Burned Paint with the Dyanabrade DA Rotary tool

M

Mark Waldron

Professional Detailer
It has been said countless times it's almost impossible to burn through the paint or remove major paint imperfections with an orbital polisher. Well guess what? I burned the spoiler on a 2006 Chevy Cobalt today using a LC yellow foam pad with a 1200 grit compound. There were 2 large scratches on top of the spoiler and after buffing these areas twice I noticed the dreadful white coloring that a burnt clearcoat looks like. It was a dark blue car that was brand new. I just wanted to give a heads up on this very useful tool that creates the power that rivals a rotary. I porter 3-4 vehicles a day 6 days a week and have come to respect this setup a great deal more after todays experience.
 
I'd use a less aggressive compound with a rotary. I've used OHC and a Edge yellow cutting pad and haven't burned paint with a rotary. Some scratches can't be removed safely.
 
Alot of spoilers tend to burn easily. Could be do to there exposer that the clear deminishes faster than other areas. It could also be the painter or OEM only applied one coat of clear.
 
The reason that spoilers and the like burn more easily is that they are plastic (SMC, etc.), which has poor thermal conductivity in comparison to metal, which means that any heat built up between the pad and the part doesn't dissipate as easily as it would through a metal part.
 
Setec Astronomy said:
The reason that spoilers and the like burn more easily is that they are plastic (SMC, etc.), which has poor thermal conductivity in comparison to metal, which means that any heat built up between the pad and the part doesn't dissipate as easily as it would through a metal part.
Click to expand...



exactly



I've seen a guy burn through a Saturn body panel.



He said he didnt know it was plastic
 
Hold on fella's let's look at this. The poster said he was using the Dynabrade DA tool on a rotary machine.



Now I fully agree with what Setec and everyone had to say about plastic and running a rotary, but having actually used this tool I think this might be something else.



I say that cause if you ever used one, you would see it giggles more (alot more) than spins. So the heat build up is not the same as with a regular backing plate on the machine.



In fact short demo tells me one would need to run the machine at higher rpm's to get the equivalent amount of work from the normal plate.
 
Sorry, Morbid, I was responding more to jvriii1942's comment about spoilers burning than I was about Mark's experience with the Dynabrade, which I surely have no experience with and really don't know anything about. Actually my first thought was that a yellow pad and 1200 grit sounded pretty aggressive, but Mark does a lot of cars, he must be pretty experienced with that combo :nixweiss
 
Setec, no sweat. I only wanted to point out that the RO Tool Adapter sorta makes a rotary weaker in a way in that I don't think it gets the full revolutions as it would with a normal backing plate.



All plastic parts are a pain to work with when using a rotary machine because they can't take the heat. I never run a spot pad on them and always use low speed and keep the machine moving faster than I normally would on a metal panel.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top