Brace yourselves, I'm a confused newb who has no idea what to do next! Wet sanded...

C

Canuckguy

New member
Ok I've been going through a lot of threads trying to figure out what to do next. I'll start off by saying what I've done so far, and then I have a couple questions about what polisher I require, etc.



I'm doing the rear bumper of my 2010 Ford Focus, it got a ton of deep scratching from a faulty bike mounting job. (Pedal scratched the bumper tons)



I did all the sanding, filler/primer, painting, clear coating using Dupli-Color acrylic spray paint. (I don't have an air compressor to do it with a professional paint gun, and live in a condo)



Anyways, so I completed the many layers of clear coat, and wet sanded using 2000 grit 3m wet/dry sandpaper.



Now I am stuck, I read on the dupli-color forum that I should just use a polishing compound with a cheap orbital buffer, wait a week, and use a wax. That seems, after reading this forum, that it requires more work than that.



I don't want to buy a cheap Simoniz random orbital, because I've read in several threads that they are useless for any sort of cutting into the clear coat to get that perfect finish.



Should I buy a Porter Cable 6" 7424XP DA or should I buy a DeWALT Cable 7-in. Variable-Speed Polisher that isn't random orbital..? I am under the impression that the random orbital Porter Cable polisher won't gain enough heat to properly cut the clearcoat to get a great finish, and that I should get the DeWalt and learn to use it instead.



Basically I'm at a smooth finish but obviously because I wet sanded the clear coat, its all hazy and there's a few spots that could use some light cutting for perfection. So do I go with the DeWalt or stick to the Porter Cable random orbital which has a less chance of burning through? Will the Porter Cable do the job enough? It doesn't need to be showroom quality considering its just a Ford Focus but I'd like to try and get it to match the finish of the rest of the car.



Also, what brand and types of polishing pads/bonnets should I get to do this? And what's a good polishing compound for the job?



Thanks guys!!!! :happy:
 
PS. I love this quote......



Quote: Originally Posted by SuperBee364

*Nothing* is idiot proof; every time they make something idiot proof, someone builds a better idiot. :usa
 
I have Meguiar's Ultimate Compound, Ultimate Polish, and NXT Generation™ Tech Wax™ 2.0 Protection, will that do the trick?
 
My advice is you need to do some more research. The paint does not "melt" as you stated. that statement alone tells me you have no idea what you are doing. I definitely would not get a DeWalt. Not trying to be mean but with no experience you would prob burn through that Duplicolor paint in about 2 seconds. The 7424XP is more than sufficient for what you need and you have MUCH less of a chance on burning through. I'd get a scrap fender or something to practice on first or you may end up ruining all the work you already have into the bumper.



In fact I would try rubbing it out by hand first, as IME that Duplicolor paint stays kind of soft for quite a while and 2000 grit scratches should be fairly easy to remove. You may be able to get away with using the Ultimate Compound by hand, but I've never used the UC so I can't say for sure. If all you are doing is the bumper this may be a better route rather than spending the money on a polisher you would only use once.



Again, I know you're a newb so don't take offense to my first statements, just stressing the fact you should do some more research before you jump into hitting that bumper with a machine.
 
My suggestion, Canuckguy?

Find a professional detailer or bodyshop who can help you out.



The amount of money you will spend on equipment and chemicals need to "fix" your problem will be more than if you took it to them in the first place. That is, unless you plan on becoming a professional detailer.



I am not trying to "bust your bubble", but lack of experience and proper tools most often times leads to a project looking like a "do-it-yourself" job. If you can live with how your bumper looks, well then, you've gained some experience.



Here's another suggestion:

If you have a technical school/college in your area that teaches car body repair and painting, take it there. They might give you some ideas on how to fix it, plus they have the equipment and chemicals needed to resolve your problem, and it might only cost the price of the materials used in fixing your bumber scratches. They may even let you watch students do the work, although I doubt it due to insurance and safety concerns.
 
I agree 100% with what ExplicitDetails said. You can't melt paint and a rotary on a bumper is bad news, even for a pro. Plastic does not transfer heat well, you can and will burn paint very easily. Get the PC and a variety of 4" pads. You have UC and UP, those will work great.
 
Your on the right track, and even though you won't be able to make the repair invisible you will be able to make it much less noticable. It sounds like you took your time and did the paint work properly, now just keep playing with it and polish it out with the PC. It will look much better than it does now! Best of luck.
 
Thanks everyone! I'll give the PC a try after plenty of reading and video watching. I completely removed the deep scratches with the filler/primer so that's no problem, the bumper looks perfect except for the fact that its dulled by the wet sanding. But its got about 8 coatings of clear coat on it haha so I should have some room for error but not much. As for the local school, I believe the college nearby has a body shop, so if worse comes to worse I can always go there. I would like to get into detailing as a hobby so I don't mind spending the money on the PC and the proper chemicals. And I'll try it out on someones car in the underground parking lot first......just kidding I'll go to a wreck-yard and ask if I can practice for 10$ to plug it in and play around on a junker.



PS. By melting, I meant with a Dewalt I read it heats up the paint and actually makes it softer and sort of melts it into the scratches, I guess I read that wrong.:madgrin:
 
Canuckguy said:
PS. By melting, I meant with a Dewalt I read it heats up the paint and actually makes it softer and sort of melts it into the scratches, I guess I read that wrong.:madgrin:
Click to expand...



You probably read it correctly but whoever wrote it had no clue what they were talking about or were very misinformed. The paint does heat up some but it does not melt. Get it too hot and it burns, but there is no such thing as the scratches melting away. What happens is compound removes the paint until the paint surrounding the scratch becomes level with the bottom of the scratch, thereby "removing" the scratch.



Just keep reading on this forum, you will learn. Be careful where you get your info so you don't read any more false info such as paint melting. You shouldn't have a problem with that if stay with this forum.



Best of luck.
 
Lonnie said:
My suggestion, Canuckguy?

Find a professional detailer or bodyshop who can help you out.



The amount of money you will spend on equipment and chemicals need to "fix" your problem will be more than if you took it to them in the first place. That is, unless you plan on becoming a professional detailer.



I am not trying to "bust your bubble", but lack of experience and proper tools most often times leads to a project looking like a "do-it-yourself" job. If you can live with how your bumper looks, well then, you've gained some experience.
Click to expand...



I'm too stubborn to give up and pay someone else, this is my new hobby and only death will stop me now! :buffing: I'll practice on one of my rear side panels that are metal, its got a dent so I can practice polishing some paint on it and if I screw up its ok because I have to fill the dent eventually anyways. Plus, if I learn to properly detail, I can save thousands over the years....I spent thousands on my old Mustang Shelby every time I got a dent or a scratch, I'm done paying other people. I'm determined to learn this and maybe I'll run a detailing business some day...if the whole Computer Engineering degree thing doesn't work out.:smash:
 
ExplicitDetails said:
You probably read it correctly but whoever wrote it had no clue what they were talking about or were very misinformed. The paint does heat up some but it does not melt. Get it too hot and it burns, but there is no such thing as the scratches melting away. What happens is compound removes the paint until the paint surrounding the scratch becomes level with the bottom of the scratch, thereby "removing" the scratch.



Just keep reading on this forum, you will learn. Be careful where you get your info so you don't read any more false info such as paint melting. You shouldn't have a problem with that if stay with this forum.



Best of luck.
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Thanks man, you guys are the best. I look forward to reading and learning here, it's incredibly helpful to have so many experienced guys in one place. If only the government was as well organized and intelligent as this forum....we'd have that whole economy polished up to perfection by now.:rockon1:
 
Canuckguy- I'd sure be careful with that rotary polisher :nervous:



Note that you might still need a PC to remove rotary-induced holograms.



To be honest, that guy at the store was wrong about machines like the PC being unsuitable for paint correction and IMO that sale benefited his shop a lot more than it benefited you. I have rotary polishers and basically never use them any more, preferring to do the work with random orbital/dual action polishers... including taking out sanding scratches (and I generally work on really hard paint too).



Sure hope you don't end up posting back with "I got this rotary polisher and I think I messed up my paint..." You sure wouldn't be the first person it happened to.
 
JohnKleven said:
That paint is not catalyzed, and will not be polishable.





John
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Huh?





Also, Accumulator you think I should take it all back? Am I making a big mistake using a rotary on 3M 2000 grit wet sanded dupli-color clear coat?



Should I just buy that PC DA online for $150 cnd and use the meguiar Ultimate Compound? Or do I not use a polishing compound at all like John just suggested since my paint isnt catalyzed?



Also, which pads should I get? eshine canada offers a deal on a 5" backplating and 3 pads. I have to choose the pads though, should I get orange white and black pads? eShine Canada: 1.Porter Cable 7424XP Swirl Buster Kit 5.5" Pads
 
JohnKleven said:
That paint is not catalyzed, and will not be polishable.





John
Click to expand...



Yer right, its a clear coat lacquer that hasn't been catalyzed, so all I need is buffing compound, it can't be polished haha.:smash:



Is that correct? I'm so confused now......
 
Accumulator said:
Canuckguy- I'd sure be careful with that rotary polisher :nervous:



Note that you might still need a PC to remove rotary-induced holograms.



To be honest, that guy at the store was wrong about machines like the PC being unsuitable for paint correction and IMO that sale benefited his shop a lot more than it benefited you. I have rotary polishers and basically never use them any more, preferring to do the work with random orbital/dual action polishers... including taking out sanding scratches (and I generally work on really hard paint too).



Sure hope you don't end up posting back with "I got this rotary polisher and I think I messed up my paint..." You sure wouldn't be the first person it happened to.
Click to expand...



I took it all back and got my 200$ back. I think I had enough Norton LiquidIce to polish 20 cars. :tongue2:



So I'm stuck......John said because its just perfect-match acrylic spray paint, it can't be polished? So how do I remove the 2000 grit wet sand marks? Should I get the Porter Cable DA and a buffing compound or something? Or should I do a few more layers of clear coat over the wet sanded paint and then use buffing compound? No polishing compound right? Also, what pads should I buy? I'm so lost. I searched lots but couldn't find any posts on how to do the steps AFTER wet sanding fresh paint. They talk about wet sanding, but not what to do to get rid of the sanding marks on fresh acrylic non-catalyzed paint.



Or just take it to a bodyshop and give up like some suggested....
 
If you have paint done at a professional collision center, they will put a catalyst in the clearcoat before spraying, this allows the clearcoat to harden to a much greater level than a lacquer, which NEVER fully cures, and is always somewhat soft. By doing this the paint can stay on the car even with heavy polishing or wetsanding. Unfortunately, aerosol spray paints do not have a catalyst in them, as the can would be no good only a few hours after manufacturing, the paint would be completely dry inside. This will result in a very soft paint, and will likely burn through with a polisher almost immediately. But I say, "What's the worst that could happen"? Try it anyways, with a very light touch, and if you burn through, you've learned your lesson, and find yourself a good body shop. Best of luck.
 
Canucjguy- Glad to hear you took that stuff back, bet it wasn't the most fun thing you've done in a while ;)



If you get a Griot's Garage 6" polisher you should be all set, for life. A PCXP would be an inferior (IMO) but perhaps acceptable substitute. Yeah, you can do whatever you'll ever need to do with machines like that if you use the right pads and products.



Meguiar's MF pads are the hot ticket but I haven't tried mine yet. Products like M105 and Optimum Hyper Compound (considerable milder) and UNO (haven't tried that yet either) work well and require minimal follow-up with a milder product on a milder pad.



I've never used spray-on touchup paint, at least not via spraying (I've sprayed it into a container and brushed it on). I've wetsanded/compounded/polished touchup paint with perfectly fine results. I do let it dry for quite a while before I try to do it though. No, it won't harden up like "better" paints, but it's been perfectly OK IME, if a bit fragile.
 
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