Cleaning door jambs

I

imported_kuba

New member
I just wanted to know, if you clean your door jambs, should you be reapplying the grease found around the nuts/bolts and hinges?



By cleaning out the jambs, you're also removing the grease that came with the car originally, is it wise to do so?

Just curious because I took some simple car wash soap, warm water and a cloth, clean it out fairly well, but I don't want to overdo it either.



I was considering a pressure wash maybe, but was hesitant because of shooting water into those areas and not having it completely dry out and in essence maybe rusting over time.



Thanks.
 
Those hinges absolutely need to remain lubed. Don't shoot straight into the joint, or relube afterwards.
 
Always wondered what to use to relube. At the Toyota dealer they used something like a thick foam that looked like whip cream and didn't lose its puffiness over the months, after awhile it did start to deflate and take on the color of deep caramel like color.



When shopping for a door jam lube that was kind of like that this was the only thing I could find



1Z Einszett Ultra Gel Spray Grease



Any other suggestions?
 
Without unhinging the doors it would be a bit difficult to properly re-lube the hinges. I would consult a reputable auto body repair store with asking with what they use. Otherwise the thinner spray lubes would be your best bet. Basic greasing does involve wiping up excess grease that went past the joints anyway.
 
Rei86 said:
Always wondered what to use to relube. At the Toyota dealer they used something like a thick foam that looked like whip cream and didn't lose its puffiness over the months, after awhile it did start to deflate and take on the color of deep caramel like color.
Click to expand...



That would be white lithium grease, I'm sure.



What I use is some stuff from B'Laster called "The Dry Lube" because once the grease has flowed into the hinges, I can cleanly wipe the excess away and it won't attract dirt or look like a total mess.
 
Door Jambs (Door shuts)



1. Use P21S® High Performance Total Auto Wash or Optimum Optiâ„¢ Clean), dilute the cleaner as necessary, using a damp micro fibre towel to go over the door jamb to remove excess grease etc.

2. Ensure all water drainage holes are clear

3. Take a Swissvax Detail Brush and ensure that you have got into the corners, just lightly brush over it a couple of times.

4. For difficult to reach areas use the Mini E-Z Detail brush with a flexible shaft

5. Rinse it off using a wet microfiber towel, and dry thoroughly

6. Use a Carnauba wax or a spray (WOWA) polymer sealant Zanio Z-8 for protection

7. Repeat this process on the other side and carry on detailing the rest of your car

8. Check the hinge / latch lubrication, renew with a clear synthetic grease (WURTH Spray Grease Synthetic Lubricant) or white Lithium grease, as necessary

9. Apply WD-40 (water displacement) to lock as this will prevent moisture, rust and or freezing

10. Apply Graphite Lubricant to the door locks, hinges and latches

11. Remove dust / dirt from the rubber sleeves and apply Iz einszett Vinyl-Rubber Care'

12. While you are doing this part of the job, also clean the area around the boot lid, hood and inside the fuel filler flap and access area.

13. Clean the water channels in the trunk as well as under the hood.

Don’t forget the door sills / kick plates; use P21S® High Performance Total Auto Wash or Optimum Power Cleanâ„¢) once clean and dry, they should be protected by applying a surface dressing to vinyl surfaces and either wax or sealant protection to painted surfaces.

 
I do absolutely *MINIMAL* lubrication of my hinges. As in, most people would say I oughta do a lot more, but I've never had any problems.



When I do it, I often use "hypodermic" style oilers or do it *VERY CAREFULLY* with the long tubes like on that 1Z product (I usually use stuff from Wurth) so that I don't get any excess lube in places where I don't want/need it. I'll hold rags/etc. around the part I'm lubing and wipe with ONR/etc. afterwards.



As noted, it can be challenging to get lube where you want it in cases of tight fitting stuff. I'll often do the lubing in serveral steps, with the door/hood/etc. in different positions, and I'll swing it through a full range of motion before the lube dries/flashes off.



Probably sounds like I make this a huge PIA (and maybe that's why I don't do much of it, huh?) but to me it's no biggie and I don't put a whole lot into figuring out how to do it or what to use. I just get some lube on the surfaces that need it and try to redo it before it gives evidence of actually needing redone. And I don't work very hard at figuring out which lube might be the absolute best either. The very light/thin oil I use on the S8 (zero mess) just needs redone more often than the heavier stuff I use on the Tahoe. If something's too thin (or too thick to get in where it needs to go) you'll know soon enough, just try something else. Not like there'll be any big problem unless you let it go for months on end.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top