Bugs and Tar with rinseless?
- Thread starter dfoxengr
- Start date
Buffautodetail
New member
Basicly, if the rinseless/waterless doesn't cut it I use a little citrus cleaner diluted pretty good. Make sure to reapply wax.
Ron Ketcham
Active member
That follows my thinking, that if some company promotes and markets a "no rinse" it has to be delimone based system (the citric from oranges/lemons,etc).
Not a "hydrocarbon based solvent", however is very effective at breaking down hydrocarbon based deposits.
Like you state, one must reapply any wax or sealant, because any type of solvent that will remove tar, etc deposits, which are hydrocarbon based, is going to take off the sealants and waxes, which are hydrocarbon based.
Not a "hydrocarbon based solvent", however is very effective at breaking down hydrocarbon based deposits.
Like you state, one must reapply any wax or sealant, because any type of solvent that will remove tar, etc deposits, which are hydrocarbon based, is going to take off the sealants and waxes, which are hydrocarbon based.
The Enforcer
New member
Stoner's Tarminator and you'll never use anything else!
Nth Degree
New member
In most cases if a car has significant levels of these issues I say it is not a candidate for a rinseless wash and needs a full decon wash.
For bugs I use Poorboy's Bug Squash @3:1. If that isn't enough to do the job then anything else I use will strip the LSP so I step up to OPC and make sure to replace the LSP. Dealing with localized tar or sap I use Tarminator or 3M Adhesive Remover respectively and replace LSP.
For bugs I use Poorboy's Bug Squash @3:1. If that isn't enough to do the job then anything else I use will strip the LSP so I step up to OPC and make sure to replace the LSP. Dealing with localized tar or sap I use Tarminator or 3M Adhesive Remover respectively and replace LSP.
Accumulator
Well-known member
I'm generally not doing rinseless washes, but I'd think that my usual bug/tar approach would work- Very gentle claying with something like Sonus SFX. Gentle enough that you're only "claying the LSP clean".
Yes, it'll probably trash the clay quickly if you're doing tar. Yes, you can get too aggressive and compromise the LSP or even mar the finish. Yes, you can fail to get all the contamination off and since it's not neutralized it might continue to do damage up to/including etch the paint.
But despite all those caveats, clay is what I use 99.9% of the time and it works fine for me.
Yes, it'll probably trash the clay quickly if you're doing tar. Yes, you can get too aggressive and compromise the LSP or even mar the finish. Yes, you can fail to get all the contamination off and since it's not neutralized it might continue to do damage up to/including etch the paint.
But despite all those caveats, clay is what I use 99.9% of the time and it works fine for me.
David Fermani
Forza Auto Salon
I don't think it really matters how you do it, but you 1st need to remove the topical dirt from the surface prior to removing bugs, tar and sap. A low water wash will certainly work to achieve this, but like any other wash method will not remove tar and sap (bugs maybe depending on other factors) and will need a dedicated process/product.