CD2 Engine Detailer Great Stuff!
- Thread starter tcfool
- Start date
tcfool
Detailing Fool
Matt M said:
Matt, thanks for sharing bro... I love 303 it is my favorite product for sure... Please do keep trying to inform folks as to whats in a product... knowledge is nothing if not shared... controversy will always abound... it is kind of healthy to debate sometimes... thanks again...:wavey
TC
:doh
Thats funny today I went to Kmart for some fishing stuff and took my usual stroll to the automotive section. I noticed a can of CD2 Engine Detailer on a shelf at the end of the aisle marked down to $1.50. I remember someone at the Poorboy's Detailing Day saying it was good, but when I read the back it seemed like a product similiar to any other protectant. Saying how it cleans plastic. I'm just wondering if it cleans metal to?? Or if i should use GUNK degreaser then follow the plastic up with Armor All??
TortoiseAWD
New member
So you won't take Meg's marketing material as evidence that silicones aren't harmful, but you will accept 303's marketing material as proof that they are?Matt M said:
As you point out, what would you expect them to write?
Tort
Tort....good point, and understood. I guess I use the 303 info as it furthers my arguement. People that think silicones are "good" are never going to change their minds. But, at least it seems in this thread the others are willing to hear the other guy's side. Here's why I avoid them...at least on rubber....
As I mentioned on another post, when Stoner's products were first released, I got a free can at Carlisle. I used it (MSLT for Tires) and was very pleased. I even went on to use some of their other products. After some time, I noticed that the two vehicles I had used MSLT on had began dry rotting the sidewalls. I talked to some folks "in the know" about tires, and they asked what I had been using as a protectant. They continued that dry rot and sidewall failure can be due to petroleum and-or silicone based dressings.....just like 303 says in their "marketing material". After being told about silicones and deciding not to use them...I was glad to find out about 303.
Since replacing these tires, I have not used a silicone or petroleum based dressing and they have not dry rotted. Another note of interest is that these vehicles are now used less than before, so dry rotting should be more of a problem.
On my restored cars, I use reproduction Goodyear Polyglas tires. When I bought a set many years ago, I was warned against using any type of solvent based or silicone based dressing. In fact, they also warned against using Westley's Bleeche White too.
When I was told these things by tire folks about modern car tires, I frankly thought it was....at least a bit...BS. When the guys that make and sell the repro tires said the same thing, it hit home. On restored cars, tires have to last much longer as they won't get driven 20,000 miles per year. They know that dry rotting and the like could be a real concern.
I'm no scientist, but like most here, I know what looks good. Even if the "chance" of silicone damage is possible, why take a chance when a product like 303 works so well? Even Meguiar's in some of their lines offer products with or without silicones.
As I mentioned on another post, when Stoner's products were first released, I got a free can at Carlisle. I used it (MSLT for Tires) and was very pleased. I even went on to use some of their other products. After some time, I noticed that the two vehicles I had used MSLT on had began dry rotting the sidewalls. I talked to some folks "in the know" about tires, and they asked what I had been using as a protectant. They continued that dry rot and sidewall failure can be due to petroleum and-or silicone based dressings.....just like 303 says in their "marketing material". After being told about silicones and deciding not to use them...I was glad to find out about 303.
Since replacing these tires, I have not used a silicone or petroleum based dressing and they have not dry rotted. Another note of interest is that these vehicles are now used less than before, so dry rotting should be more of a problem.
On my restored cars, I use reproduction Goodyear Polyglas tires. When I bought a set many years ago, I was warned against using any type of solvent based or silicone based dressing. In fact, they also warned against using Westley's Bleeche White too.
When I was told these things by tire folks about modern car tires, I frankly thought it was....at least a bit...BS. When the guys that make and sell the repro tires said the same thing, it hit home. On restored cars, tires have to last much longer as they won't get driven 20,000 miles per year. They know that dry rotting and the like could be a real concern.
I'm no scientist, but like most here, I know what looks good. Even if the "chance" of silicone damage is possible, why take a chance when a product like 303 works so well? Even Meguiar's in some of their lines offer products with or without silicones.
TortoiseAWD
New member
Matt,
You still, I think, are missing the larger point. Most of us will agree that solvent/silicone based dressings aren't the best thing in the world for tires, and I tend to stick with 303, Vinylex, and other PDMS formulations myself. Most of us are also aware that migratory silicones can be a Bad Thing<sup>®</sup> in a paint shop environment.
Now, all that said, MOST of us go through tires quickly enough that dry rot is never a problem. Hence, solvent and silicone in dressings is much less of an issue, if one at all, for those of us with daily drivers. I'd wager that for > 99% of us, tire sidewalls cracking or failing for any reason prior to the tread being worn away is a non-issue. Of course, as you point out, garage queens or classics that don't see much road time may have a real concern, but for the rest of us flogging the daily driver around town, it's highly likely that we'll run out of tread long before any sidewall damage from silicone, real or imagined, should appear.
As for using wax or sealants that contain some amount of silicone on your paint, I've not seen any research presented here to indicate that silicones are harmful to cured paints. To my knowledge, they're only a problem in a body shop environment where re-painting is taking place. If a body shop isn't competent enough to clean panels of all traces of wax and sealant before painting (regardless of whether the wax/sealant was silicone-based), I don't want them anywhere near my car with a paint gun.
So, use what you like. If you're happier using what you believe are silicone-free products, then by all means, continue to do so. However, the warnings in mulitiple threads of the dangers of the evil silicone monster, when there is no major body of evidence (marketing blurbs notwithstanding) to support the premise, sounds more and more like the sky is falling.
Tort
You still, I think, are missing the larger point. Most of us will agree that solvent/silicone based dressings aren't the best thing in the world for tires, and I tend to stick with 303, Vinylex, and other PDMS formulations myself. Most of us are also aware that migratory silicones can be a Bad Thing<sup>®</sup> in a paint shop environment.
Now, all that said, MOST of us go through tires quickly enough that dry rot is never a problem. Hence, solvent and silicone in dressings is much less of an issue, if one at all, for those of us with daily drivers. I'd wager that for > 99% of us, tire sidewalls cracking or failing for any reason prior to the tread being worn away is a non-issue. Of course, as you point out, garage queens or classics that don't see much road time may have a real concern, but for the rest of us flogging the daily driver around town, it's highly likely that we'll run out of tread long before any sidewall damage from silicone, real or imagined, should appear.
As for using wax or sealants that contain some amount of silicone on your paint, I've not seen any research presented here to indicate that silicones are harmful to cured paints. To my knowledge, they're only a problem in a body shop environment where re-painting is taking place. If a body shop isn't competent enough to clean panels of all traces of wax and sealant before painting (regardless of whether the wax/sealant was silicone-based), I don't want them anywhere near my car with a paint gun.
So, use what you like. If you're happier using what you believe are silicone-free products, then by all means, continue to do so. However, the warnings in mulitiple threads of the dangers of the evil silicone monster, when there is no major body of evidence (marketing blurbs notwithstanding) to support the premise, sounds more and more like the sky is falling.
Tort
Tort...I hope this is taken in the same non-emotional manner that it was written with.
I thought that users of CD2 would like to know what was in the product. I took the time to call and find out. That way, they can make up their own minds as to what they choose to use.
After my research, I have decided that I will avoid silicones when possible. If others choose to use them......all the best.
That said, I am going to no longer post anything having to do with ingredients here on Autopia. it's not worth the aggravation and effort. It seems that at this site, when someone takes some initiative and gets some info, or does a test....they get slammed more than thanked.
I thought that users of CD2 would like to know what was in the product. I took the time to call and find out. That way, they can make up their own minds as to what they choose to use.
After my research, I have decided that I will avoid silicones when possible. If others choose to use them......all the best.
That said, I am going to no longer post anything having to do with ingredients here on Autopia. it's not worth the aggravation and effort. It seems that at this site, when someone takes some initiative and gets some info, or does a test....they get slammed more than thanked.