Brake questions

JaredPointer

JaredPointer

COME AT ME BRO
Have any of you guys ordered brakes online? If so, from where?

I'm looking to do (at least) the front brakes on my Tundra at the next oil change. I've got some slight vibration when stopping (more noticeable at times than others) and am pretty sure it's the rotors warping (which seems to be a common problem with this truck @ 6K pounds). Seems that the fix is getting something other than the OEM rotors and pads.

I'm interested in getting some sort of performance enhancing rotor (slotted/dimpled/drilled/etc) and a better pad as well. I do some hauling, mostly my boat - an 18 foot fiberglass job with no trailer brakes. I'm looking for suggestions for rotors and pads, and while I understand you get what you pay for but I am NOT interested in buying racetrack setups or anything like that. I drive pretty much like a grandpa these days and just want something to help out with the rotor warping issue and towing my boat.

Okay, let 'er rip.
 
I may not be much help as I ordered oem rotors with upgraded pads, but I did order online. I bought new take off oem rotors at www.newtakeoffs.com and then I ordered hawk ceramic brake pads designed for street use (ultra low dust and noise with an extended wear interval) from summitracing.com (despite the name they sell all kinds of parts). This was for a 2007 Mustang GT.
 
my Sequoia came with slotted and drilled and I had a couple brief moments of what I thought was warped brakes at 8K and it really was the anti-lock brakes :hmmm: ... make sure it happens on smooth roads too and all the time before replacing the rotors .... if they are warped then spend the extra bucks on the Slotted and drilled ;)
 
Pretty sure it's the rotors, as I'm getting the vibrating/shake up to the steering wheel like I'd expect. It doesn't happen all the time, usually only noticeable when I've got a load like the boat or am coming to a heavy stop (down a hill, etc). From what I've read, that's the first sign of the rotors being warped.

The anti-lock has kicked on twice (people pulling directly out in front of me - in a big-a$$ blue truck) and it's definitely not the ABS. I dunno about the Sequoias, but you can definitely hear it kicking in on my truck.

Did you buy the Sequoia new? Who put on the rotors (port option, TRD option, etc)? Just curious.
 
Poorboy said:
my Sequoia came with slotted and drilled and I had a couple brief moments of what I thought was warped brakes at 8K and it really was the anti-lock brakes :hmmm: ... make sure it happens on smooth roads too and all the time before replacing the rotors .... if they are warped then spend the extra bucks on the Slotted and drilled ;)
Click to expand...

The Sequoia didn't come with slotted and drilled idk what hes talking about :huh:

But he did put them on his Tahoe

And I put them on my truck and absolutly love them :yay

http://www.detailcity.org/forums/off-topic-forum/27993-rotor-change-my-truck.html

Heres where I got them from good price lifetime warranty Brake Performance
 
On most every vehicle I have owned, I have had to turn the rotors to eliminate the issues every 40k or so. I usually get new ones (just OEM ones) on the second time.

There is a local guy that does it for like $15 total and it does not take that much time to remove them.

Improperly torquing the wheels can cause warping....
 
JaredPointer said:
Pretty sure it's the rotors, as I'm getting the vibrating/shake up to the steering wheel like I'd expect. It doesn't happen all the time, usually only noticeable when I've got a load like the boat or am coming to a heavy stop (down a hill, etc). From what I've read, that's the first sign of the rotors being warped.

The anti-lock has kicked on twice (people pulling directly out in front of me - in a big-a$$ blue truck) and it's definitely not the ABS. I dunno about the Sequoias, but you can definitely hear it kicking in on my truck.

Did you buy the Sequoia new? Who put on the rotors (port option, TRD option, etc)? Just curious.
Click to expand...


ok I'm :crazy: ... those we on my Hoe :wall .. Sequoia was bought new and I did get the vibration on fast braking on a not so smooth road at highway speeds, but have been doing normal driving for a couple weeks since and no sign of vibration again :passout:
 
Just lately replaced the pads and rotors on the wife's Mountaineer and the daughters Mazda six. With the advise from a few members on a couple of other forums , I went with the Wagner Thermo Quiet pads and lifetime limited rotors. They weren't cheap but I think they were well worth the money.These things should come as standard equipment on new vehicles. No dusting and no brake squeal. They require no gel or gasket on the backside of the pads. At first I was cautious that what was being said about these pads was just a lot of hype but its great to look down at the wheels and not see that black powdered mess :). The wife and daughter both are bad about riding the brakes . Now looking foward to putting a set on the Super Duty 4x4 and the Firebird.
 
I just did this a few months ago. I bought from Brake Performance.com: Brake Performance
Very good deals compared to other sites I researched. I was Leery at first because it seemed to go to be true.

I bought slotted and dimpled rotors and ceramic pads for the Jaguar. The mechanic I had install them said he thought the rotors were very good quality.

Check out my post here
 
Checked out your post, thanks.

Brings me to the question of what is the difference between drilled and dimpled? Which is "better?"
 
JaredPointer said:
Checked out your post, thanks.

Brings me to the question of what is the difference between drilled and dimpled? Which is "better?"
Click to expand...

Well the theory behind the dimpled rotors is that it doesn't compromise the metal at all by going all the way through it, yet gives a place for heat and gases to go while adding another cutting edge.

Mine are still kicking strong and I drive HARD barely a lip at the edge of the rotor.

Heres how I drive:

Me -----> :drive: :yikes: <------- Steve
Me ----->:hotrod2: :pray: <------- Steve
Me -----> :winner: :vomit: <------- Steve

Haha :buddies
 
The slotted and dimpled rotors also have the lifetime warranty against warping while the others do not.
 
Pockets that is too funny!

I agree with what he said regarding the dimpled vs. drilled. The drilled is a higher risk of cracking.
 
Avoid the cheap made in China rotors they are junk.

I have the HAWK HPS pads on my Corvette they provide 30 percent better braking than standard pads but they dust bad.

The average person don't use brakes as hard as they think because everyone will brag on ceramic pads but the best thing about them is they do not dust.

A ceramic pad has a poor friction coefficient compared to something like the Hawk HPS so you must compromise the braking or put up with dust.

I know that some will say I'm wrong about this and all I can say is if you think ceramic is a great brake you have never driven a vehicle that had great brakes.

That said most people will be happy with ceramic and it will provide all the braking they need but not close to being the ultimate in braking.
 
Just a question for you guys on brake pads. In the VW crowd, the EBC Green Stuff brake pad products get a lot of conversation (and use). How are these products perceived outside of that group?
 
Mr. Clean said:
Just a question for you guys on brake pads. In the VW crowd, the EBC Green Stuff brake pad products get a lot of conversation (and use). How are these products perceived outside of that group?
Click to expand...
I have never used green stuff but a lot of people seem to like them.
Tire Rack sold them along with several other brands of high performance brake pads and rotors but they dropped the EBC from their line of products.

Some don't know it but Tire Rack sells Brakes as well as tires.
 
Pockets said:
Well the theory behind the dimpled rotors is that it doesn't compromise the metal at all by going all the way through it, yet gives a place for heat and gases to go while adding another cutting edge.

Mine are still kicking strong and I drive HARD barely a lip at the edge of the rotor.

Heres how I drive:

Me -----> :drive: :yikes: <------- Steve
Me ----->:hotrod2: :pray: <------- Steve
Me -----> :winner: :vomit: <------- Steve

Haha :buddies
Click to expand...


:rofl:rofl:lmfao:lmfao:wow::crazy2: now thats funny right their...

As most have said the rotors warp because of heat, drilled and slotted are aiding in the kooling process. The reason most fade occures in brakes at high speeds is they again get "hot" they need cooling. Most hp cars come with the upgraded rotors already from the factory. Trucks in most cases "dont" but in fact "should" because of extra weight and towing situations where breaking is a huge factor. And as many have already said the ceramic pads are nice as far as reduced dusting...

To answer you question on internet orders I have not done that sorry. I have in fact had good luck with local shops ordering things for me in this regard. I dont like the net for everything, when a local guy orders and its wrong I do have a option to return the item and its on him in most cases if they send the wrong part.
 
black bart said:
Avoid the cheap made in China rotors they are junk.

I have the HAWK HPS pads on my Corvette they provide 30 percent better braking than standard pads but they dust bad.

The average person don't use brakes as hard as they think because everyone will brag on ceramic pads but the best thing about them is they do not dust.

A ceramic pad has a poor friction coefficient compared to something like the Hawk HPS so you must compromise the braking or put up with dust.

I know that some will say I'm wrong about this and all I can say is if you think ceramic is a great brake you have never driven a vehicle that had great brakes.

That said most people will be happy with ceramic and it will provide all the braking they need but not close to being the ultimate in braking.
Click to expand...

My ceramic pads still dust like a mother :huh: what gives :confused:
 
I bought my brake upgrade for my Corvette on-line but they only sell Corvette stuff so I have not bought anything for OEM style brakes other than OEM for my DD.

When I upgraded the vette I installed rotors that were much larger in diameter and much thicker. I also replaced the 2 piston caliper with a 6 piston caliper

It cost about $3500.00 for the kit but they are awesome.
Changing the rotors required that I install different wheels to clear the big rotors and buy new tires $2500.00 for wheels and $330.00 a piece for the G Force tires made for a expensive brake job over $7500.00 total.

Hawk HPS pads would be great for pulling the boat but be forewarned they will dust far more than OEM but any pad that out performs OEM will dust more you can't have your cake and eat it too.
 
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