Bug Season Again Everyone!

Streaking will happen because of two things:



1.) Your using too much, try not to use a soaking wet rag to apply it, just leave it wet, do the entire dash and but the time your done the rest will be soaked in and the next layer will soak into the dash really nice and even. It happended to me this past weekend, I thought I would just use alot, well I had wet spots, dry spots and streaking, it's a pain but not a big deal to fix at all. Just re-apply.



2.) Your surface is not clean. I was layering the product on my cars plastic since I got it and never thought to clean it, it looked clean so I just went with the flow, it was a waste of time let me tell you. I cleaned the dash with really dawn and water, used a pure water soaked rag (not dripping wet) to soak up the soap and let it air dry then I applied the 303. Jeepers creepers, it made a huge difference.
 
Although i like and use the BM stuff, it DOES streak a lot IMO. ON my BMW dash not bad. On my Acura dash (which is smooth), it streaks and takes a few passes/buffs to get nice and even.



WHat would be lovely would be a water based PDMS dressing that spreads as easily as something like Meguiar's #40. Of course the greasier dressings are going to spread easier, though, but I want to try 303 (as soon as my BM runs out) to see if it applies more evenly with less elbow grease.



And, what is all this talk about watered down products? I guess Klasse is just watered down Zaino, huh? (uh oh...I didnt say that! I better put the flamesuit on!!) ;)



Just because one product POTENTIALLY has less resin than another does not make it watered down. Watered down is me taking 303 and adding a cup of dihydrogen oxide to it.
 
<blockquote class='ipsBlockquote' >

<em class='bbc'>Originally posted by Yell00ITR [/i]
<strong class='bbc'>And, what is all this talk about watered down products? I guess Klasse is just watered down Zaino, huh? (uh oh...I didnt say that! I better put the flamesuit on!!) ;)[/b]</blockquote>
Listen you jerk, you don't know anything!!! Klasse is WAY better than Zaino, all my friends said so and you don't know anything you fool, your just biased towards Klasse becauses it so good.

I just said what 10000000 stupid posts would repeat over and over and over and .......... OVER again. :rolleyes:
 
I found that watered down Zaino comment to be not only ignorant but in poor taste.

My reasoning was as follows:

1) The main functional ingredients of a PDMS dressing are (a) PDMS resin and (b) solvent (water or similar)

2) The main determinant of shine and most likely UV protection of a PDMS protectant is the concentration of PDMS resin to solvent. (Also is most likely a major determinant in price)

3) PDMS resin used in these similar types of protectants is essentially the same -- particle size may differ but the end product is the same stuff.

4) It therefore follows that if one product is (a) less glossy, (b) less white (lower solute content) and (c) less expensive, this product contains <strong class='bbc'>less[/b] PDMS resin as compared to a whiter, more expensive (weak argument) and glossier protectant.

Assuming #4, is it not a valid (albeit choppy) argument to say that product #1 is a weaker solution, and thus basically the same result of adding more solvent ("water") to product B or weakening the mixture in some other manner?
 
'puter, I agree mostly. But I really do think that what makes and breaks a lot of these dressings are the other ingredients....whether it be cleaners, scents, etc. These extras probably affect whether the go on easier, spread evenly, streak less, etc.



As far as the resins go, I buy your arguements....not that you're arguementative, or that there's anything wrong with that.. :)
 
Actually Puterbum, you may very well have a point there.....



According to Ron Ketcham, all the water borne PDMS dressings are basic, just different resin content. The only difference being that the cheap ones will have a lower resin content (around 18%) and the more expensive ones will have more resin (around 30%). You will get into differences when you start talking about solvent borne PDMS dressings which have cleaning ability and are used for exterior trim. However, right now we are only talking about water borne PDMS dressing which are used for the interior and tires and they are all essentially the same....just different resin concentration.
 
The only places that I got streaking on BM is the part that I didn't apply it too. It probably differs on each dash, but as I always mention when people apply it for the first time, put a GOOD coat and basically paint it on (wet it down). It make look like a lot but it dries even cause you've covered each spot. Use a foam brush applicator (like for applying stain or paint) and paint a good coat on dashes, and for buttons and other smoother plastic don't use so much.
 
<blockquote class='ipsBlockquote' >

<em class='bbc'>Originally posted by puterbum [/i]
<strong class='bbc'>I found that watered down Zaino comment to be not only ignorant but in poor taste.

[/b]</blockquote>
Wow, you really have to lighten up. Even with a smiley you still didn't get it. Guess you are just a little too sensitive on this topic.

Bottom line guys, relax. This is a detailing forum, and frankly, most of the "facts" in this thread are nothing but "well, I heard this and I heard that so it must equal this".

To address the original issue, it is likely that ALL water based PDMS resin products will smear on certain materials. If one doesnt work for you, try another. What is the controversy in that?
 
Take it easy Puterbum, your so young to blow an o-ring and leak fluids all over the floor. Taking the comment to heart like that would put you on their level.
 
Living in Florida, we are no stranger to bugs. We have everything here from Love Bugs ( the worse ) with battery-acid bodies to cruise-missile sized Palmetto Bugs. Please don't use those mesh-covered bug sponges sold at department stores. They can mar or haze clear coat finishes making an already messy situation worse.

The number one tool in anyone's arsenal against bug grime should be this honeycomb sponge. Called the Safe Scrub Bug & Tar Sponge, this remarkable product quickly and safely removes the toughest bug grime and tar residues, without marring the finish!

To remove insect smear, simply dip the sponge in a bucket of soapy water (use a car wash shampoo, not a dish-washing soap), scrub away residues and rinse. The car wash shampoo will act as a lubricant. Safe Scrubs can be used on glass, chrome, vinyl, fiberglass, paint and clear coat finishes, without scratching or hazing the finish.

Word of caution! Do not use the sponge dry folks!

Rinse the surface, wipe dry and reapply your favorite wax or sealant. The Safe Scrub will remove existing wax or sealant.

Use it my favorite other product, 1Z einszett Anti-Insekt + Pre-Cleaner!
Its special formula breaks up acidic insect bodies so they can be safely washed away. Insects produce acids as they decompose that will eat into automotive paint, leaving permanent etchings.



http://classic-motoring.stores.yahoo.net/saf-scrub.html

http://classic-motoring.stores.yahoo.net/eianpr.html
 
I'll add one more use I discovered today - it works quite well at removing brake dust off my chrome-clad plastic wheel covers found on Ford trucks. Yep, some P21S and the bug scrubber after about 15 minutes and I have almost new looking wheels. I'll double check them in the AM, but the difference is quite surprising when I thought there was no way to remove all the baked on dust.

-grungy-
 
These sponges work great plus they are inexpensive and you can also cut them up into peices ,thats what I do for using them on wheels.

But they also hold more soap if you dont cut them.
 
i just used the sponge for the first time. about 10 minutes of scrubbing per door/bumper of my mid-compact car (roughly an hour with the sponge), it got about 75% of the bug and tar. i supposed i should use it with tarminator or the 1z pre cleaner. the sponge looks like it would rip a tear in the fabric of space/time but used as directed there was nary a scratch. i'm sure it has stripped whatever the sealant was left on my car at the time but i did not have the time or daylight to reapply anything.

the best way to take care of bugs or tar is to have a hood deflector, clear bra, or leather/synthetic bra in the 1st place:doh:. perhaps i should head my own advice and fix my dang hood deflector
 
meGrimlock said:
the best way to take care of bugs or tar is to have a hood deflector, clear bra, or leather/synthetic bra in the 1st place:doh:. perhaps i should head my own advice and fix my dang hood deflector
Click to expand...

Those love bugs will still etch a clear bra--at least they did to mine. Can you use that sponge on a clear bra as well?
 
i suspect you could use the sponge on a clear bra. high quality vinyl protectors can hold up to quite a lot of abuse. i'd make sure with the installer/mfg of the clear bra. i should also clarify that w/o the sponge i'd only be able to get roughly 25-50% of the tar and bugs all over my car with those other bug sponges.
 
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