Collinite 845

All of the Advance Auto Parts stores around me carry 845. It's in the marine section - a very small section usually in a corner of the store. Runs about $11 and will last six forevers.



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E-Jag
 
I work for Harley Davidson here in Florida and we sell BOTH the insulator wax AND the paste wax aswell. They are VERY durrable!. We even sell the prewax paint cleaner AND leather conditioner. Collinite is VERY good stuff but you wanna make sure you NEVER EVER wait too long before removing it!. That stuff takes a LONG time to take off after being on WAY PAST IT'S TIME!. I'd rather take durrability over "wow factor" ANYDAY!.



I've got BOTTLES of collinite paste AND liquid wax lying around the house!. i've got too many if you ask me LOL.
 
^^^yeah, it was one of my VERY FIRST wax jobs in my new found hobby LOL. I had to learn the HARD way LMAO. WITH the wrong kinda wax too! LOL!. It took me like 3.5 hours to do a 2002 Honda Civic Ex Coupe (white). I got :sign by Collinite Insulator wax:bow
 
mikebai1990 said:
If Collinite is applied thinly enough, there will be no problem even if you wait hours before removing the wax.
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That's been my experience as well. I've left both 845 and 486S on overnight before buffing them off and they still came off easily.



Johnold- Funny that you had problems with it, I suspect you put it on too thick. Rember that most all the dried wax that you see on the paint is "excess" that just gets buffed off. It doesn't take much wax to ensure adequate coverage, less than an ounce for a minivan, maybe an ounce for a Suburban. Most people use a zillion times more than they need to.
 
Collinite 845 will spread forever, it is suprising how little you actually need to do a car. I use it with a finishing pad on the PC and can do my whole car with less than 25 pea-sized drops. If you put it on so thin that you can barely see it, it will come off effortlessly.



The same holds true with 476S. If you put it on thin enough, it will come off very easy. (The first time I used 476S, I put it on too thick, and it was a bear to remove)
 
I thought that MORE and THICKER wax was better as far as shine and protection goes...? ofcourse I'm realizing that, thats wrong now LOL.
 
here is EX with 845 topped with Nattys



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ignore the front fender here i failed at wetsanding, it had a ****** repaint. no wax on it.



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bjackson8 said:
I have been using 845 on top of Poli-seal this spring on all of the details that I have done for the family. This has been a great combination on just about every color.



Great shine and great durability.
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100% agree just used that the other day and was very impressed
 
Johnold said:
I thought that MORE and THICKER wax was better as far as shine and protection goes...? ofcourse I'm realizing that, thats wrong now LOL.
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Oh so, so wrong... :grinno:
 
Johnold said:
I thought that MORE and THICKER wax was better as far as shine and protection goes...? ofcourse I'm realizing that, thats wrong now LOL.
Click to expand...





Heh heh, yeah...that's a common misconception. Think of the wax as bonding to the paint at the molecular level. The dried product that you see on the paint is the excess that gets buffed off.



I will caution against overdoing the thin application bit though...some people have ended up "dry buffing" when their pads ran out of LSP and that compromised the glaze they were waxing over. You want just enough LSP on the applicator to keep it lubricated and "gliding" across the paint...when it gets dry it'll start to "grab" and that's when you can have problems.
 
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