Cheapest Digital Camera that can capture paint flaws

L

Lumadar

New member
Hi guys and gals...



I've tried out about 6 different relatively cheap cameras ($125-200~) and not a single one could get the true close-up shots needed to show micro marring, swirls, etc.



I even tried a Nikon DSLR D100 but it had the stock lens and couldn't take the close-ups either! :soscared:



So..... how cheap can I go and still get a camera that is reliable at getting the "money" shots? :nixweiss
 
Yea if you're not getting it with the D80 then something is wrong... Someone pointed out to me a while back that you can give a guy a $100,000 camera but if you're not an artist it dosen't matter.
 
You will be better off with a point and shoot and not a DSLR. The P&S should have manual focus ability and Macro. You can get this on a DSLR but not nearly cheaply and still the P&S will have better DOF due to it's sensor size. You might begin your search here: Buying Guide: Features Search: Digital Photography Review



You should also evaluate whether you have other photographic needs besides paint defects. Like long telephoto, low light, external flash, etc. Might you be taking portraits, family snapshots, vacation, nature photos?



If I were to buy a P&S today it likely would be one of these:

Fujifilm FinePix S8100fd ($310)

Nikon CoolPix P80 ($340)

Olympus SP-570UZ ($365)

Panasonic Lumix DMC-FZ28 ($320)
 
Do you mean to say Nikon rather than Nokia? If so, assuming you have even the crappiest of after market lenses, I can't imagine you not being able to capture defects. And I'm no photographer by any means.
 
The S3 IS was a great camera for the money, although the S5 has replaced it...I like the S3 better though, due to the physical placement of some features. The macro mode worked great. IIRC, A dSLR would require a macro lens to get as physically close to the paint defects. However, I normally don't have any issues capturing defects with my new dSLR with the 18-55mm kit lens, closest focusing distance being 9.8 in. The ability to easily change manual settings has made my new dSLR worth the price increase, but required some time getting used to.
 
I use an olympus sp-350. It's a higher end point and shoot with manual focus and a macro that's able to focus as close as 1 inch from the lens. If you want to capture defects you don't need to get that close. You just need the proper lighting. A point source light helps to show lots of swirls and holograms. I use a bright led flashlight with the reflector removed and from about 3-4 feet away no defects can hide in the reflection from it's unforgiving harsh light.
 
The fact that you tried a Nokia D80 leads me to suspect you know very little about photography.



A point and shoot with macro capability will allow you to take extreme close ups. My old Nikon 950 Coolpix has great macro capability and I can fill the entire frame with a U.S. dime. Many of the current Nikon point and shoots have macro capability.



Besides lighting there is one very important factor to consider when photographing cars (especially paint close-ups):



Auto focus reads contrast. That means when you're trying to take a picture of the paint on the hood, the auto focus will probably not work. The easiest way to introduce contrast into the frame and give the auto focus something to lock onto is to put your finger in the picture. Just put it on the surface pointing to the defect.
 
STG said:
The fact that you tried a Nokia D80 leads me to suspect you know very little about photography.



A point and shoot with macro capability will allow you to take extreme close ups. My old Nikon 950 Coolpix has great macro capability and I can fill the entire frame with a U.S. dime. Many of the current Nikon point and shoots have macro capability.



Besides lighting there is one very important factor to consider when photographing cars (especially paint close-ups):



Auto focus reads contrast. That means when you're trying to take a picture of the paint on the hood, the auto focus will probably not work. The easiest way to introduce contrast into the frame and give the auto focus something to lock onto is to put your finger in the picture. Just put it on the surface pointing to the defect.
Click to expand...



That was an amazing camera. Probably one of the best image quality p&s cameras ever made.
 
STG said:
The fact that you tried a Nokia D80 leads me to suspect you know very little about photography.



A point and shoot with macro capability will allow you to take extreme close ups. My old Nikon 950 Coolpix has great macro capability and I can fill the entire frame with a U.S. dime. Many of the current Nikon point and shoots have macro capability.



Besides lighting there is one very important factor to consider when photographing cars (especially paint close-ups):



Auto focus reads contrast. That means when you're trying to take a picture of the paint on the hood, the auto focus will probably not work. The easiest way to introduce contrast into the frame and give the auto focus something to lock onto is to put your finger in the picture. Just put it on the surface pointing to the defect.
Click to expand...



Shoot me, I wrote Nokia instead of Nikon at 1:30 in the morning. :rolleyes:



I'm perfectly aware of the difference, and just had a brain fart. I am by NO means an expert at using cameras, but I do have some knowledge. (For example, your tip about using my finger is evident in 90% of my pics which are starring none other than...My finger! :har: )



My sister is a professional photographer for weddings and special events, family photos etc, and her Nikon D100 (Found out my brother has the D80, she has a D100) simply, positively can NOT do ultra close up shots.



She even tried a few with no luck.



I am looking for REAL pictures that actually reveal MICRO scratches and micro marring- I'm not looking for the typical camera that can shoot a couple shots from 10 feet away in the shade and claim perfect paint is the reason it looks so good.



At this point I am considering just getting a macro lens for the D100 rather than a new camera.



**Thanks to the few that actually attempted to help :thx
 
Hmmmmm. She must have a long lense on it, but even if so, all you have to do it stand back and zoom in on the defect. You have to manually focus it though.



I have a D40 and I love the close up shots I get with my camera. If you do not manually focus it, it will not show the defect. Depending on the lense, you still have to stand back a few feet and zoom in on the defect while manually focusing it.
 
Nikkor Macro lenses for the Nikon start around $750 in the grey market and rise rapidly. IMHO, You'd be much better off with one of the new P&S models suggested.
 
I just purchased this Canon SX110 IS. It has macro mode as well as manual focus capability. Add a 10X optical zoom, a 9 megapixel sensor, very nice 3" viewing screen, and you've got a great little p&s. And, it's powered by 2 - AA batteries so you can use any rechargeable or throw in some Duracells in a pinch.



PowerShot SX110 IS Digital Camera



MSRP is $299, which is what they had it for at Best Buy. I was able to pick mine up for $269 delivered from a place in Indiana thru eBay.



Canon PowerShot SX110 IS Camera USA IN STOCK Black&Silv - eBay (item 270278752244 end time Sep-29-08 07:20:43 PDT)



I haven't tried to take any "defect" shots yet, but with the macro and auto focus features, I'm 100% confident it will work great.
 
rydawg said:
Hmmmmm. She must have a long lense on it, but even if so, all you have to do it stand back and zoom in on the defect. You have to manually focus it though.



I have a D40 and I love the close up shots I get with my camera. If you do not manually focus it, it will not show the defect. Depending on the lense, you still have to stand back a few feet and zoom in on the defect while manually focusing it.
Click to expand...



I agree. It's all about the focus (and lighting). Most P&S cameras should be able to manually focus, and it should be even easier to do with a dSLR.
 
We have a Nikon D200 and a very fine macro lens (Micro-Nikkor 55MM/3.5) (it's manual focus, available for less than $100) and do a fair amount of macro shooting. We also have a Canon PowerShot A530 which has a quite usable macro feature, which I have used for a number of close-ups. Success in this type of shooting depends much more on the skill of the photographer than the equipment. I would also suggest a point and shoot, easier to work with the screen. Any of the PowerShots with macro priced under $200 should be fine.
 
I have a few professional photographers as friends...I think I am going to ask for a little crash course.



In fact, tonight one of them brought over his Nikon and lens you mentioned, plus some special opaque plastic diffuser with some crazy name and he played around with that and no flash and didn't have a lot of luck.



Granted, it was dark out and the lighting in the garage is terrible. We're going to try again tomorrow in the sun. I'm expecting much better results...
 
I have a Nikon N90s (from the 35mm days). I don't use it anymore since I'm tired of scanning prints / negatives into Photoshop, but if you have a Nikon body one possible trick is a basic 50mm lens and a lens reversal ring.



2657 Nikon BR-2A 52mm Lens Reversing Ring



Not the cleanest macro look, but it works in a pinch and on a budget. You lose the ability to "focus" and you have to adjust your distance-to-subject by moving the camera itself, not the focusing ring (at least that's what I remember). I have no idea whether this works properly on the DSLRs though (because I quite frankly don't want to shell out money for them yet).



Keep in mind that most lenses for SLRs have a minimum-focusing distance. Any closer to your subject than this distance and your lens can no longer adjust to keep it in focus. It's just like your eye - you can't focus on something one inch away. Macro lenses are an exception to this rule, of course.
 
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