Building New House - Garage Features???

Swanic, do these houses have basements? If so, we have stairs from the garage to the basement. It's a great feature for many reasons.

Lighting is critical, as already noted. Plenty of A/C outlets. Water.

I tried for the in-floor drain system but the fire marshal would not approve that.

I like the triple bay action - - you never know how many cars you might accumulate ;)

Good luck with the project. It's a lot of fun watching things take shape...especially when you have direct involvement.
 
Nice thought. If you can, I say go with 10' x 8' garage doors. Mainly because you can fit just about ANY vehicle in it.

On a side note, if you are wanting one double door and one single. I would probably do a 18' x 8' and a 10' x 8', but that door is gonna be kind of pricey. We sell an 18' x 8' Clopay 4050 without glass for $1,500 installed and the 10' x 8' is $900. They would be cheaper for pickup. Btw, if you are willing to put them in, I could possibly have garage doors drop shipped to your local Clopay distribution center. We are a master authorized dealer, so I have some pull. B)


My father used to be in gd business as well years ago
 
My AC unit is a window unit. I just had the builder put a space in the wall to accommodate it. It does a good job of cooling down the garage on days like this

Remember Bill, we're still up north here. Swanic, I'd look into a heat pump/mini split that would give you both heating and cooling in the garage, and they are very efficient. Would be independent from the house so you could turn it off if you are doing something with the door open (and only turn it on when you want to). Bad part about them is they don't have "real" filters like central air/heating, more like the kind a window air conditioner has.

And remember those new-fangled garage doors and openers have those keyless entry pads that work on a battery--what happens when that thing goes bad? You gotta go to the dealer and get a new one for $1500--at least that's what I heard. Make sure that entry door works on a key the way garage doors used to--worst idea evar.
 
Remember Bill, we're still up north here. Swanic, I'd look into a heat pump/mini split that would give you both heating and cooling in the garage, and they are very efficient. Would be independent from the house so you could turn it off if you are doing something with the door open (and only turn it on when you want to). Bad part about them is they don't have "real" filters like central air/heating, more like the kind a window air conditioner has.

And remember those new-fangled garage doors and openers have those keyless entry pads that work on a battery--what happens when that thing goes bad? You gotta go to the dealer and get a new one for $1500--at least that's what I heard. Make sure that entry door works on a key the way garage doors used to--worst idea evar.

Key pad is about 45.00
 
And remember those new-fangled garage doors and openers have those keyless entry pads that work on a battery--what happens when that thing goes bad? You gotta go to the dealer and get a new one for $1500--at least that's what I heard. Make sure that entry door works on a key the way garage doors used to--worst idea evar.

Hahaha. Touche Sir, Touche.
 
Goes without saying full insulation in the walls and ceiling--even if you don't heat/cool the garage, the insulation will help keep it warm/cool. Might want to look into one of the split units that both heat and cool as mentioned by others as you can use it only when needed rather than run it all the time with the whole house unit.

Might want to consider a half wall separating the single bay on the side --then use that as a wash bay. I only have a 2 car ( with a drain) so have to pull one car out to wash in the garage, but it is really great both summer (cool) and winter (warm) to not have to worry about water drying on the car.

You'll love the ranch set up--always had a two story, but when we moved back to PA built a ranch to prepare for old age and although we don't really need it yet it is really a joy being all on one floor.
 
You're going think this sounds silly but in all honesty I would tell you to look at the size of the garage and find out what feels adequete in floor size. Then add 5 feet to each individual or pair of bays. Your garage simply won't be wide enough. Make sure you have enough room to park two cars side by side with both vehicles doors open at the same time. Make sure you have enough room to open the door against the outside wall and still have room to move around the open door when you're vacuuming or what have you. Individual garage doors have advantages if you can work it into your footprint. 10 foot or wider garage doors at least 8 feet tall. This will insure you get your lifted truck in. The 8 foot doors of yesteryear will not accomodate a full size truck with trailer mirrors (hey you never know). Big wide doors end up sagging over time. Insulated garage doors and 6 inch insulated outside garage walls will make it so you can climatize your garage without wasiting energy. If you're going to store things in the garage make sure that you have enough room for the racks or shelving and still have room for movement between the storage space and the opened door of your vehicle.

Install your gas and electrical outlets and connections up in the ceiling where your heaters are going to be mounted. You may need gas lines or electrical connections and potentially ventillation if you're running gas. The heaters can be added later but make sure the pieces are in place to accept the heat or A/C.

As has been mentioned a seperate sub panel for the garage. You may also want to look at setting this sub panel up to be connected to a hard times generator. You simply plug your generator into the sub panel and flip a switch when there is an emergency. You can add this for not much up front but it costs quite a bit after the fact and the placement of the sub panel on an outside wall makes this easier. When an emergency is present it's nice to be able to keep the generator in the garage so it doesn't get stolen. This of course is assuming you don't have a commercial back up system. Think about where you might want a compressor or a welder, wire it for 220 up front. You may wish to install copper (proper schedule) air lines in the walls. This keeps the garage uncluttered though they do make some nice looking air lines that you can run on top of the sheet rock that looks pretty good. Think abouit where you want the compresser and the air outlets. If you can swing it and your home is oriented correctly, depending upon yor budget solar panels make a lot of sense. You can add these later but make sure you're wired for it up front.

As has also been mentioned, twice as many outlets as you think you need. Put an outlet on the outside wall of the home, several around the house just in case you want to work in the driveway. Grey water drains are great if your code allows you to have it. This said, there are precautions you can take to catch garbage (catch traps) and things that don't belong in the ground including the proper schedule rock to make a drain that can even take it away from under the garage.

If you ever consider having a lift look at creative ways to make sure you have a ceiling that will accomadate the lift (take the garage door into consideration when doing thiis. Make sure you have concrete that is both thick enough and the proper schedule to secure a lift. This is another good time to look at where you might want a 220 outlet. Take a look at what your city allows. If you're gong to have a sprinkler system think about a convienent place to run the control box. I've thoroughly enjoyed my UCoatIt epoxy floor. It's been there 9 years and still cleans up like new, no failures anywhere. If you're going to do this, do it before cars ever drive on the concrete. These are all things with the exception of solar panels that I did when I built mine and I haven't found myself needing to go back and add other things.
 
I just finished a full custom home and this is what I did for the garage.

Separate storage to keep the clutter out of the garage. I have many bicycles so this is key.
Non-slip porcelain tile flooring.
220 power and storage area for an air compressor.
Power for electric car charger.
Full LED lighting (I used Cree SL-40)
Water outlet next to storage for my DI water filters and pressure washer. (I'm not using this now due to drought restrictions)
Sink with hot water.
Operable windows.

Drains are not allowed in my location, that would be nice.

I should have put in an in-floor lift.

+1 for having a separate utility/storage room.

I'm in the process of building a garage additional right now and these are features I'm incorporating, some right away, some may have to wait a bit.


-In-floor radiant Heat
-Separate room for 80 gal compressor, hydronic floor plumbing/boiler, washer/dryer, laundry sink, 1/2 bath, and storage
-In-floor lift (BendPak SP-7X)
-11' ceilings
-Separate panel in storage room
-Trench drain in front of door
-Hot/Cold Spigot with Deionized water crossover valve
-Wall mounted pressure washer
-Wall mount Master Blaster
-Mini split a/c unit
-2, maybe 3 220v/50amp charging points for electric cars
-Plenty of electrical outlets (still working on layout)
-Epoxy Floors
-Ample lighting, likely using custom T8 florescent fixtures to get to around 100 ft candles of lighting.
-Well insulated
-Pre-wired for TV, sound, and internet.
-TV mounted on back wall with cameras to help line cars up on lift
-Security system
-Multiple air connection points. Still working on where I want them. Looking at getting the Prevost piping & Fittings from Kevin Brown. ;)


Here is what we have laid out now.
 
Holy cow Rasky, that's hard core! Kudos on the compressor room and EV/PIH outlets.

Oh, and just bear in mind any ventilation requirements for the compressor (cooling).
 
Holy cow Rasky, that's hard core! Kudos on the compressor room and EV/PIH outlets.

Oh, and just bear in mind any ventilation requirements for the compressor (cooling).

Thanks, been a lot of red tape and higher then expected costs so far.

I was not aware of any ventilation requirements on the compressor, I'll have to look into that. I do know I have to elevate any gas appliance because the room is attached to a garage, but never heard anything on the compressor. Thanks! ;)
 
And remember those new-fangled garage doors and openers have those keyless entry pads that work on a battery--what happens when that thing goes bad? You gotta go to the dealer and get a new one for $1500--at least that's what I heard. Make sure that entry door works on a key the way garage doors used to--worst idea evar.

Lol um no. Do you believe everything you hear Setec? You are smarter than that. A garage door is different from an opener. I get that statement daily because everyone that doesn't know what they are talking about () thinks they are one in the same. They might be connected to each other, but when you buy one it does not include the other.

A garage door opener from us is around $300 installed for a chain drive and a remote. We also sell ones that have a battery backup for a little extra.

A REMOTE for the opener is something that has a button and a battery that you push and it opens the door. It is only $45, but if the battery dies and you have no other way to get in your house is what I call stupidity. And yes it happens. I had a lady in the office yesterday, she thought her remote lost signal to the opener so we go, free of charge by the way, because she was so upset and we wanted to help. And what was wrong? She forgot to pay her power bill.

Anyway, if someone stops by my shop with a dead battery we replace it for free and it doesn't loose connection to its opener. All the battery is, is a simple 2032 3v battery.

Btw, we still provide key locks for garage doors for you older fellows that aren't use to change.
 
Lol um no. Do you believe everything you hear Setec? You are smarter than that. A garage door is different from an opener. I get that statement daily because everyone that doesn't know what they are talking about () thinks they are one in the same. They might be connected to each other, but when you buy one it does not include the other.

A garage door opener from us is around $300 installed for a chain drive and a remote. We also sell ones that have a battery backup for a little extra.

A REMOTE for the opener is something that has a button and a battery that you push and it opens the door. It is only $45, but if the battery dies and you have no other way to get in your house is what I call stupidity. And yes it happens. I had a lady in the office yesterday, she thought her remote lost signal to the opener so we go, free of charge by the way, because she was so upset and we wanted to help. And what was wrong? She forgot to pay her power bill.

Anyway, if someone stops by my shop with a dead battery we replace it for free and it doesn't loose connection to its opener. All the battery is, is a simple 2032 3v battery.

Btw, we still provide key locks for garage doors for you older fellows that aren't use to change.


SSSSSHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH

(look up)

He was joking :D

I said similar, but more abbreviated.
 
When Obama microchips me, I'm setting this all up so I don't need any keys, codes, or openers. A simple wave of the hand and I'm in. It's gonna be awesome.

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