get onto the PC pad. Removal was not difficult with a Supreme MF, and I also tried using the Griots cotton cloths, which I almost liked better for removal. It was much easier to feel where the wax was removed with the cotton cloth than with the MF. Dunno, maybe just my imagination, or I'm just "old school".



Bottom line: Initial impression - Great performing wax with good visual properties (compared to OTC product). Hopefully durability is as good as I have read!
 
Cotton has not completely been superseded by MF I still use it to break the hazy wax coating on some cars where the wax just doesn't seem to want to budge after I've applied it. Then I buff off the remaining oils and residue with a MF.



I certainly am not disappointed with the collinites. So far I have 476s on top of every 845. Only because I didn't feel like removing and repolishing the rest of my truck. On my hood is 7 coats of pure 476s, it's still going strong at 1 week, and is very cat proof.
 
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