Can you guys help me decide what to use for rust? Several small spots. My idea.

W

WaxManRonnie

New member
This is a friends work truck. It has several small rust spots and I want to fill them and possibly sand them down, and repaint with some oem paint from Finish master. Or where ever I can get that exact color. I have some spray stuff that I tried that is suppose to turn the rust black and seal it from rusting worse. After I tried 2 spots with that, it didn't look much like anything sealed.

So my question is what products can I use to fill it in other than bondo?

Never did this before.
 
Do you have pictures? There is no "miracle" rust fix stuff. and no temp. way to get rid of it. Depending on if its through or not will play a big role. If it is though then the only way to truly get rid of it is to cut the metal out and weld in patches. If its not through, then you need to sand blast the area FULLY, then grind it up and wipe it with mud though I personally like to cut the metal out and replace it unless its a part I can't replace or make. Then we can start on the epoxy primer and getting it back straight. You can get the paint code and get your paint that way but it still may need tweaking. As there are some codes that have a lot of variations, yet alone if its been repainted. And possible a blend. Please for me do not use rattle can if you do decide to tackle this! If you do, your wasting your time as it will come back. So really in short it looks like this...



1. Bead/blast all metal areas clean of any contamination.

2. Wax/grease remover.

3. grind and fill w/e needs it.

4. 2 coats of good quality EPOXY primer. (not wal-mart brand)

5. block/board with 180

6. 3 coats of catalilized primer

7. block/sand to a finishing grit of 600 and paint.



So depending on the tools and in-depth you want to get it can be done or a body shop would love to do it :woohoo:
 
Pictures would help a lot... but when dealing with rust, there's only a few

tried and true methods: cut it out, blast, grind or wire wheel. Then shoot

epoxy. Forget using rust converters, ospho, and/or etch primers. There are

those die-hard old timers that swear by these antiquated methods/products

but this 2009 not 1969...



Join here: Auto body and car paint tips, techniques, and information



Post some pics and you'll get more information than you probably want to know!

There are plenty of pros there.



And even more here: Auto Body Repair - Refinish Network
 
Minor surface rust:

P1000299.jpg




Tools and abrasives used:

P1000303.jpg


P1000305.jpg




SPI epoxy (damn good):

P1000491.jpg


P1000488.jpg




From here you go straight to primer or filler (aka bondo)...



Some filler work and 2K urethane primer:

P1000459.jpg


P1000457.jpg




More of this bike: Bike 2 pictures by zsolo - Photobucket



:)
 
Never liked doing mud over epoxy. Would much rather have the mud on bare metal.
Click to expand...



If you only knew how much this has been discussed before... Depending on the

job, mud over epoxy is the way to go. I did it both ways on this project.



If you're dealing with large bare metal panels, then shooting epoxy first is best.

If it's just a small area, then either way works fine.
 
Flashtime said:
If you only knew how much this has been discussed before... Depending on the

job, mud over epoxy is the way to go. I did it both ways on this project.



If you're dealing with large bare metal panels, then shooting epoxy first is best.

If it's just a small area, then either way works fine.
Click to expand...



Yeah its just from what I've been taught, still have a lot to learn at 21, lol. I usually just get the mud worked then put epoxy over it then 2k prime and call it a day. Not sure what it is now, but a while ago when I looked a lot of paint manufactures recommend you put epoxy down before mud. But mud sheets recommend mud on bare metal. My "helper" use to say the paint manufactures wanted you to buy more epoxy, that's why they recommend filler over epoxy.



If you mud over epoxy, do you have to respray epoxy after you sand you first application of filler? I'm sure there will be some bare metal showing after the first blocking. Or do you just always have to be good enough to only apply and sand your filler one time and be done?
 
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