Buffing Polishing process
- Thread starter RyansAutoDetail
- Start date
GearHead_1
Long Time Member
It would be fine if you put a topper over it.
My reply will probably stir up some controversy, but I think using a glaze is a waste of time, effort and money.
I have not used Black Hole or White Diamond, but I have used several others and don't bother with them anymore.
A good polish, a good paint cleaner/prep, a good LSP and you should be good to go.
Many of today's AIO products can do all of that in one step. Optimum Poli-Seal and Poorboy's Polish with Sealant are two that come to mind. I still feel more comfortable using a LSP after the AIO product.
I'm getting confused with the different "LSP's" and "AIO's" I know what they stand for.. but in what sequence do you use them? Like I said above, I will be removing the swirls from my truck. And I will be using the SSR's, what exactly should I use before and after the SSR's? I know wash, clay, ssr's, then what comes next? I'm so confused. lol :huh:
Troy@Protekt
a.k.a. Troy@DetailCity
I'm getting confused with the different "LSP's" and "AIO's" I know what they stand for.. but in what sequence do you use them? Like I said above, I will be removing the swirls from my truck. And I will be using the SSR's, what exactly should I use before and after the SSR's? I know wash, clay, ssr's, then what comes next? I'm so confused. lol :huh:
Typically you would use an LSP(sealant or wax) after the SSR's(swirl removers). I personally don't like using glazes because I believe they compromise how well your LSP will perform. To me a glaze is an alternative to an LSP as a "shine and hide" type product that has a very short life.
Another common practice is to use a sealant and then top it with a carnauba. This is something I would not recommend on a daily driver in hot climates but works well for garage queens and show cars.
Troy@Protekt
a.k.a. Troy@DetailCity
I don't like using natural waxes on daily drivers in hot climates because their melting point is too low. When they melt they allow contaminants to get caught on the surface of the car.
Bunky
Detailing Gnosis
Troy, do you consider something like Collinite as one of these? It has the reputation of being very long lasting.
Troy@Protekt
a.k.a. Troy@DetailCity
I used to use carnaubas for my detailing and I would notice that they had a tendancy to be oily to the touch the hotter the surface got. I could feel the wax transfer to my finger which I attributed to the carnauba softening (melting). This caused contamination to build quicker. This has been my experience which may not be the case with all carnauba waxes.
GearHead_1
Long Time Member
Maximum application thickness should be limited to 1/2".
RyansAutoDetail
Weekend Warrior
ok so i am considering the previous suggestions as per the above ..
so far i understand glazes have a very limited purpose as far as usage and durability goes
i also realize SSR 2.5 is suggested to be prior to SSR1 last in polishing and paint reconditioning, my question is after the SSR1, you can go to your final LSP such as NXT 2.0 ? correct ?
in what i am understanding if i were to do a full exterior only detail including polish and LSP the method would be as follows:
rinse
wash
dry
clay
SSR 2.5 w/cutting pad
SSR 1 w/ finishing pad *****could i substitute in a regular paint polish in this place prior to an LSP?
LSP such as Mothers Liquid Wax or Megs NXT 2.0
so far i understand glazes have a very limited purpose as far as usage and durability goes
i also realize SSR 2.5 is suggested to be prior to SSR1 last in polishing and paint reconditioning, my question is after the SSR1, you can go to your final LSP such as NXT 2.0 ? correct ?
in what i am understanding if i were to do a full exterior only detail including polish and LSP the method would be as follows:
rinse
wash
dry
clay
SSR 2.5 w/cutting pad
SSR 1 w/ finishing pad *****could i substitute in a regular paint polish in this place prior to an LSP?
LSP such as Mothers Liquid Wax or Megs NXT 2.0
Redwings97
New member
What I do after SSR1 is the LSP - PB's EXP or EX. I would assume you could use in place of SSR1 - PB's pro polish or PWC which are paint cleaners and then go to your LSP...
Personally, I would use a polishing pad rather than a cutting pad for the 2.5
I also think the SSR 1 would do a much better job with a polishing pad rather than a finishing pad.
RyansAutoDetail
Weekend Warrior
ok so i need
two polishing pads
ssr 2.5 + ssr 1
some LSPs of choice
anything else ?
and when would one use a cutting/buff etc pad vs polishing pad, as well as finishing pad vs finessing pad ? ?
elk42
South Jersey Spartan
How's this order wash, clay, wash, p21s cleansing lotion, ssr1, klasse aio, klasse sg, p21s 100% wax.
Where in there does the Black hole glaze come in? is it necessary if im using the klasse sg? is the lotion in the correct spot of the batting order? Should i use the glaze after the wax because of the breakdown coming sooner than later? thanks. Beemerboy, where are you my friend?
Where in there does the Black hole glaze come in? is it necessary if im using the klasse sg? is the lotion in the correct spot of the batting order? Should i use the glaze after the wax because of the breakdown coming sooner than later? thanks. Beemerboy, where are you my friend?
GearHead_1
Long Time Member
I'm no Beemer (he's great) and I'm sure he'll be along soon. Your process is very thorough though it may be a tad redundant. You may not need the AIO after SSR1. Depending upon the severity of the finish you may need a more abrasive polish or be able to skip the SSR1 and just use the chemical polish (AIO). The Black Hole comes in pre-LSP, As you have listed it pre-21S or even pre-sealant. You may not need the wax if you're happy with the sealant or you may skip the sealant and go straight to wax. I would probably throw the second wash out altogether if you're going to a cleansing lotion.