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- Thread starter jojo69
- Start date
Well, definitely cleared then. It's comprised a base grey color topped by red color and finally a clear.
At least the mystery is solved.
As for how to go about addressing your initial question, tough one without having a rotary on hand. Considering you are willing to potentially go with a repaint, I would spend the money and get a used Makita, a backing plate, a wool pad and a couple of foam pads and try out wet sanding and learning to use a buffer. That way, if you do damage during the learning stages of wetsanding and buffing, it's no big deal as you were going to paint anyway.
If you don't damage the car and you get it looking better, it ends up being a cheaper alternative then going straight to paint if you are ok with the idea that even with wetsanding etc. you'll only make it slightly better probably and not anywhere near perfect.
At least the mystery is solved.
As for how to go about addressing your initial question, tough one without having a rotary on hand. Considering you are willing to potentially go with a repaint, I would spend the money and get a used Makita, a backing plate, a wool pad and a couple of foam pads and try out wet sanding and learning to use a buffer. That way, if you do damage during the learning stages of wetsanding and buffing, it's no big deal as you were going to paint anyway.
If you don't damage the car and you get it looking better, it ends up being a cheaper alternative then going straight to paint if you are ok with the idea that even with wetsanding etc. you'll only make it slightly better probably and not anywhere near perfect.
paco said:As for how to go about addressing your initial question, tough one without having a rotary on hand. Considering you are willing to potentially go with a repaint, I would spend the money and get a used Makita, a backing plate, a wool pad and a couple of foam pads and try out wet sanding and learning to use a buffer. That way, if you do damage during the learning stages of wetsanding and buffing, it's no big deal as you were going to paint anyway. If you don't damage the car and you get it looking better, it ends up being a cheaper alternative then going straight to paint if you are ok with the idea that even with wetsanding etc. you'll only make it slightly better probably and not anywhere near perfect.
Thanks for the input & follow thru on the thread paco! It seems like the repaint will happen down the road, so to speak for budgeting issues. It's also likely that if i do try to do it myself (wet sanding etc...), i would still not be satisfied with the results and so i may just circumvent all this and re-paint whenever i can do it. This will only happen if i have a 2nd car to be my DD...
In the meantime, I think, as some have suggested, that i will continue to look for & buy a DA for maintenance/care of the car. I think the sides are in good enough condition that minimal corrections with a DA could yield satisfying results (for a newb like me & for a 18 y.o. car, and greater results than by hand!). The rear bumper's paint is peeling anywayz & and clear coat cracking. The original paint on the roof and hood, as seen in the pictures... well, they are what they are and i will continue to keep them as protected as i can until paint time... I have tried UC back when i first bought the bottle...by hand, it helped a bit, but wasn't quite as much of a difference as i had anticipated & hoped for... Maybe with a DA i will get better results...
Until then, power hand tools, and the products i have will have to do the job!!
Thanks for all the input guyz!
PS: Just received my ONR product last night! I'm european and the whole non-metric system i'm still not used too... what is an easy way to measure 1 oz?
jojo69 said:Thanks for the input & follow thru on the thread paco! It seems like the repaint will happen down the road, so to speak for budgeting issues. It's also likely that if i do try to do it myself (wet sanding etc...), i would still not be satisfied with the results and so i may just circumvent all this and re-paint whenever i can do it. This will only happen if i have a 2nd car to be my DD...
In the meantime, I think, as some have suggested, that i will continue to look for & buy a DA for maintenance/care of the car. I think the sides are in good enough condition that minimal corrections with a DA could yield satisfying results (for a newb like me & for a 18 y.o. car, and greater results than by hand!). The rear bumper's paint is peeling anywayz & and clear coat cracking. The original paint on the roof and hood, as seen in the pictures... well, they are what they are and i will continue to keep them as protected as i can until paint time... I have tried UC back when i first bought the bottle...by hand, it helped a bit, but wasn't quite as much of a difference as i had anticipated & hoped for... Maybe with a DA i will get better results...
Until then, power hand tools, and the products i have will have to do the job!!
Thanks for all the input guyz!
PS: Just received my ONR product last night! I'm european and the whole non-metric system i'm still not used too... what is an easy way to measure 1 oz?
2 Capfuls ;-)