Clay alternative and lube?

AAEzra

New member
First post and hope this is in the right category as I am a beginner. I got some meguires clay bar kit I bought like 10 years ago i think and it's just smearing all over the place on what seems to be very rough paint. So I'm looking into a nano skin product. I'm looking at the sponges be of cost but considering the mitt be it can follow body contures. What's a good lube for this stuff? Better question what are you guys using? Is the nano skin glide the stuff to get or use the washles/rinse less stuff? Thanks
 
I went from Clay to Nano Skin sponges and haven't looked back. I still keep clay in my arsenal just in case, but have not had the need to use it ever since i got the sponges. I use their Nano Skin Glide as lube if i'm going for a decon followed by LSP without polishing(testing a small spot first to ensure no marring) . If i'm polishing after, i use the same soapy water from my wash bucket and it has worked for me. This is just based on my own personal experience, others will advise eventually and you can decide from there.

Welcome to the forum, great place to learn lots of things.
 
I have a nanoskin fine grade sponge and although it works well, I still pick up more with a clay. So I still use clay on my personal cars.

I use Meguiar's D155 Last Touch with a clay bar and the sponge.
 
If you want the best claying result, there's no substitute for the real deal. Faster isn't always better, especially if you're not on the customer's clock.
 
I've switched to the Nanoskin Sponge using Ultima Waterless Wash+ as a lube (at the waterless dilution) and have had great results. Use it after IronX and have had no marring. The UWW+ is also my go to rinseless wash now so I've eliminated having to buy 3 products with just 1.
 
I have the nanoskin wash mitt . First time i used it with a clay lube spaying each panel . I stored it in a bag after it dried .
Last week I used it with a bucket of Chemical Guys Hose Free Wash. I did a final wash with it before compounding.
Not thinking i laid it down on top of the baggie and it stuck to it like glue.
The white ziplock writing pulled right off the bag. I cleaned it with some dish soap to get the bag writing off.
So i put it in my wash bucket for now.
It is remaining really sticky. Is this normal or could i have ruined it.
How do i store it now?
 
My sponges got pretty sticky after the first few uses to, i could not store them in their plastic bags anymore so now i keep them inside a cabinet and rinse them thoroughly before each use.
 
Migue, did you nanoskin that Mercedes? my brother is giving me an 02 black Mercedes and is the reason why I'm really looking as a nanoskin product, that and my clay smears sometimes and smudges a bit while trying to apply more pressure and im thinking nanoskin would help. Are you able to work body lines and edges with the sponge or is it so stiff it won't bend to contures?

glide or uww+ I guess are the best choices. But if that glide didn't mar for migue on that black Mercedes I'm thinking it might be a better choice, idk.

i don't have much time and from my understanding you want to wash, clay, compound, Polish, then seal all in one day?

thanjs it's just all still confusing and. It takes me too much time to decide what I should get then I always second guess myself.
 
AAEzra -

I have only tried that yellow Meguiars clay a couple of times ( it was a gift), and it was awful compared to something like the blue ClayMagic bar that is available at most auto parts places, even Grand Auto, etc... The meguiars clay did also smear and was just a mess to use and I imagine it might be even more messy on warm paintwork or in hot weather..

I had great success with the redbar from Zaino, and the all around Best Claybar ever is the one at Autopia Forum's Store - the BlackFire PolyClay Bar... This one rocks and is easy to use..
They also sell a Claybar cleaner that really works great too...

Finally, I got into the SM Arnold Speedy Prep Towel in the Fine Grade and have stayed with that because it is definitely faster, much bigger footprint, it is a folded 4 times polymerized rubber on 1 side towel, it rinses with anything liquid and is not harmed if dropped on the ground..

The best Clay Lube I have ever found for my needs is still this one - also sold here at Autopia Forum's Store - Dodo Juice Born Slippy clay lubricant
This stuff smells really good and is very, very, slippery, and does not introduce anything that needs extra work to remove after you are done..

Just mix some up in a spray bottle, spray it and go.. Keep it wet and listen as you hear the media shearing off the embedded gunk, and then it all goes quiet and the media is moving really smoothly over the panel...

There are a zillion products and opinions out there, good luck with your research !
Dan F
 
Migue, did you nanoskin that Mercedes? my brother is giving me an 02 black Mercedes and is the reason why I'm really looking as a nanoskin product, that and my clay smears sometimes and smudges a bit while trying to apply more pressure and im thinking nanoskin would help. Are you able to work body lines and edges with the sponge or is it so stiff it won't bend to contures?

glide or uww+ I guess are the best choices. But if that glide didn't mar for migue on that black Mercedes I'm thinking it might be a better choice, idk.

i don't have much time and from my understanding you want to wash, clay, compound, Polish, then seal all in one day?

thanjs it's just all still confusing and. It takes me too much time to decide what I should get then I always second guess myself.

The Black one from my avatar? phew, that was my old SUV about 8 yrs ago, it was my first time using the PC to correct anything. That one i just clayed it then compound/polish/LSP but it was an all day job at about 14 hrs on exterior. I'd be a lot more careful on a black vehicle since the marring would be a lot more noticeable of course.
 
I use the Nanoskin Auto-Scrub towel (FINE GRADE). I have not found any micro-marring that I could attribute to the towel.
When I'm done using it the towel I rinse it thoroughly and use a couple of clothes pin type clamps.
I then hang it face out to dry on the inside of the cabinet door with nothing touching the rubber (or it will get sticky).

Do NOT wash or use a soap as it may ruin the polymerized rubber.
I personally use ONR with the clay dilution ratio for a clay lube.
I rarely use a real clay bar. Only as a follow up or delicate paint.
 
I have a Black Mercedes and have used traditional clay and the Speedy Prep Towel. Did a side by side and they both picked up the same for me. I would go over the clayed area with the clay towel and no additional contaminants were observed. Same with the towel side. Used the clay afterwards and nothing. Results could be determined by how badly the car is contaminated, which mine wasn't too bad.

No marring whatsoever by either one using Infinite Use Detail Juice as lube. This is my favorite Rinseless type product by far. Versatile too, can be used for waterless, Rinseless, clay lube, interior cleaner, etc. And while it's more expensive, the dilution kinda makes up for it. Only half of what you would need from the other products (ONR, UWW+, etc) is needed. But the best part of the product is the results. Great lubricity and cleaning. Accumulator will understand...:)
 
First post and hope this is in the right category as I am a beginner. I got some meguires clay bar kit I bought like 10 years ago i think and it's just smearing all over the place on what seems to be very rough paint. So I'm looking into a nano skin product. I'm looking at the sponges be of cost but considering the mitt be it can follow body contures. What's a good lube for this stuff? Better question what are you guys using? Is the nano skin glide the stuff to get or use the washles/rinse less stuff? Thanks

I have three different clay alternatives (two mitts, and one towel) and I've used everything from a quick detailer to soap and water. IMHO they all work as clay lube it just depends how concerned you are about marring. If I'm going to correct the paint I just use car soap and water from a bucket with a grit guard. If it's my own pride and joy I use a fine towel or fine clay bar with UWW+ as clay lube. I've even herd of people just using water...
 
52split- Heh heh, as I read your post I was thinking "man, that second paragraph sounds like he's channeling me!" I mix my IUDJ awfully strong..wasting $ I'm sure but I like how it's working so I keep doing it.


52split said:
Accumulator will understand...:)

Now what I *DON'T* understand is how you folks use those Clay Substiture Towels without instilling any marring. I'm *NOT* challenging/questioning, I just don't understand it. I mean, I have to knead/replace my clay every few *inches* of panel, oh-so-gentle with virtually no pressure, the whole process is really challenging if I want to completely avoid marring. I'd expect the towls to be less forgiving than the way I clay, so I just don't understand...where does the abrasive [stuff] go so it doesn't get trapped between the towel and the paint?

Eh, I probably sound like a twit on this subject :o But I'm willing to just shrug and be happy it's working for you guys. Another one of Life's Mysteries that I might never understand.
 
52split- Heh heh, as I read your post I was thinking "man, that second paragraph sounds like he's channeling me!" I mix my IUDJ awfully strong..wasting $ I'm sure but I like how it's working so I keep doing it.




Now what I *DON'T* understand is how you folks use those Clay Substiture Towels without instilling any marring. I'm *NOT* challenging/questioning, I just don't understand it. I mean, I have to knead/replace my clay every few *inches* of panel, oh-so-gentle with virtually no pressure, the whole process is really challenging if I want to completely avoid marring. I'd expect the towls to be less forgiving than the way I clay, so I just don't understand...where does the abrasive [stuff] go so it doesn't get trapped between the towel and the paint?

Eh, I probably sound like a twit on this subject :o But I'm willing to just shrug and be happy it's working for you guys. Another one of Life's Mysteries that I might never understand.


Totally understand. When I clay with my Speedy Prep Towel I soak it in a bucket filled with a strong mixture of IUDJ. I let it soak for a couple minutes then proceed to clay using my Kwazar "double spray" spray bottle filled with more IUDJ. I am constantly "rinsing" the towel with the hose and then dumping it back in the Detail Juice bucket and repeat the process for the entire vehicle. I don' clay very often as my coatings hold up very well and do an excellent job of keeping the paint "contaminant free."
 
I'd expect the towels to be less forgiving than the way I clay, so I just don't understand...where does the abrasive [stuff] go so it doesn't get trapped between the towel and the paint?

Depending on what I'm doing...
If I'm polishing paint after doing clay then not much worry.
If I'm doing a wash, clay & wax I'll rinse the towel after each panel.
I have used a white clay bar after using the Nanoskin Auto-Scrub towel (FINE).
The results were a clean white clay bar with very little to no contaminants in the clay.
 
Mi Amigo, El Accumulator',

The much larger size/footprint of the SM Arnold Speedy Prep Towel, for example, makes it much more less likely to get into trouble with it..
Im thinking since it is a form of polymerized rubber, and while it is "sticky" when dry, once its wet and lubed, it just slides everywhere really easily..

I only use the Fine Grade for my Shop and of course my "Baby"; on some dirtier paintwork of Client's cars, I may have to go over it again in spots if Im not paying complete total attention to the work..

In the past, had more issues with a few different claybars sticking to the paint for some reason and not wanting to come off easily, than I have ever had with the Speedy Prep Towel in the few years I have had it..

I believe it you are keeping the surface wet - either by spraying with a bottle of Lube or sponge, heck, even the hose, this type of media self rinses anyway..
The reason I say this is because I always rinse it after a panel, and have yet to ever find anything embedded/stuck to to the rubber side - ever...

Perhaps put this on your List to Santa ? :)
Dan F
 
If you listen to the "sound" and "feel"...you can hear and feel it working.
I keep all 8 sides wet and I do use enough "clay lube" for LOTS of lubricity
 
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