Can someone catch me up? I've been out of the game for a bit! What new polishes??

V

vdog0531

New member
So 5 years ago i had a vehicle i loved to keep looking top notch and i had quite a few neighbor cars and friends cars that i was taking care of. Then i got a different job and started to only take care of my own vehicle. I am finally starting to get low on polishes and wanting to get back into the detailing game. I havn't been on the board in a long time. Without having to go through a bunch of threads, can someone catch me up on what polishes are top dog right now and new sealants? For hardware, i have a makita 9227 rotary and a ol trusted PC. I have Lake country pads that are pretty new. My current stock on polishes are menzerna compound, intensive polish and final polish. I also have some meg's #80 speed glaze. For sealants, i have poorboys ex and ex-p as well as Klasse aio and sg. Sooo... I'm sure my product list is dated and maybe even my hardware is too. Can someone catch me up to date?? Suggestions on some medium and final polish? Any new sealants or wax i should know about? Thank you in advance!



Vernon
 
A few random thoughts:



-80 series megs stuff are antiques, surpassed by M105 and M205 and Optimum SPRAY stuff, and then HD Polish and Cut came along.

-The original PC is now considered very weak. Griots DA is the bargain leader but there are stronger DAs like the Rupes and Flex that make a rotary scared. You can even get a DA at Harbor Freight for under $50 that will rip your PC to shreds.

-Foam pads are considered old school, MF is in.

-KSG is no longer the durability king, Opticoat lasts for years not months.

-The hose and bucket are things of the past, ONR is preferred by most, new emerging method called the Garry Dean method for washing cars.

-Spray waxes like OCW and Megs Ultimate have surpased the durability of stuff like Poorboys EX/P.



Welcome to the furture :D
 
Dan said:
A few random thoughts:



-80 series megs stuff are antiques, surpassed by M105 and M205 and Optimum SPRAY stuff, and then HD Polish and Cut came along.

-The original PC is now considered very weak. Griots DA is the bargain leader but there are stronger DAs like the Rupes and Flex that make a rotary scared. You can even get a DA at Harbor Freight for under $50 that will rip your PC to shreds.

-Foam pads are considered old school, MF is in.

-KSG is no longer the durability king, Opticoat lasts for years not months.

-The hose and bucket are things of the past, ONR is preferred by most, new emerging method called the Garry Dean method for washing cars.

-Spray waxes like OCW and Megs Ultimate have surpased the durability of stuff like Poorboys EX/P.



Welcome to the furture :D
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thanks! this is exactly why i figured i'd start here! So for a medium and light polish, what would you suggest? for sealant, it looks like opticoat is the shiz now. Suggestion on any final wax?



EDIT: looks like you suggested HD polish and cut. my bad, missed that on my first read through
 
You don't need anything more on top of Opticoat but OCW works well for added bling. The layering/topping stuff died most places after someone proved it there was no build in film thickness after two coats. Its still alive and kicking on AG though, improves sales and whatnot.
 
Dan said:
You don't need anything more on top of Opticoat but OCW works well for added bling. The layering/topping stuff died most places after someone proved it there was no build in film thickness after two coats. Its still alive and kicking on AG though, improves sales and whatnot.
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ok cool. So thoughts on the makita 9227? I remember back in the day everyone was afraid of the rotary, and i'm sure they still are (which is why so many more da polishers have come out since then) but for me, i feel very comfortable with the rotary and has given me the ability to do big corrections and also light touch ups with the proper products. Is there a new/better rotary on the market? has the rotary been put to the waist side with this Flex da you talked about?
 
Hi there and welcome back to the detailing world



After testing 110 brands of polishes and 100 brands of other detail products in thirteen years, I reckon these two lead the way

Xpert Waterbourne Single polish systems

3D HD series



The reason is simple - superior abrasive systems and formulations and extremely versatile



Use one polish, two or all three at once or use them separately in any order you like

For example - softest polish with most aggressive pads, heaviest polish with lightest pads or all of them in any ratio you wish. Couldn't do that with conventional compound, polish, glaze systems



As for the Makita 9227 - it is still viable and is a serious contender for most powerful tool in the industry when combined with the Dynabrade 61384/85 DA head

I have two DA heads in my arsenal (big thanks to barry theal) - I wouldn't of known about it without you sir



It's given the rotary a way to remain viable although jewelling is still best done via rotary but that's only performed 20% of the time when I detail



Dynabrade is 19mm orbit throw, forced and RO modes and 4 1/2 to 8 inch pads can be used

that and a modified or original surbuf pad, wool, rayon or MF pad is a weapon of mass destruction



although the flex and rupes are definately right there with it and often the better, more ergonomic option
 
SVR said:
Hi there and welcome back to the detailing world



After testing 110 brands of polishes and 100 brands of other detail products in thirteen years, I reckon these two lead the way

Xpert Waterbourne Single polish systems

3D HD series



The reason is simple - superior abrasive systems and formulations and extremely versatile



Use one polish, two or all three at once or use them separately in any order you like

For example - softest polish with most aggressive pads, heaviest polish with lightest pads or all of them in any ratio you wish. Couldn't do that with conventional compound, polish, glaze systems



As for the Makita 9227 - it is still viable and is a serious contender for most powerful tool in the industry when combined with the Dynabrade 61384/85 DA head

I have two DA heads in my arsenal (big thanks to barry theal) - I wouldn't of known about it without you sir



It's given the rotary a way to remain viable although jewelling is still best done via rotary but that's only performed 20% of the time when I detail



Dynabrade is 19mm orbit throw, forced and RO modes and 4 1/2 to 8 inch pads can be used

that and a modified or original surbuf pad, wool, rayon or MF pad is a weapon of mass destruction



although the flex and rupes are definately right there with it and often the better, more ergonomic option
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awesome, thank you for the input! i just received my 32 oz hd polish and some a couple foam pads. Will be trying them out on a few cars next week. Although there are "better" sealants out there, i'm going to finish using up my klasse sg and poorboys until i decide what i want to do next for that. Although they may be outdated compared to some products out there now, they still will provide great protection and shine for the time being. Are there "spray sealants" out now? I see that ocw seems to be popular but that is a wax, which serves a great purpose, but i'm wondering if there are sprayable sealants on the market. I could justify buying something like that due to the time savings for application and removal. Thanks again for all the input!
 
KSG is great stuff if you can deal with the unique looks and application issues. It is the most bullet proof stuff besides OC.
 
i can relate to the OP, i am also an 'oldtimer' on here, and just getting back into to some casual detailing this spring..



i also have an antiquaded PC and a Hitachi Rotary..and used Meguiars M85, M83, M80 exclusively as my Go too's..



but i've stepped into the now, with a new order of m205 and m105..i'll be giving them a shot..they even seem old now !!



anyway, cheers !
 
vdog0531 said:
Are there "spray sealants" out now? I see that ocw seems to be popular but that is a wax, which serves a great purpose, but i'm wondering if there are sprayable sealants on the market. I could justify buying something like that due to the time savings for application and removal. Thanks again for all the input!
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Opti-SEAL is one of the best spray sealants--wipe on walk away--no buffing. Store - Opti Seal
 
vdog0531 said:
awesome, thank you for the input! i just received my 32 oz hd polish and some a couple foam pads. Will be trying them out on a few cars next week. Although there are "better" sealants out there, i'm going to finish using up my klasse sg and poorboys until i decide what i want to do next for that. Although they may be outdated compared to some products out there now, they still will provide great protection and shine for the time being. Are there "spray sealants" out now? I see that ocw seems to be popular but that is a wax, which serves a great purpose, but i'm wondering if there are sprayable sealants on the market. I could justify buying something like that due to the time savings for application and removal. Thanks again for all the input!
Click to expand...



Yes there are spray sealants, their all I use really



Permanon Aircraft Supershine Quartz based I believe

Gtechniq C1.5 - not as slick as permanon though



I've used permanon for around three years now



10, 15 and 25 to 50% are what I use on paint, wheels and interiors, 100% for mega gloss
 
<p style="margin:0cm;"><span style="font-size:14px;"><span style="font-family:Arial;">SVR<span style="font-size:6pt;font-family:Arial;">


<p style="margin:0cm;"><span style="font-size:14px;"><span style="font-family:Arial;">I have just purchased a DAS -6 pro dual action polisher and I am intending to polish my sons Mazda MX5 with either, or both, 105 and 205, Glare micro finish it and then apply Glare pro polish. I bought a load of Glare polish a year or so ago and I am now stuck with it .Can you say whether Ctechnig C2 liquid crystal lacquer can then be used to seal  the paint without having to use any more products or is it unlikely to bond to the paint due to the prior use of the Glare products? I assume that this will retain the original Glare type gloss much better than sealing with Glare pro polish.<span style="font-size:6pt;font-family:Arial;">


<p style="margin:0cm;"><span style="font-size:14px;"><span style="font-family:Arial;">I also intend to do the above to my Audi A5 cabriolet. I have read various posts on the Detailing World forum by 'Dream Machines' and you both seem to be of a similar, if not the same, mind i.e. that products such as Xpert Ultra, High Tech and 3000 jewelling polish would be best followed by Permanon aircraft Supershine and C2. With the exception of the latter none of the foregoing products seem to be available in the <span style="font-size:6pt;font-family:Arial;"><span style="font-size:14px;">UK<span style="font-size:14px;">!!!!


<p style="margin:0cm;"><span style="font-size:14px;"><span style="font-family:Arial;">Anyway any advice would be gratefully received.<span style="font-size:6pt;font-family:Arial;">


<p style="margin:0cm;"><span style="font-size:14px;"><span style="font-family:Arial;">I am assuming that once I have detailed the Audi, which is coming up to 4 years old and in pretty good nick, that I won't be forced to work on the paint forthwith to get it to retain at least its original condition. Apologies for the question but the car cost me some £38k and I can't afford to buy another.<span style="font-size:6pt;font-family:Arial;">


<p style="margin:0cm;"><span style="font-size:14px;"><span style="font-family:Arial;">Thanks in anticipation<span style="font-size:6pt;font-family:Arial;">
 
My favorite stuff for the money, quick and dirty


 


Polisher: Harbor Freight Dual Action Polisher


Compound: Menzerna FG400


Polish: Optimum Hyper Polish or Sonax 3/6 Nano Polish


1-Stepper: 3D HD Adapt


Pads: Meguiar's 5.5" Microfiber Cutting Pads (compound), Buff & Shine Green Pads (polishing), Buff & Shine Orange Pads (1 stepping)


Prep: CarPro Eraser


Coating: Opti-Coat or CarPro Cquartz UK, either of those topped with CarPro Reload 2014 version.


Sealant: Sonax Polymer Netshield topped with Sonax Brilliant Shine Detailer
 
Polishing fiberglass.


The Mazda MX5 which I intend to start detailing on Friday has a semi front body kit and side skirts which are painted fiberglass. Does anyone know whether these can be polished with Megs 105 /205 and treated in the same way as the rest of the car body shell?


All advice appreciated.
 
TheMac- Most fiberglass bits can be polished just like the rest of the car.  If those are *painted* rather than "gelcoated" then yeah, polish them.  But fiberglass doesn't conduct heat the same way that metal does, so be a bit more gentle than usual at least until you get a feel for what you're doing.


 


On your earlier Q, while I'm no authority on the stuff, I would *NOT* expect C2 to bond to anything other than perfectly bare paint.  I wouldn't even like to apply it after polishing with M205 as the oils M205 leaves behind are very tough to remove completely.


 


I'm afraid I'm unfamiliar with most of the products you mentioned (Glare, Xpert, Permanon), but I will caution you that Audi clear is generally rather hard (I have a few Audis).
 
<span style="color:rgb(0,0,0);font-family:verdana, geneva, lucida, 'lucida grande', arial, helvetica, sans-serif;font-size:13px;background-color:rgb(245,245,255);"> I washed the MX5 last night with washing up liquid and I am just about to clay bar it. Tomorrow I intend to start the correction. The MX 5 is nearly 8 years old and is a light mink metallic colour, has some light scratching but no scuffs. I am proposing to polish it with the 205 and orange and then the white pads. Can anyone tell me is this a reasonable way forward?


 
Accumulator said:
TheMac- Most fiberglass bits can be polished just like the rest of the car.  If those are *painted* rather than "gelcoated" then yeah, polish them.  But fiberglass doesn't conduct heat the same way that metal does, so be a bit more gentle than usual at least until you get a feel for what you're doing.


 


On your earlier Q, while I'm no authority on the stuff, I would *NOT* expect C2 to bond to anything other than perfectly bare paint.  I wouldn't even like to apply it after polishing with M205 as the oils M205 leaves behind are very tough to remove completely.


 


I'm afraid I'm unfamiliar with most of the products you mentioned (Glare, Xpert, Permanon), but I will caution you that Audi clear is generally rather hard (I have a few Audis).
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Thanks for the post. I take it that following use of 105 and 205 that I would need to seal the paint with something.


<span style="background-color:rgb(245,245,255);color:rgb(0,0,0);font-family:verdana, geneva, lucida, 'lucida grande', arial, helvetica, sans-serif;font-size:13px;"> I washed the MX5 last night with washing up liquid and I am just about to clay bar it. Tomorrow I intend to start the correction. The MX 5 is nearly 8 years old and is a light mink metallic colour, has some light scratching but no scuffs. I am proposing to polish it with the 205 and orange and then the white pads. Can you say whether this a reasonable way forward?
 
TheMac- That M205/orange combo *might* be sufficiently aggressive, no way to know for certain until you try it.  Clean the pads out *VERY* frequently, and be sure to prime them correctly before use as per the Kevin Brown Method.  Don't let the oils conceal so much that you are unable to accurately ascertain the effectiveness of your corrective efforts.
 
Accumulator said:
TheMac- That M205/orange combo *might* be sufficiently aggressive, no way to know for certain until you try it.  Clean the pads out *VERY* frequently, and be sure to prime them correctly before use as per the Kevin Brown Method.  Don't let the oils conceal so much that you are unable to accurately ascertain the effectiveness of your corrective efforts.
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<span style="color:#000000;"><span style="font-family:arial;">       


<span style="color:#000000;"><span style="font-family:arial;">Thanks for the post. 


<span style="color:#000000;"><span style="font-family:arial;">Up to date the car has been washed, clay barred, had 205 'correction', been micro finished and I have just applied the first coat of Glare pro polish with a white hexlogic pad.


<span style="color:#000000;"><span style="font-family:arial;">As you know this is my first attempt at machine polishing but if the first coat of Glare is anything to go by the car has the potential to be absolutely breath taking. I am extremely pleased with progress to date. 


<span style="color:#000000;"><span style="font-family:arial;">Perhaps someone<span style="color:#000000;font-family:arial;"> can help with this. I was slightly surprised at the lack of durability of the hexlogic pads both orange and white. Perhaps the orange pad has come into contact with something sharp on the car but a significant part of the edge more or less disintegrated. Part of the white pad's edge seems to be in the very early stages of breaking away from its centre. Is this normal after using it twice?


<span style="color:#000000;"><span style="font-family:arial;">Thanks very much for the input I will certainly be seeking advice before I tackle the Audi which amongst other things I understand has an extremely hard lacquer.


<span style="color:#000000;"><span style="font-family:arial;">Any more input will be gratefully received.


<span style="color:#000000;"><span style="font-family:arial;">Regards


<span style="color:#000000;"><span style="font-family:arial;">TheMac
 
TheMac- Glad it's going well.


 


Sometimes insufficient product or too-infrequent pad cleaning can cause excessive wear.  The dried-out product can build up and wear on the pad in the absence of oils/carrier liquid.
 
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