Clear Coat Question

I had a valve cover powercoated and it turned out great. I had it done a few years ago and paid about $40 for it (maybe less). As the shop got more popular, I noticed that their prices increased.
 
I had my grille powder coated, (removed from the car) and have been very happy with it. You might want to ask about flex agents depending on what you intend to paint
 
I have powdercoated numerous engine and suspension cars on my show car (1990 300zx).

Pics can be seen here:



Pricing does depend on the number parts being done. The more it seems the cheaper it is. The durablility of powdercoating is unmatched. I would highly recommend it.


My Show Car
 
<blockquote class='ipsBlockquote' >

<em class='bbc'>Originally posted by olivher [/i]
<strong class='bbc'>I had a valve cover powercoated and it turned out great. I had it done a few years ago and paid about $40 for it (maybe less). As the shop got more popular, I noticed that their prices increased. [/b]</blockquote>
Where did you go to have that done? I'd like to do mine but I don't know what kind of shop to go to. Would the same shop do wheels?
 
Most powdercoaters will do most any type of metal. I just looked in my phone book and started calling local places for estimates. I also talked to some Harley Davidson guys that had some stuff done and ended up hooking up with a good chromer/powdercoater.



I am not sure where you are located but I can get them ur number if you are interested.
 
I've had lots of stuff powder coated including entire racing chassis. It's true that the more you coat the more you save. Powder coaters tend to give good prices for large jobs. But for small orders quality is most important.



If you know any racing people, especially those that run on dirt, ask them. I think every sprint car and midget driver knows all he powder coating guys in their town.



Look in your local yellow pages under "coatings".
 
Hey, CJ - a friend of mine is restoring a Chevelle and just got the frame, rear end and suspension components back from the powder coater - they look GREAT! I don't know where he got them done but I know it would be close to San Mateo, and since you're in northern CA, I thought you might be interested. Contact me via email if you want more info and i will forward it to him.
 
My father-in-law and I want to powder coat the frame of our Cobra replica. If anyone knows of a good shop near Lodi, California (Stockton? even Sacramento is close) then let me know.
 
<blockquote class='ipsBlockquote' >

<em class='bbc'>Originally posted by Jngrbrdman [/i]
<strong class='bbc'>

Where did you go to have that done? I'd like to do mine but I don't know what kind of shop to go to. Would the same shop do wheels? [/b]</blockquote>
When I had my 96 Integra GSR, I had the valve cover powdercoated at a powercoating shop in San Mateo, CA. Like others have said, they will powercoat at type of metal. It's cheaper if they have the power color in stock. If you want a custom color, they would have to charge you for a bulk size of powder. Also, as it has been mentioned, bring in a lot of parts to be painted the same color so it will be cheaper.
 
Jst so I have an idea in my own head, How many passes, with 15 lb of pressue could you make on a factory CC car with say M105 (Assuming pad was re-primed properly as polish cleared) before you removed all the clear coat.

I need to get my head around how delicate the CC is or is not. I have a suspiction that the reason i can't get the swirls out of my car is becasue I am too mild with too few passes.
 
Not a pro, but it will all depend on the mnfr and type of clear used. I'm still working on my 10yo Ford paint to remove the swirls and such (the 3yo Ford is much better now :wink:)
 
Are you using a DA or Rotary? If using a DA, put enough pressure on the machine to slow down the movement, but not enough to stop it.

I think it might have been Todd (I may be wrong), who suggested taking a Sharpee and marking a straight line on your BP, so you can see if the line stops rotating.

I hope this helps.
 
bmw5541 said:
Are you using a DA or Rotary? If using a DA, put enough pressure on the machine to slow down the movement, but not enough to stop it.

I think it might have been Todd (I may be wrong), who suggested taking a Sharpee and marking a straight line on your BP, so you can see if the line stops rotating.

I hope this helps.
Click to expand...

The mark works great but if you're using a Flex 3401 DA then there is no need for a mark ;)
 
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