ClearKote Compound Moose and Blue Moose Cutting Cream

I

imported_Gaz7

New member
Hi all,



I shall be trying these out for the first time over the next couple of weeks. Any tips?



Which is the most aggressive? I would have thought the Compound Moose, as it has micro-abrasives, but after doing a search, some people seem to think the BMCC is? How do each of the products rate in strength compared to my SSR line up?



Any tips on usage and pads? Does one product follow the other (strenth wise) or is it a case of using one or the other, depending on the vehicles paint quality?



Thanks,



Gareth :)
 
I have the Compound Moose only but I LOVE IT!



At least as powerful as OHC if not more, and it leaves an absolutely brilliant finish. Working time is OK, and easy to remove.



One of my absolute fave compounds.
 
Thanks :) So it looks as if the Compound could be about as strong as SSR3? Does anyone know about the blue moose? Stronger or weaker?



Bence - When you use Compound, does it need finishing with another product, or does it leave a finish good enough for glazes/sealants etc ?



Gareth :)
 
Gareth, the finish is usually LSP-ready. On some darks you can do an optional finessing step but this is really paint dependent. You can change to a softer pad or a finishing polish.
 
it sounds like a good product but the product description that says "contains no abrasives" is either inncorrect or misleading
 
It is similar to the HTEC which contains also micro-abrasives only. You won't feel any grittyness between your fingers. But they cut more than well enough.
 
Bence, i think i'll test it out on a dark metallic red, so i'll see how it goes :)



Eliot, thanks for the link, i didn't notice that thread whilst searching. Blue Moose seems pretty aggressive then - so which is more agressive, the blue moose or compound? Both are coming across as quite strong in this thread.



Gareth :)
 
Gaz7 ,





Blue moose is a chemical compund it does not contain traditional abbrasives. It will remove alot defects and oxidation but it does it chemicaly and via the heat from the pad. It is in my opinion a very agressive compound but it still finshes out very nice , only really leaving a haze on dark cars. When I've used blue moose I've always followed with a lighter polish such as vanilla moose. As tips on use work it until it starts to dry and use an aggresive pad with it.

Hope this helps







Doug Lucas

The Detail Barn
 
Detailbarn - that's great, would you say it's as harsh/harsher than SSR3? Also, is it stronger than Compound Moose, or is it the other way around?



Gareth :)
 
Gaz7 said:
Detailbarn - that's great, would you say it's as harsh/harsher than SSR3? Also, is it stronger than Compound Moose, or is it the other way around?



Gareth :)
Click to expand...





thats a hard one , harsher than SSR3 not sure more effective yes, in my opinon. It is more harsh than Compound Moose , also Red Moose works very well after Blue Moose to bring out the shine.
 
Would you ever use Compound Moose after Blue Moose, or is it a strictly 'one or the other' affair depending on what condition the paint is in?



I think i might split a test panel into 3, and try SSR3, Blue Moose and Compound Moose on different areas and see how they come out.



From what you've said, Blue Moose is looking to be around about as harsh as SSR3, so i guess Compound Moose is more like SSR2.5?



Gareth :)
 
Gaz7 said:
Would you ever use Compound Moose after Blue Moose, or is it a strictly 'one or the other' affair depending on what condition the paint is in?



I think i might split a test panel into 3, and try SSR3, Blue Moose and Compound Moose on different areas and see how they come out.



From what you've said, Blue Moose is looking to be around about as harsh as SSR3, so i guess Compound Moose is more like SSR2.5?



Gareth :)
Click to expand...





Gareth , sounds like you are on the right path , as far as using one or the other that about right excpet if you want to do all the steps just to get the most shine out of the surface. As far as comparing them to SSR line or any other compound you really can't because it is very different in the way it works. The best way to describe blue moose it to call it AIO pumped up 100 times with out the protection. With blue moose the paint it heated and chemically abraded , unlike most polishes that use some sort of solid abrasive material to abrade the paint. Remember to work Blue Moose until it starts to dry.
 
Thanks for the advice about the Blue Moose - i'll try it how you said. My comparisons are only meant loosely, i realise the products work differently, i just meant a comparison really for what the products achieve :)



The panel i have in mind is quite severly swirled, with some other clearcoat defects, some of which will not be fixable by anything other than a respray. I'm interested to see how the products fair. Can a PC produce enough heat for blue moose to work, or is a rotary better?



Gareth :)
 
Gaz7 said:
Thanks for the advice about the Blue Moose - i'll try it how you said. My comparisons are only meant loosely, i realise the products work differently, i just meant a comparison really for what the products achieve :)



The panel i have in mind is quite severly swirled, with some other clearcoat defects, some of which will not be fixable by anything other than a respray. I'm interested to see how the products fair. Can a PC produce enough heat for blue moose to work, or is a rotary better?



Gareth :)
Click to expand...



no problem , it's just a weird product to describe. when i've used blue moose i've use both the PC and rotary and honetly I liked the way it worked better with the PC and a yellow pad set on speed 6. good luck with your experiment! :2thumbs:
 
Both are pretty aggressive compounds but Blue Moose really excels at removing oxidation. I agree with Bence about Compound Moose, really finishes off well. One thing to remember, just like Optimum HC, less is more. Compound Moose will also eat through paint overspray using a cutting pad.
 
Scottwax - that's also good to know. I think when i searched about the products i remember you mentioning that in another thread... about using roughly half what you'd normally use. Makes the products even better value for money ;)



Blue Moose sound ideal for sorting out non-clearcoated, heavily oxidised paint in that case...



Gareth :)
 
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