Collinite Woes

dschribs

dschribs

New member
845 is my favorite wax of all time. Bulletproof, easy on, easy off and lasts forever. Never had any issues w it whatsoever...except now. I hand applied a coat on my new vehicle about a week ago. I was away on business the past few days so I haven`t had a chance to take a good look at it in the sun until now.

Streaks galore....ugh...What the????

What do you guys think caused this. Never had any problems like this w 845 in the past.

4f8e565b1a03415521c297e1e1ad089b.jpg


9db50e28b832789b67b9c7be9c23179d.jpg


Sent from my SM-T810 using Tapatalk
 
of you didnt ise a rotary, the wax disolved the dealers glaze and youre seeing the true condidtio
 
Why did this happen? Any ideas?? It couldn`t have been glaze being removed since I asked the vehicle not be detailed. Also, the paint was flawless when i initially looked at the car on the lot so no one polished the vehicle or hit it with a rotary.

Sent from my SM-T810 using Tapatalk
 
dschribs said:
Why did this happen? Any ideas?? It couldn`t have been glaze being removed since I asked the vehicle not be detailed. Also, the paint was flawless when i initially looked at the car on the lot so no one polished the vehicle or hit it with a rotary.

Sent from my SM-T810 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...


Still bettin something was done to it before you got it.
 
So your prep work was just wash it?

No decon or claybar/claytowel?

Wipe down with something like Car Pro Eraser, etc., just before applying the Collinite ?

If no to the above, then you were probably moving around stuff stuck to your paintwork...

It didn`t show when you were waxing it ?
Dan F
 
dschribs said:
Why did this happen? Any ideas?? It couldn`t have been glaze being removed since I asked the vehicle not be detailed. Also, the paint was flawless when i initially looked at the car on the lot so no one polished the vehicle or hit it with a rotary.

Sent from my SM-T810 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

When you ran your clean dry hand over the paintwork was it glass smooth?
If not, then there was a lot of stuff stuck to it still...

It might have left the Factory perfectly clean, but how long and how far did it go in the wind, sit outside in lots, etc., before you touched it ?
That will affect the real cleanliness of the paint..

In my experiences with purchasing new vehicles, the paint is Always dirty with embedded gunk..
I have always had to claybar/claytowel it, polish it again, and then it is really clean like right after it was painted and cured...

Dan F
 
dschribs- I too think there must`ve been something on it...what *exactly* did you do for prep before applying the 845?

And just FWIW, I`ve had dealerships (who didn`t get any more of my business ;) ) do all sorts of stuff to vehicles and deny it, just lied to my face and/or made up crazy interpretations of what was said.

That "the paint was flawless" makes me wonder...unless you removed the transit wrap/whatever yourself I`d be utterly astounded if it was genuinely flawless. I mean...*one* wash by most any dealership will leave some kind of marring, especially when you factor in whatever they used to remove the wrap residue.
 
Ok - so a follow up....

To answer some questions that were previously raised - Prior to applying the 845 I gave the paint the "baggie test" (credit to Mike Phillips here). The paint was smooth as glass. The vehicle is a 2017 and was only on the lot for three days before I grabbed it. So since it didn`t need to be clayed - I washed it and hit it w 845.

So I washed it again today and hoped for the best. No such luck.... Accumulator and Ronkh - looks like you were right....as always. Rotary swirls. Incredible. After I told them not to detail it. I should have known once I saw the dealership sticker stuck on the back. They only put those on in the detail shop.

So - I`m a bit nervous here about removing these swirls/holograms given all the posts about "hard" GM clear coat. My first thought is to hit it w 3D HD polish and a LC white pad and see if that does it. Thoughts?

I do know that Black Hole is on my "buy list" after reading so many good things about it on black paint.
 
@dschribs
Where you located?
You may luck out and have an Autopian close by that could help you with the tools you need.
 
I have never understood the baggie test to determine the smoothness of paintwork.. I will never do it either... Or grit guards... :)

All the years in auto painting - even when I was a kid, they used their clean, bare, dry, hand, to feel the paint, feel for defects, dips, high places, the tiniest bit of roughness on that little spot, used their fingertips too..

Putting your hand in a baggie and trying to really feel paintwork to me is like taking a shower with a raincoat on...

If the idea behind the plastic barrier is to make your hand move more "smoothly" across the panel, shouldn`t you be wondering WHY it won`t move smoothly without the plastic barrier in the first place???

Is something already on that spot that needs to be removed before you go further ???

I suppose, wearing the barrier between your most sensitive hand and fingertips, you can still feel big objects, but will you really be able to feel the tiniest things in the paint?

I was taught to go down a panel with the above clean, dry, bare, hand, eyes closed, and find all the defects in it.. Now we`re talking...

Going back a few thousand years to the Romans, exactly how did they make such beautifully polished, smoother than anything in the world stonework, without plastic bags??? :)
Dan F
 
Stokdgs said:
I have never understood the baggie test to determine the smoothness of paintwork.. I will never do it either...

Putting your hand in a baggie and trying to really feel paintwork to me is like taking a shower with a raincoat on...

If the idea behind the plastic barrier is to make your hand move more "smoothly" across the panel, shouldn`t you be wondering WHY it won`t move smoothly without the plastic barrier in the first place???

I suppose, wearing the barrier between your most sensitive hand and fingertips, you can still feel big objects, but will you really be able to feel the tiniest things in the paint?

I was taught to go down a panel with the above clean, dry, bare, hand, eyes closed, and find all the defects in it.. Now we`re talking...

Dan F
Click to expand...

Could be a personal preference thing or even a mental/placebo thing , my Body Shop teacher`s technique was to train the hand by running it flat back and forth on a clean piece of glass to develop the "technique"/ hand sensitivity to imperfections.

I`ve never done a baggie test, but have used nitrile gloves instead even when I was doing body work. To me, it heightens the tactile feel for more isolated things sticking above the flat paint surface, my theory/guess is that since our hands are textured,the bag (or glove in my case) creates a non textured base that "triggers" a feeling easier upon running over a bump/dirt/particle. If I use my (Edit:bare) hand for feeling (Edit:paint contaminants),the oils cause it to drag , hence the preference for gloves at times.Edit: If I was sanding primer and bondo, a glove gave me a better feel for the surface because the loose dust would "clog" my bare hand and interfere with the sensitivity.

That`s just my experience and what has worked for me.
 
If you buy a car from a dealer, it has a glaze on it unless you put a gun to their head and demand they don`t.
While you are in with the finance guy, the car is in detail department where hacks do what they are trained to do.
 
Combination of not having the solvent integrated with the wax, plus leaving it on too long. At least, that`s exactly what Collinite told me 3 years ago when I had a similar problem.
 
This is why I say I use a Clean, dry, bare hand to go over panels.. There will be no oils in the hand to make it drag.. :)

If there is drag after all that, then again, what is on the paintwork that is causing the drag?

That is what I am looking for (and hoping I don`t find it) to remove and then, have as much a pristine panel surface on that area as possible..

Now after a thorough light inspection, a great wipe down with an appropriate paint cleaner, you can apply an LSP and have the greatest chance it will all turn out beautifully, with no "surprises" later... :)

In the Bodywork part, to get past the sanding dust on the panel interfering with my clean bare dry hand, , I used clean, dry, filtered, air to blow it all off first..
Then the final, wet sanding with a block and a guidecoat = perfectly flat, smooth, panels ready for paint..
DanF
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top