Can I fix this?

A

apoirier594

New member
Once of my friends mom said she want her vehicle detailed. She said it was pretty bad but when I went to look at it, it looked fine. Just a few stains, some bad paint spots, and a lot of swirls. I doubt they know what swirls are.



I'll post one pic below then please click on the link to the album. My question is, can I fix the headlights, and I never have a hard time with stains or scuffs but wanted your opinion.



All I have for paint is Meg. MF paint correction for a 7424. I only have their pads, correction compound and finishing wax. I also have the OTC Ultimate compound but not sure if that and the MF pad would clear the headlights..Advice?



For shampooing I usually just use 7424 and Aqua brush attachment, hand brush, D130+, and wet/dry vac. Is that good? Thanks



I am sure they will want scuffs removed but not sure about the MF 2 step cause most car owners don't even notice swirls.



I don't know what to charge, I don't want to sell myself short but also don't want to ask to high. THANKS



DSC_0659.jpg




Below is the link to the album



12-26-11 Detail Appr pictures by apoirier594 - Photobucket
 
HenryCover said:
do it yourself save a lot money
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I am actually doing this for a friend "customer". And was just wondering if the Meg. MF kit could clean headlights or if I should use a headlight kit, and if a PC with a brush attachment can get the interior looking good.



Thanks -Austin
 
IME, the Meg's MF DA System would probably be the ticket for that job. It may take a few passes but I'm guessing those scuff marks are going to be history. I've used the MF 3+" pads and a DA on headlights worse than that with decent results. Not as crystal clear as you'd get with a multi-step wetsand and polish but I think you'll see a marked improvement. Ultimate Compound works well with MF DA.... actually about the same cutting and finishing capabilites of D300, IME. Trick is, what are you going to use to protect the headlights after they're cleaned up? I used Opti Coat and they've stood the test of time for 6 months with no appreciable degradation thus far. A simple wax or sealant isn't going to be a long term solution.



On the interior you may be able to get away with APC or you may need to break out the Folex or Tuff Stuff. Might even be a job for steam or an extractor for best results. You won't know until you start working on it.



As for pricing... figure out what you think you're worth hourly. Then estimate how long you think the job will take. Then double it if you don't do this regularly and have experience on these kinds of issues. (which I'm guessing you don't or you wouldn't be asking) You'll still probably come out on the short end of the stick moneywise if you're looking to achieve maximum results without tons of experience. Call it the price of your education.



Do make sure your friend's Mom knows she's not getting cheap, she's getting thorough. Then deliver it. If she's like most people that let their vehicle get beat up and grungy she has no idea the time, effort and materials involved or what they cost. They may not notice the swirls but once they're gone they'll notice the clarity and shine. I think you've got the potential for a real nice turnaround there.



TL
 
Thanks TL. Thats some good and encouraging advice.



Well actually I am trying to start a mobile business, but I have only corrected my paint, so thats once. I don't think they have any idea what detailing is cause I told them I'd hand wash, dry with forced air and microfiber towels, clean wheels/wheel wells, dress both. Detail engine bay, and do the whole interior. Shampooing by hand, etc. I said I'll do it at product cost for yall since she is my friends mom. Well I said $50 or $40, and they said they had to think about it like I had some steep price...lol. They probably think I'm just using bucket and old towel.



So if they say no, should I offer to do it for free if they spread the word? If so I'll blow them away, also throw in the MF 2 step. Keep in mind this was all over text so thats as much depth as I went into. When I wash I foam cannon..yall know the autopian standard, but anyway it usually takes me around 90 minutes or so just to wash and dry my truck.



Your advice is very appreciated
 
apoirier594 said:
.. My question is, can I fix the headlights...
Click to expand...



The more aggressive products may well remove the oxidation, but there's still the Q of long-term satisfaction since that might also remove the remaining UV protection.
 
apoirier594 said:
I said I'll do it at product cost for yall since she is my friends mom. Well I said $50 or $40, and they said they had to think about it like I had some steep price...lol.



So if they say no, should I offer to do it for free if they spread the word?
Click to expand...



I'm sure they don't realize you're going to have 6 - 10 hours involved in this as well as overhead for products and equipment and that type of service would run $200 or more by a seasoned professional. Seeing the condition of the car and surmising the reasons for those types of conditions I'm pretty sure they may not fully appreciate the value of your labor and they may not also be able to actually see the difference between a correction detail and a drive-through car wash. Personally, it'd stick in my craw if I offered something like that for the cost of products and someone "had to think about it"!



In addition to my own vehicles I cut my teeth and refined my product selection and techniques (such as they are) on friends and family's cars. I did a 20-hour, 3-step on a friend's black SUV that was a swirled, RID-covered mess and turned it into a shimmering jewel. She was so appreciative she drove up a dirt road (after a couple of days of rain) to show some friends her new-to-her shiney black ride.... the same day I finished it! Let me tell you, if you work your butt off on someone's neglected vehicle and they aren't the type that really cares about their car it's going to grate on you every time you see it returning slowly but surely to it's former condition! If you're getting paid market rate for your efforts then that's a whole different story.



The scrapes and scuffs as well as the interior crud leads me to believe that car isn't going to be something you want to use for a reference not too long after you finish it. I could be totally wrong but I get the feeling that'd be a job I'd pass on. Now if you want to do a freebie for the sake of practice, refining your techiniques and honing your skills, have at it. Just try not to look at the car closely a few weeks after you're finished.



TL
 
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