collinite vs wheel wax

Marj

New member
I use collinite on my wheels but I've been wondering if a wheel wax will last longer and worth the expense?
 
Not a "wheel wax", but I quit using Collinite on wheels in favor of FK1000P, which does last longer for me. Not as long as heavily layered KSG, let alone OptiCoat (which lasts an incredibly long time!), but it was a nice improvement over the Collinite.



If you're using 845, you could try layering it. I doubted whether it'd work/make a diff, but after I tried it I decided that it really was worth doing. I'd wait a while between coats, like at least overnight. 476S does layer for me on the rest of the car if I do the coats a while apart (like, after each of a series of regularly-scheduled washes), but I've never tried doing it on wheels that I can recall.
 
Save your money, the dedicated wheel products don't have any sort of durability. Collinite is good, but I find something with cleaners works better to get the wheel glossy and removes tar/brake dust. DG501 is a great wheel sealant and cleaner. It can make it 4-6 months.
 
I used to use fk1000, but it's sort of point less for me, I just keep them clean. If you want to coat them then use OC, 22PLE metal and rim coating, etc.
 
Gotta go with what Guitarist says. Have Opticoat on my GS 400 rims, factory powder painted, nothing sticks and easy to clean after more than a year. If I want to make them nicer looking, I use either Griots Speed Shine or FK 425 detailer as a topper.
 
I gave up on "wheel Waxes" I use a QD with polymers (OID) or AW on my wheels . They are factory clear coat/painted in some areas and machine finish in others areas. Works for me >>>>
 
Yeah, OptiCoat is great for this. I have it on the Tahoe's rims and will gradually put it on most, if not all, of the others too.



Guitarist302008 said:
I used to use fk1000, but it's sort of point less for me, I just keep them clean..



Could you expand upon that? I like how the FK1000P both helps keep them clean (e.g., between washes), makes them easier to clean (better dirt-shedding), and keeps them sharper-looking than when they're "bare" (I also spritz with FK425 after cleaning).
 
Another option is to Opti-Seal them after each wash...it's really fast and easy to do, and there is no risk of "oops I missed a spot" dried sealant/wax in crevices as OS is clear. It may not be as effective long term like 476s or FK1000p, but it is so easy to do you can do it every wash.
 
I use DG 105 on the wheels, including the barrels, and get 4-6 months out of an application. Makes them really easy to clean with normal car wash solution.
 
kapflaco said:
Another option is to Opti-Seal them after each wash......so easy to do you can do it every wash.



I've thought about doing something like that, and I have a *lot* of Garry Dean's BIS (long story...). Problem is that almost all of my wheels retain water, getting every last bit of it dried won't be happening. Is the Opti-Seal water-sensitive? My BIS doesn't like water until it's set up for a while.



Yeah, something quick and easy has a lot going for it. Much as I love how the OptiCoat works on wheels, it's sure a big job to do it (right)
 
Accumulator said:
Yeah, OptiCoat is great for this. I have it on the Tahoe's rims and will gradually put it on most, if not all, of the others too.







Could you expand upon that? I like how the FK1000P both helps keep them clean (e.g., between washes), makes them easier to clean (better dirt-shedding), and keeps them sharper-looking than when they're "bare" (I also spritz with FK425 after cleaning).



it's just a lot of trouble to wax my wheels which have a lot of spokes and a lot of small crevices. I'd rather just clean them with an APC.
 
I know what you mean about retaining water...my e39 530i has has the 3 bbs piece wheels with all the spokes...always water hangin' round after a wash and dry. IMHO that's what makes OS so good for this use...there's no chance of milky white mess from using the LSP on a surface that's not perfectly dry. Try it some time...it's my favorite use for OS besides glass and door jambs.
 
try transfering a bit of OC to a small finger pump spray bottle or an airbrush to get a nice even coat of OC on difficult rims. i bet it would work.
 
Guitarist302008- I hear you on those spokes, my older Audi has the original-style BBS wheels.



kapflaco- Ah, OK, thanks for the info about OS being OK with the residual water.
 
Accumulator said:
Guitarist302008- I hear you on those spokes, my older Audi has the original-style BBS wheels.



kapflaco- Ah, OK, thanks for the info about OS being OK with the residual water.



mine are the OE 2012 WRX wheels... indeed lots of spokes :(
 
When car shopping, I try to avoid those busy wheels. Man do BBS LMs look great, but no way, no how... on a daily driver.....
 
Dan- Yeah, I tend to put simple-to-detail wheels on everything, but that old Audi just looks *perfect* (in a time-capsule sense) with the original BBS's on it.



You don't want to know what it cost to refinish two sets of them (and they didn't even turn out as good as I'd hoped for!) or how hard it was to find nice centercaps; they only made a few of the late-model V8s and their BBS wheels are subtly different.



I really oughta OptiCoat them one of these days when I, uhm....don't have anything better to do :o
 
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