Car Polish on Guitar?

A

abe lincoln

New member
Does anyone have any experience buffing out swirl marks on paint finishes other than cars? I have a couple of guitars (a used acoustic electric that i just bought and a crappy peavey electric that will be the guinea pig) that have swirl marks on them and I would like to try out my new PC on them. I'm guessing I'll need something that's not very abrasive at all, how does #9 SMR sound? I just want the finish to look like new and all the guitar polishes I've tried are very greasy and just make the finish a little bit shiny. This may be a dumb question, please take it easy on a detailing n00b :nixweiss
 
I would start out with the least abrasive product in a test area.



PS. My Gibson recommends Pinnacle Wax.
 
I wouldn't recommend using auto polish or wax on guitars. Yes, it would most likely remove the swirls but at what cost. You're using harsh chemicals and abrasive materials on a painted wood finish. I shiver at the thought of what this would do to the tone of the instrument. I spoke to a luthier a long time ago regarding this and he said polishing compounds would seep into the wood pores and would be very bad. After hearing that I didn't want to chance ruining a $1,000+ instrument. Hmmm I think this might be my first post here (I'm usually a lurker) but couldn't help but chime in on this one.
 
I think Taylor put a coat of Turtle Wax on each gloss finish guitar before shipping it out.



Any idea how to treat a satin finished back/side solid wood acoustic???

I have seen people use Meguiar deep crystal #1,2,3 on an OM-15 to shine it up(all Mohogany).



I am going to get a Martin Smartwood Jumbo pretty soon so need any advise. I will probably put a coat of Z2 on the gloss top.



What about a satin solid wood neck?? How to reduce play wear??
 
I have a collection of custom Pool cues with values of $2,000. to $14,000. and used to use Martin's Guitar wax,swiched to "Souvern",it leaves a fantastic finish.
 
I tried to use a quality auto polish on my Pearl lacquered wood drums many years ago, and it was a disaster. I don't remember exactly which polish I used, but it was definitely too abrasive... leaving finish dull and scratchy. Luckily I did a test in an inconspicuous area. I've been using Pledge polish ever since, and it work wonderfully.
 
Just a note,



I've sanded down and buffed out a numbes of guitar bodies in my life, usually older ones with orginal paint, or newer ones where the guy has had it painted and wants a flawless finish on it.



I wetsand, cut, buff and polish just like I do a car and get the same results.



I think most guitars now a days are being painted with automotive brands of paints, ( can check with a couple of reps and find out).



If they're not, then their being sprayed with lacquer. The furniture business is the same way, 90%+ of the furniture that is "finished", (they don't like the word "Painted", in the furniture industry) is finished/painted with old fashioned lacquer.



Because furniture/wood things/guitars are "Indoor" items, you don't have the durabilty issues you run into with "Outdoor" items, like.... cars.



Mike
 
So do you think that #9 would be ok on a Washburn acoustic? It has a gloss finish and I've read that #9 isn't all that abrasive.
 
Hi blkstealth,





Without seeing the finish, it's hard to make an accurate recommendation.



What does it look like right now?

What do you want it to look like when your through?



All of the guitars I have worked on I have machine polished with a rotary buffer to remove scratches and pitting caused by the acids in human body oils and sweat.





On one particular fender from the 70's, this pitting was rather deep. The guitar owner said to "go for it", if I went through the finish that this would be okay and he would have it repainted.



The important thing to him was to have the guitar looking in top condition again, he didn't like the pitting.



I have pictures of "Before and After" somewhere as well as him holding it during the process. (Think about it, "someone" has to hold the thing while you bring the foam pad spinning at 2000 rpm down on it and start chopping away at the finish!).



General recommendations



Hand: Gently apply with a clean, foam wax applicator pad. Work product into finish well, buff off with either 100% cotton terry cloth or microfiber towel.



Next, apply two coats of your favorite wax



If you play this guitar then I would recommend a polymer wax that creates a barrier-film to protect against the acids in your bodies oils and sweat.



If this is for show or display, I would recommend a pure polish, forget the wax, go for “Beauty Characteristics", not long lasting durable protection� (Unless you display this in the rain!)



My machine, I would start with the #9 and either the W-9006, or the W-8006 depending on what your trying to accomplish, then go to wax.



Make sure you have somebody with strong arms and good upper body strength to hold your guitar and of course, remove the pick-ups, strings, pick guards, etc. anything you can to enable full access to the entire finish.



As an extra step, you could use the Porter Cable with the W-8006 and either DACP, or #82 before wax, but it won’t work as well as the rotary for removing pick scratches etc.



Mike
 
Thanks for the advice! :) Just to let you know, I use only Meguiar's products and so far I am very satisfied with the quality and ease of use.
 
FWIW, I've refinished several guitars, and typically the final step after wet sanding is buffing with 3M Finesse It or Perfect It. Dan Erlewine also recommends Meguiar's Mirror Glaze #9 Swirl Mark Remover
 
I treatfurniture like a soft paint finish.....be very careful with the abrasives....some polyurethanes are a bit soft.....



But do same techniques and it is surprizing how good you can make thiungs look..



It is also a good place to practice wet sanding too............
 
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