clayed, polished, & sealed...paint STILL looks like crap

You have quite a project there man! :up



I would suggest to sped $10 buck and grab a pre-wax cleaner (Mothers on Meguiars from autozone) and a pack of terry aplicators. Use them wit the prewax cleaner to clean before polishing. The applicators are toss up, and they will truly be toss-up, because that paint is filthy.



SFX-1 has quite some bite, use it with the orange pad. I don't how it compares to OHC / OC, so maybe you can report it back ;)





Alex
 
Thanks for the tip AlexRuiz. I tried some SFX-1 with the orange pad like you said and MAN...its sooo much faster. Then I tried sfx-1 with some OHC and the meg's burgundy pad and the results were much better.....Problem: I neeeeeed more sfx-1. So, Optimum sorta overrated the cut of OHC...it cuts less than sfx-1 (a polish). Oh I tried some AIO to clean the paint and it looked like nothing happened. So you think that the stuff on the car is oxidation?
 
I got some Meg's paint cleaner and its not doing much as far as i can see...but i'll try it before polishing and see its effectiveness.
 
Ugh...i give up on polishing out the defect....it seems impossible. Schools starting next week and I gotta pack up for the dorms. I just slapped some cheap turtle wax carnauba on there just until I save enough to get some Collinite. BTW, the wax hides the defects very well. I'll post some pics of it tomorrow. Thanks for your help guys. This has truly been a valuable learning experience in using the PC. Some questions however:



Which collinite was the one that was the most durable? The insulator wax?

How do you keep the pads from flying off while at speed 5 or 6? I try pressing them against the paint but it keeps them from making a "proper" orbit, and the velcro wears out from that pressure.
 
845 and 476 are the ones to look at. Its a general consensus that 476 lasts a month longer and that the two look the same. Since you have the PC, you might as well get the 476. I have the 845 and its a breeze to put on by hand.
 
Thanks for the advice thejaredhuang. I'll take a look into various collinites you suggested.



Here is a picture of the upper half of the door w/o the turtle wax and the bottom with the turtle wax. HUGE difference.



P1010196.jpg




I'm thinking of getting a glaze in the future, slap it on for some gloss and hiding, and then add some collinite for long term protection in the winter while I'm at school.



Bence, thats what I was hoping for. However, everytime I do the sides of the car, the PC hits a molding for example and throws the pad out of alignment. I would then have to peel it off and recenter it. Eventually the velcro wears out and the pad resists rotating properly with the PC and causes the backing plate to rub against the velcro. Thats ONE problem. The other is that I'm pushing too hard and causing the velcro to left outwards out of the pad. However, the reason is to prevent the pad from flying off/out of alignment at speed 5 or 6. How much pressure is usually recomended?



Man...I'm such a noob at this...thanks again guys for the advice.
 
just the standard turtle wax carnauba wax (green bottle). Its doing a great job hiding the defects (yes, water could do the same too but that only lasts half as long as the turtle wax... :chuckle: ) I'm assuming its a cleaner wax. I picked it up at Target back when I was 14 year old.



So right now, I'm speculating that the milky discoloration is a series of very fine scratches that were caused by the car being washed by a squeegee. It won't get any cleaner than this, Meg's burgundy pad with OHC at speed 6 is barely helping (it is but its a long way to go...), and any liquid that alters/defracts the way light shines or whatever the term is (water, gasoline, oil based coating like wax) would easily hide the defect.
 
ev01ut10ndt said:
So right now, I'm speculating that the milky discoloration is a series of very fine scratches ...
Click to expand...



Sounds like you need to inspect the finish with good lighting and some magnification.
 
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