Coating Users - Do you utilize more aggressive presoaks?

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DetailZeus

New member
I'm talking anything like an aggressive snowfoam, APC, citrus cleaner, etc. that you pre-treat the paint with then rinse off.

With all the talk about coatings just shrugging off the cleaners in touch-free tunnel washes, I wanted to ask if any of you regularly use presoaks that might leave us sealant and wax users shaking in our boots. :o

I use a sealant, and I personally find presoaking with a standard "lsp-safe" shampoo no better then just rinsing with water.
 
I'm not sure what you're asking... Aggressive pre soak when? With every wash? I don't and can't imagine why anyone would. The whole point of a coating is nothing sticks so dirt is released very easily with standard washing. Only reason for what you're suggesting is if one wanted to strip a wax.

Does that hat answer your question?
 
I just hose it off and it could almost pass for clean for a few times after it had been washed
 
Generally no because almost everything doesn't actually get "stuck" to a coating, however I have sprayed the lower half of my car before with APC to help with tar and months of salt build up.
 
jrock645 said:
I'm not sure what you're asking... Aggressive pre soak when? With every wash? I don't and can't imagine why anyone would. The whole point of a coating is nothing sticks so dirt is released very easily with standard washing. Only reason for what you're suggesting is if one wanted to strip a wax.

Does that hat answer your question?
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I haven't actually seen a coating perform in person. But I was asking since the coating could handle chemicals that begin to break down dirt without physical agitation, you could theoretically remove more dirt before you touch your paint. But it sounds like they shed so well the point is moot.
 
SYMAWD said:
Generally no because almost everything doesn't actually get "stuck" to a coating, however I have sprayed the lower half of my car before with APC to help with tar and months of salt build up.
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Yep, seems like what most people would do after that kind of buildup. Then I guess the only difference is we would be reapplying our LSP's but for you it's business as usual.
 
Noting that I only use coatings on wheels...

I find presoaks to be beneficial, just not as magically-wonderful as some people seem to expect. The longer a cleaner dwells on a surface, the better it usually works.

But I quit letting APCs/etc. dwell on my coatings after people here reported how the coating did degrade to some extent when treated with aggressive cleaners. So I just use a pretty potent shampoo mix and that works fine (even on utterly filthy wheels on cars with supposedly awful brakedust issues, even on winter-nasty undercarriages).

As for stuff "not getting stuck to a coating", that has *NOT* been my experience with OptiCoat. Stuff does stick to those wheels, but it's not all that hard to clean said stuff off; easier than with conventional LSPs and the coating appears to be fine after the cleaning. This coating does shed contamination well, but then so does fresh FK1000P. Best thing about the coating IME is that it doesn't need redone as often (but it's much more of a hassle when it does).
 
Accumulator said:
Noting that I only use coatings on wheels...

I find presoaks to be beneficial, just not as magically-wonderful as some people seem to expect. The longer a cleaner dwells on a surface, the better it usually works.

But I quit letting APCs/etc. dwell on my coatings after people here reported how the coating did degrade to some extent when treated with aggressive cleaners. So I just use a pretty potent shampoo mix and that works fine (even on utterly filthy wheels on cars with supposedly awful brakedust issues, even on winter-nasty undercarriages).

As for stuff "not getting stuck to a coating", that has *NOT* been my experience with OptiCoat. Stuff does stick to those wheels, but it's not all that hard to clean said stuff off; easier than with conventional LSPs and the coating appears to be fine after the cleaning. This coating does shed contamination well, but then so does fresh FK1000P. Best thing about the coating IME is that it doesn't need redone as often (but it's much more of a hassle when it does).
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I am Opticoated and that is not my experience either. Dirt and grime still sticks to a coating just as it does to paint.

I typically use a strong prewash before my two bucket to knock off the grime. My thought is to remove all the dirt I can before I touch the paint. Seems to be working for me and I haven't seen any degrading for the past 3 years.
 
carpro reset was made for coated paints. and supposed to be pretty aggressive cleaner while not hurting the coating. This is directly from the Car-pro website

Reset breaks down road grime and traffic films with the power of an alkaline cleaner, whilst being as gentle on the surface as a pH-neutral shampoo
 
psynx said:
carpro reset was made for coated paints. and supposed to be pretty aggressive cleaner while not hurting the coating. This is directly from the Car-pro website

Reset breaks down road grime and traffic films with the power of an alkaline cleaner, whilst being as gentle on the surface as a pH-neutral shampoo
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+1 with Psynx -

Car Pro Reset is all I have ever used on my coated vehicles and Client's vehicles and it really puts the coating back to about as good as it can get and work again...
Dan F
 
Thanks for all the responses guys. I'm still using a sealant right now but this was just an idea floating around in my head.

XxBoostinxX said:
[...] My thought is to remove all the dirt I can before I touch the paint. [...]
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This is actually my "detailing resolution" for the year. I pushed the limits of a rinseless over the winter and got some marring. So no more washing without at least a hose down first before touching the paint. I'm actually planning on picking up a pressure washer this spring.
 
DetailZeus said:
I'm actually planning on picking up a pressure washer this spring.
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A cheap pressure washer is, IMO, one of the single best investments you can make towards the goal of marring-free washes. Don't feel that you have to buy a potent one if that's not in the budget. I'd read how you gotta buy something pretty decent (like what I used to buy) but have been pleasantly surprised that my bottom-feeder model works just fine for this and doesn't need to be turned down for delicate/fragile areas.
 
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