Case in point: any suggestions?

J

jojo69

New member
Ok, this is the roof of my car...

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As the (poor quality) pictures show, the car color is faded... I have no idea if it's the paint, the clear coat etc...



products available for this project:

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as well as : M#16 & collinite 854





It would be done by hand and/or using a 6" OTC DA (motor is .35A with 1 speed@ 2600rpm - i know, puny but only thing available right now) with foam/wool/MF bonnets.



thanks for ur input!



My thoughts: Figured I'd ask your thoughts on this work!
 
jojo69 said:
Ok, this is the roof of my car...
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What year make/model of vehicle? First thing I'd do is determine whether it's paint or clear coat that you're dealing with. Take a small bit of Ultimate Compound on a polishing pad and work a small, inconspicuous test spot. If red pigment comes off on your pad that's good, meaning you're dealing with single stage paint and you have a chance at saving it. If you get no pigment it means clear coat and while you might see some improvement the worst of the pics looks like it might be clear coat failure... which only a trip to the spray booth will fix.



Be interested in what you discover. Hopefully it's single stage. There isn't much more gratifying than restoring red single stage because the transformations can be amazing!



TL
 
not sure what car we're talking about here but to add to TLmitchel, it could simply be a case of oxidation--which depending on how stubborn it is could potentially be a nightmare.



Try accumulator's fav chemical decontamination system perhaps? (Valu-gaurd ABC system)

then clay

then try compound.
 
TLMitchell said:
What year make/model of vehicle?
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1992 Honda Civic - Mostly FL life (ie: sun)





TLMitchell said:
First thing I'd do is determine whether it's paint or clear coat that you're dealing with. TL
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Will have pic in a few, but I'm pretty sure answer is i get pink/red discoloration as i rub in compound... will x2 check though...
 
yakky's likely right--the fading is most likely indicative of cc failure. The CC's generally have UV protection--when that's gone the sun fades out the paint...i THINK '92 paints have cc...(the more seasoned guys probably have a better idea)
 
MF+compound+area

P1020706.jpg






MF after 15s of polishing at 48Degrees out. (car's been outside since noon).

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so, yes this corroborates my experience of detailing the car in which i often find my pads to become pinkish after a bit...
 
so it's sounding like a majority for cc failure...



Guess I'll have to deal with it until i can afford body/paint job!



Thanks for the input peeps!!:happy:
 
What's the rest of the car looking like? Is the hood or trunk similar or in better shape?



By hand on a car roof eh.. that's a chore and a half for any serious amount of hand polishing or just leave well enough alone. However, if you really want to try something out.



Checkout several threads at Meguiars Online about how to use UC by hand and give it a go. You may even want to get yourself some high grade sanding paper in several grits - start at 1500, then 2000, then 3000.. maybe even up to 4000 and then UC (either Meguiars Unigrit, Micromesh. Test it out in a 12" x 12" area towards the back 1st before attempting the whole roof. It'll always be pitted, but you might at least get it somewhat level and bring back some shine. However, considering the decay, any UV protection from the clear is gone so top with a strong sealant or at the very least, finish off with Nufinish.



Good luck.
 
paco said:
What's the rest of the car looking like? Is the hood or trunk similar or in better shape?
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Hood and roof are the only ones like that. No peeling, just discoloration. I noticed that the rear bumper is losing clear coat (based on other images i saw searching online). the rest of the car is in decent shape.



Thanks for the input paco!
 
The red paint on the wax pad tells me that it is singel stage paint enemal. Take ur finger and rub back and fourth and red paint will be on ur finger.U will more than likely have to repaint. U can make it shine but it will be back just like that first time u wash it.
 
Ok. I have been postponing a re-paint because of $$, time and it's my DD. But Seems like it's due...



So, what is the best way of maintaining a car that has different paint afflicitons depending on the area... Do you treat every section independently? Thus, in this situation? Do i treat the roof&hood differently than the car's sides where the paint is in a better state?



If so, then what would you not bother doing/applying on the hood & roof you would apply on the sides of the car?
 
sparklescarwash said:
The red paint on the wax pad tells me that it is singel stage paint enemal. Take ur finger and rub back and fourth and red paint will be on ur finger.U will more than likely have to repaint. U can make it shine but it will be back just like that first time u wash it.
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I think the minor red transfer has more to do with the clear having been eroded off and the pad coming into contact with Red Paint vs. it being a single stage paint. If it was a single stage heavily oxidized, I would have expected a much greater transfer of paint to the pad.



But that's my guess.
 
jojo69 said:
Ok. I have been postponing a re-paint because of $$, time and it's my DD. But Seems like it's due...



So, what is the best way of maintaining a car that has different paint afflicitons depending on the area... Do you treat every section independently? Thus, in this situation? Do i treat the roof&hood differently than the car's sides where the paint is in a better state?



If so, then what would you not bother doing/applying on the hood & roof you would apply on the sides of the car?
Click to expand...



You might want to consider a complete repaint or else you'll end up with most likely a 2 tonned finish where the hood,roof and trunk dont make the verticals on the car. Getting the doors and fenders painted will probably cost you on a few bucks more and you'll be much happier with having everything consistent.



Either way, care is the same once the paint has cured fully. You might find when polishing or waxing, the the grip on the pad might be different on the old paint vs. new paint. Polishing, you might find removing swirls on the 2 types of paint might require slightly different techniques or swirls eliminating polishes due to the different hardnesses of the clears.
 
paco said:
I think the minor red transfer has more to do with the clear having been eroded off and the pad coming into contact with Red Paint vs. it being a single stage paint. If it was a single stage heavily oxidized, I would have expected a much greater transfer of paint to the pad.



But that's my guess.
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1992 did not use clear only singel stage. Besides usually when clear goes bad it pops, crackes or peals, or flakes because it is a 2 stage paint.
 
Are you sure about that? Found this on a honda forum:



1992 Honda Civic Color Codes



orino Red Pearl Clearcoat R-72P

Sonoma Red Pearl Clearcoat R-75P

Milano Red Tricoat/Clearcoat R-81



Celestial Blue Pearl Clearcoat B-53P

Cobalt Blue Pearl Clearcoat B-54P

Concord Blue Metallic Clearcoat B-58M

Captiva Blue Pearl Clearcoat B-62P

Harvard Blue Pearl Clearcoat B-63P

Tahitian Green Pearl Clearcoat BG-28P

Geneva Green Pearl Clearcoat G-62P

Opal Green Metallic Clearcoat G-73M

Fiesta Green Pearl Clearcoat GY-15P

Champion White Clearcoat NH0

Granada Black Metallic Clearcoat NH-503P

Flint Black Metallic Clearcoat NH-526M

Pewter Gray Metallic Clearcoat NH-537M

Frost White NH-538

Vogue Silver Metallic Clearcoat NH-550M

Phantom Gray Pearl Clearcoat NH-561P T

Rosewood Brown Metallic Clearcoat YR-503M



jojo69, can you check your vin or door to see if the codes above match your car?
 
paco said:
Are you sure about that? Found this on a honda forum:



1992 Honda Civic Color Codes



orino Red Pearl Clearcoat R-72P

Sonoma Red Pearl Clearcoat R-75P

Milano Red Tricoat/Clearcoat R-81



Celestial Blue Pearl Clearcoat B-53P

Cobalt Blue Pearl Clearcoat B-54P

Concord Blue Metallic Clearcoat B-58M

Captiva Blue Pearl Clearcoat B-62P

Harvard Blue Pearl Clearcoat B-63P

Tahitian Green Pearl Clearcoat BG-28P

Geneva Green Pearl Clearcoat G-62P

Opal Green Metallic Clearcoat G-73M

Fiesta Green Pearl Clearcoat GY-15P

Champion White Clearcoat NH0

Granada Black Metallic Clearcoat NH-503P

Flint Black Metallic Clearcoat NH-526M

Pewter Gray Metallic Clearcoat NH-537M

Frost White NH-538

Vogue Silver Metallic Clearcoat NH-550M

Phantom Gray Pearl Clearcoat NH-561P T

Rosewood Brown Metallic Clearcoat YR-503M



jojo69, can you check your vin or door to see if the codes above match your car?
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Guss im not so sure then. My bad . I would of bet u any thing that in 1992 honda did not use clear. But I am sure about how a clear will go bad like I said it will peal ,crack bust ,flake,pop all the way to the base color.It is a two stage paint.
 
I've seen a few clear failures similar to the one above. The flaking ones I have seen (i don't detail for a living) tend to be more recent i.e. late 90's or 2000's. If I had to take a guess, I would say it may have to do with the solvents being used now vs. back in the day when VOCs were less regulated.



Maybe someone like RonK or someone more intimate in clear chemistry and changes overs the years can validate the hypothesis.
 
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