Clay users, I need some input...

A

Acura_RL

New member
To start, if you are reading this, I would like two pieces of information from you: (1) How long it takes you to clay your car; and (2) whether your car is light colored or dark colored.



Let me first start off saying that claying is not for the faint of heart. Contrary to the apparent simplicity of it's process, I don't think this is any ordinary 1 hour procedure.



Here's why: today while inspecting the trunk on my car, I noticed visible black specs in random places. These were only visible upon very close inspection. This is after I clayed my car two nights before and did a full detail yesterday.



I thought I did a thorough job claying but apparently there were still some stubborn contaminents that needed to be removed. Also, being that my car is light-colored, they would stand out more.



My theory is that rather than dislodging the contaminent, the claybar sometimes simply breakes off the contaminent from the top. It's like getting a splinter: if your not careful removing the foreign object, you'll risk breaking it at the surface.



Well, I reached for the clay and lube again and began claying the trunk again. I actually had to put a little elbow grease and patience into the process, sometimes repeatedly claying over a certain specs 20 or 30 times in order to see the spec dwindle to a smaller spot and eventually disappear. Also, rather than working in a 1'x1' area, it was more like working in a 1"x1" area, micro-inspecting every bit of the paint and looking for the faintest spec. (Many of you might think a cleanser might have taken care of this issue, but I used it and apparently it didn't.)



Contrary to the general standard operating procedure of claying, I had to use medium to heavy pressure on the claybar to remove some specs. And as long as the clay glided, I didn't use extra lube.



I guess after all this typing, what I'm really trying to say is that, as a detailing fanatic, claying should be done very meticulously. I honestly think this is perhaps a full 1-2 day process. Anyone new here who's thinking of claying their never-been-clayed-before vehicle must commit a lot of time in order to achieve an outstanding detail.



Right now I'm waiting for #26 to dry for 45 mintues. After claying I applied #7 again, then followed up with #26.



Many of you think I'm being fastidious, but by using this piece of advice, you will notice a difference. One of the things that adds depth to a paint surface is unformity of the appearance: it's almost like an illusion but once your eyes cannot discern any disruption in the continuity of the appearance, then the paint takes on a life of its own. It's sort of the like the curving lines of a porsche: you never can find out where they end. That's why it's one of the sexiest vehicles out there.



Ok, I've got a wee bit too much time on my hands. Thanks for reading btw. :bounce
 
My car is white and it takes me about 30-45 minutes to clay the whole car. I usually only need to clay twice a year but sometimes I get hit by a sap monster or something and need to clay again. I am very meticulous when I clay a car. Sometimes there are spots that you almost have to use the clay like an eraser and really rub to get it off. I've had IFO that needed some elbow grease to remove. Generally I don't have those kinds of problems. If a car is in really bad shape and I know that clay may not do the trick then I will ABC it first and then clay. That saves a ton of clay time.
 
Hmm, my car is dark and I live in a relatively new neighborhood (no or very small trees, therefore no sap). So, I haven't seen the problem you are describing. However, I wonder if I don't see it because I try to do a cleaning step right after the clay? I mean, if you really really have to rub hard with the clay, then maybe the problem is one that could be solved quicker and easier with something else?



Just shotgunning here, but I've got my flame suit on just in case. ;)
 
One thing I want to add is that some of the specs left behind tiny brown spots. This leads me to believe that it was rail dust embedded in the paint. I kept claying until the rust spots disappear.



I do agree, however, that once a car onwer meets the upkeep schedule for the exterior care, then claying becomes less of an issue since most of the embedded contaminents have been taken out in the first few runs. However, the thoroughness of the clay job in the beginning will determine the amount of work required in future claying.
 
I know what you are talking about. Sometimes when you clay a car for the first or even like third time, you find specs you didn't see before and that the gentle claying action didn't grab. You just gotta use some force to get them out and try to be rubbing with as clean a part of the clay as possible. :nixweiss
 
I've also noticed that it takes much longer to clay a car the first time it's ever been clayed. Whenever you do it the next time - say 3 or months later - it goes much faster. Usually I just clay while washing on cars that I've clayed before. I did a silver Nissan today and noticed the blacks specs, some of them were even rusted. Had to be rail dust I assume, the truck was less than 6 months old and had never been clayed. I also noticed that the ClayMagic bars appear to a lot more aggressive than the Mothers bars.
 
I clayed my car yesterday, for the third time. I can't imagine doing it in 30 minutes, because of the "attention to detail" matters discussed above. Yes, you can "go over" the car quickly, but to actually examine the paint, notice everything that is in or on it, then remove it, takes me some time.
 
Well I hate to say this, but according to my activity log it took me about 5 hours to clay a friend's black car not long ago. :o This was taking it easy, but at the same time I knew I wasn't being as meticulous as I would've been had I been doing my own silver car. I only clayed until contamination ceased to be felt, and didn't check visually much. The last time I completely clayed my car I recall it took several long hours because of contaminants that could be seen but not felt. I got the paint totally 100% spotless from top to bottom... what a chore.



I'm of the opinion that the brown dots are usually the remnants of tar spots that have been partially removed and not rail dust, but not always of course.



I've also noticed that after you clay your car for the first time it's noticably faster and easier the second time around (thank goodness).
 
Yeah, what EVERYONE has said. That's not being contradictory, either. Sometimes I can clay a vehicle in no time at all, other times, yes, it DOES take a looong time.



These days, like Jngrbrdman, on a nasty car I'll use ABC instead of JUST relying on the clay to do it all. The acidic "B" step, for instance, can dissolve ferrous deposits completely (I've had rust spots return when all I did was clay). I also clay during the "B" step- best of both worlds.



On the other hand, I spot-clay my "good" vehicles as needed with every wash. Only takes a minute and they aren't exposed to enough bad stuff to need a thorough claying more than once a year, if that. Light-colored vehicles, BTW.
 
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