Collinite 915 and 476 Side-By-Side Comparo

Accumulator said:
EdLancer- Heh heh, I go on so much about FK1000P that when I read "I read somewhere that.." I wonder if you`re teasin` :D

Yeah, I`ve switched from Collinite to the FK1000P for everything except that underneath stuff on the one Audi. That car *did* look better with the 476S, but I needed the additional benefits of the FK.

Huh, seems funny that it`s hard to find in Canada, but eh...what do I know about that?!?

I wonder if they slightly different stories they told us are just a matter of how Things Always Change...when did you talk with them? For me it was back before the VOC regs kicked in (bought a case of pre-VOC 476S that I`ll never use up :o ).
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I just wish someone made an FK1000P that applied as easily and reliably as 845. I still have occasions where I apply FK1000P and its done for in two weeks. Other times it lasts 3+ months. The thing I love about 1000P is it does what all the coatings say they do (but really don`t).
 
Accumulator said:
EdLancer- Heh heh, I go on so much about FK1000P that when I read "I read somewhere that.." I wonder if you`re teasin` :D

Yeah, I`ve switched from Collinite to the FK1000P for everything except that underneath stuff on the one Audi. That car *did* look better with the 476S, but I needed the additional benefits of the FK.

Huh, seems funny that it`s hard to find in Canada, but eh...what do I know about that?!?

I wonder if they slightly different stories they told us are just a matter of how Things Always Change...when did you talk with them? For me it was back before the VOC regs kicked in (bought a case of pre-VOC 476S that I`ll never use up :o ).
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If I recall it was around spring 2005.
I sold out most of my Collinite inventory and with the horrible Canadian exchange rate haven`t ordered much in the past year.
I still have a stash of Meg`s #16 for my own collection ;)
 
Dan- I still find it *SO* odd that your FK1000P experiences can vary so much! More of that YMMV stuff...

I can`t really compare it coatings as I`ve only used those on wheels, but it really is simply amazing to me how well it lasts, protects, and sheds dirt...never used any LSP that does those things as well, certainly not with just 2-3 coats.

EdLancer said:
If I recall it was around spring 2005...
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OK, IIRC that was a bit after I talked with them.

..I still have a stash of Meg`s #16 for my own collection ;)
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Same here, but I keep hoping somebody will buy it all. Sold a tin or two on ebay and a little more to some Autopians but still have way too much left :(
 
Accumulator said:
Dan- I still find it *SO* odd that your FK1000P experiences can vary so much! More of that YMMV stuff...

I can`t really compare it coatings as I`ve only used those on wheels, but it really is simply amazing to me how well it lasts, protects, and sheds dirt...never used any LSP that does those things as well, certainly not with just 2-3 coats.
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Yeah, I wish I could narrow it down to what is causing the issue because I simply love the results. Dirt and bugs just do not stick to the stuff. Washing is just fun. I don`t have those moments of "hmm, can I get away with scrubbing this a bit more or should I leave it and get it with bug remover later?"
 
Accumulator said:
Dan- I still find it *SO* odd that your FK1000P experiences can vary so much! More of that YMMV stuff...

I can`t really compare it coatings as I`ve only used those on wheels, but it really is simply amazing to me how well it lasts, protects, and sheds dirt...never used any LSP that does those things as well, certainly not with just 2-3 coats.



OK, IIRC that was a bit after I talked with them.



Same here, but I keep hoping somebody will buy it all. Sold a tin or two on ebay and a little more to some Autopians but still have way too much left :(
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Is that you on eBay asking for $90usd a tin ? ...LoL
 
Dan- Yeah, taking that whole "bug/bird etching" thing off the table is a biggie for me too.

They *did* once have a presumably idiot-proof liquid version, but some Critical Ingredient became unavailable before I got into their stuff.

On the variable durability thing, it does come to mind that on my wife`s A8, NOTHING lasts long on the rear bumpercover. Nothing. And oddly enough, my basically identical S8 isn`t like that, no such issues at all. But then her bumpercover was repainted at least twice and mine never was, so I`ve always assumed it was some paint-related issue.
 
Accumulator said:
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On the variable durability thing,
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As stated previously, my red Volvo just disentigrates LSPs on the hood and roof. The doors, not so much. I have a black 370Z that is holding up fine this summer with the whatever insane mix of LSPs might be on there. But the Z, even though it`s black, has thinner steel and a lot of aluminum.
 
I use 1000P quite a bit on vehicles I detail, and occasionally my own. My own car is the guinea pig, so it tends to get new things more often than anything else.

But if I`m struggling what to apply on someone else`s car, I almost always go back to 1000P. I`m from the school of `polish (not wax) your shine`. 1000P might dull certain colors a bit, but I never lose sleep about its effectiveness where it matters (post-rain, etc.). I don`t detail for clients usually willing to shell-out for coatings, so traditional and dated approaches are the norm...no matter how many caveats I present upfront. Therefore, 1000P is an easy choice. Clients don`t expect fireworks for weeks, but beading will always impress them well after my work is done.

With regards to 1000P application difficulty, I`ve found that the applicator pad you use and the manner that you load the pad really matter. People might not wanna hear it, but I believe some things take practice and familiarity. If you disagree, buy a can of Fusso original formula; your first application attempt will humble you.

My technique: Lay a foam wax pad (e.g. Viking brand) into the tin, pinch the top of it down into the tin, twist left/right once, and remove. I then actually dab it on a panel they way you`d think of dabbing a D/A loaded with polish before turning it on. This way if you happen to overload the pad, you can adapt your coverage and then spread what you have.

It should go-on like...snot. Like cooking grease. It`s weird because when you get it wrong, it will fight you. When you get it right, it should smear better than gear oil.
This has been the case for me whether it`s 90* or 60*, albeit always in shade. If you get little `crumby bits` on the pad, dab them on your panel and work over them like it`s wax that`ll break-down. It should.

When I get near panel edges, I try to barely touch the pad against them via a couple of fingers to ensure I don`t cross-into trim, etc. If you`re game for taping-up all you can prior, more power to ya. For larger panels, I like to use a crisscross patterns a-la polishing...but it matters not.

As for cure time, I think it depends on your curing environment and your available time. I`ve found that I can apply 1000P to an entire vehicle (when applied thinly and consistently), and then go to the front of the vehicle and start removing it. So, 15 minutes. If you wish to wait longer, I`d let temperature be your guide and work in 15min increments. Hope that helps.

What I`m curious about to this day, is what others have found to be a nice topper over 1000P. It might be pointless since 1000P seems to mute the `pop` a bit, but I usually play with Griot`s ceramic spray over it a few days later. Either way, it`s all great protection.
 
the car needs a clay and polishThis was not a test, but 6 weeks ago I put on a coat of 476 on my car . The car does need clay and polish, but I didnt have the time. I though that the 476 would hold over till spring. My car gets washed at a automatic car wash twice a week because it sits outside 24/7. After it rains it beads like crazy, and the reflection is outstanding. 476 is hard to beat. The car wash costs $3.00 When I was a kid and worked at a hand car wash in the late 50s it was $2.00. Not much of a increase in 62 years.
 
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